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fj40?
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<blockquote data-quote="64FJ40" data-source="post: 1246257" data-attributes="member: 16057"><p>Yes. </p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Not quite. It's a c-clip rear. Drain oil, pull the inspection cover. (I'm assuming it has a lunchbox locker) Pull the center pin retainer bolt, slide the center pin out. Disassemble locker carefully to avoid losing springs. Bump the axle shafts inward to release the c-clips, then pull them back out a bit so the 3rd member can be removed (or swap the spider gears from the front in and weld it up in place).</p><p> </p><p>IMO, you should definitely replace the outer axle seals at this point. they're cheap, you're already there, and they take about 3 minutes total. Bearings are a judgement call.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p></p><p> </p><p>Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. I martacked the inner axles, swapped on some '83-ish minitruck birfs, knuckles, brakes, steering arms. You have to do some grinding on the knuckle ball to fit the bigger birfs in, but no big deal. You'll probably have to shorten the tie-rod a little bit as well, and get some bushings to fit the stock TREs into the steering arms. </p><p> </p><p>I have no complaints. The only potential issue is that it's a solid non-vented rotor. A much better swap is to use all the stuff from a '78 - '89 Land Cruiser to get vented disks and bigger calipers but that's not as easy to come by on the cheap. Depending on which brake master cylinder he has, it may require some modification (removing residual valve) or the installation of a proportioning valve to keep the front/rear bias under control.</p><p> </p><p>I also did rear disks at the same time. Let me know if he wants more info on that.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="64FJ40, post: 1246257, member: 16057"] Yes. Not quite. It's a c-clip rear. Drain oil, pull the inspection cover. (I'm assuming it has a lunchbox locker) Pull the center pin retainer bolt, slide the center pin out. Disassemble locker carefully to avoid losing springs. Bump the axle shafts inward to release the c-clips, then pull them back out a bit so the 3rd member can be removed (or swap the spider gears from the front in and weld it up in place). IMO, you should definitely replace the outer axle seals at this point. they're cheap, you're already there, and they take about 3 minutes total. Bearings are a judgement call. Yes. Yes. Yes. Yes. I martacked the inner axles, swapped on some '83-ish minitruck birfs, knuckles, brakes, steering arms. You have to do some grinding on the knuckle ball to fit the bigger birfs in, but no big deal. You'll probably have to shorten the tie-rod a little bit as well, and get some bushings to fit the stock TREs into the steering arms. I have no complaints. The only potential issue is that it's a solid non-vented rotor. A much better swap is to use all the stuff from a '78 - '89 Land Cruiser to get vented disks and bigger calipers but that's not as easy to come by on the cheap. Depending on which brake master cylinder he has, it may require some modification (removing residual valve) or the installation of a proportioning valve to keep the front/rear bias under control. I also did rear disks at the same time. Let me know if he wants more info on that. [/QUOTE]
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