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Tech & Fab
Dual Batterys or High Amp Alternator?
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<blockquote data-quote="Lamar" data-source="post: 1408649" data-attributes="member: 16675"><p>Dear Crah;</p><p>I agree. First chickenwing needs to know that the alternator is picking up the load. If not, then it becomes a guessing game. That's why I suggested that he get his hands on one of those cheezy battery load testers. I understand that they are not digital and that they don't have all of the neat bells & whistles, but for the non-professional testing of charging systems, they are darned tough to beat.</p><p></p><p>I've had mine for decades and it still works as advertised. To check the alternator's output, you simply connect the tester's clamps to the + and - terminals of the battery then check the voltage. After starting the vehicle, check the voltage. It should be in the ALTERNATOR OK band which is 13.6 to 14.5 volts. </p><p></p><p>If the alternator's output is within limits, turn on the accessories one at a time, such as the headlights, then check the meter on the tester. It should not show a drop. If this is so, it means that the alternator has picked up the load. Keep turning on accessories, one at a time and checking the tester's meter after every accessory is turned on. If one or more of the accessories shows a big voltage drop on the tester's meter, that is the problem child and it needs to be addressed. If all accessories are turned on and the alternator output is still within 13.6 to 14.5 volts, the alternator and all accessory circuits are OK. </p><p></p><p>I know it's a low buck method and that a multimeter will do the exact same thing, only a multimeter does not have a battery load test function and it's for only this reason that I use a battery load tester for troubleshooting purposes.</p><p>Your friend;</p><p>LAMAR</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lamar, post: 1408649, member: 16675"] Dear Crah; I agree. First chickenwing needs to know that the alternator is picking up the load. If not, then it becomes a guessing game. That's why I suggested that he get his hands on one of those cheezy battery load testers. I understand that they are not digital and that they don't have all of the neat bells & whistles, but for the non-professional testing of charging systems, they are darned tough to beat. I've had mine for decades and it still works as advertised. To check the alternator's output, you simply connect the tester's clamps to the + and - terminals of the battery then check the voltage. After starting the vehicle, check the voltage. It should be in the ALTERNATOR OK band which is 13.6 to 14.5 volts. If the alternator's output is within limits, turn on the accessories one at a time, such as the headlights, then check the meter on the tester. It should not show a drop. If this is so, it means that the alternator has picked up the load. Keep turning on accessories, one at a time and checking the tester's meter after every accessory is turned on. If one or more of the accessories shows a big voltage drop on the tester's meter, that is the problem child and it needs to be addressed. If all accessories are turned on and the alternator output is still within 13.6 to 14.5 volts, the alternator and all accessory circuits are OK. I know it's a low buck method and that a multimeter will do the exact same thing, only a multimeter does not have a battery load test function and it's for only this reason that I use a battery load tester for troubleshooting purposes. Your friend; LAMAR [/QUOTE]
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