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General Discussion
Front Antiwrap set up
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<blockquote data-quote="tallnate" data-source="post: 435090" data-attributes="member: 3217"><p>I did a lot of research first and analyzed the geometry of different designs. I did run the numbers in the 4-link calcualtor and it pretty much came up with exactly what I'd hand calculated. I probably spent the most time sitting on the floor starring at my rig visualizing where and how I wanted the links set.. </p><p></p><p>There's a couple basic main principles I used with my link setup. If you follow these, I can pretty much guarantee you're setup will work right and you'll be happy with it IMHO.</p><p></p><p>The vertical separation of upper and lower links at the axle should be 25% of you're tire diameter.</p><p>The vertical seperation of upper and lower links at you're frame mounts should be half of the separation at the axle meaning 1/8 of your tire diameter.</p><p>Upper links should be level to the ground at ride height and roughly 70% of the length of your lower links from a horizontal perspective. Meaning if your standing directly to the side of your vehicle, the distance from the center of the bolt through the rear heim to the center of the bolt through the front heim should be 70% of the length from center bolt to center bolt of lower links. (This is not a measurement of the link distance, it purely a measurement from a horizontal view on the X axis.)</p><p>Upper triangulation needs to be as close 45 degrees as possible.. meaning if you're standing behind the axle the left upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the left and the right upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the right of the center line.</p><p>Lastly the lower links need to triangulate in from the axle mount to the frame mount. The tricky part here is that the amount of lower link triangulation will define you're vehicles anti squat meaning it's tendency to have or not have body roll in off camber situations. Basically lesser triangulation in the lower links meaning a link that points more towards the frame rail instead of pointing to the center of the vehicle creates more anti squat. More anti squat creates a more stable feeling or stance when your sideways on a hill but the lesser the lowers are triangulated, the more the axle will walk in towards the center of the vehicle as your suspension drops out. I prefer lesser triangulation in my lowers because I like to feel stable and planted. Big Sam came by the shop when I was setting up my rear links and when he saw where I was planning to set my lowers he said yep you're dead on, he mentioned that his main reason for stopping by was to make sure I wasn't planning to triangulate my lowers a whole bunch. My lowers do bump the rocks from time to time but that hasn't bothered me or cause any problems at all. Overall I couldn't be happier with how my setup performs. Here's a few pics of my rear links when I got finished.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tallnate, post: 435090, member: 3217"] I did a lot of research first and analyzed the geometry of different designs. I did run the numbers in the 4-link calcualtor and it pretty much came up with exactly what I'd hand calculated. I probably spent the most time sitting on the floor starring at my rig visualizing where and how I wanted the links set.. There's a couple basic main principles I used with my link setup. If you follow these, I can pretty much guarantee you're setup will work right and you'll be happy with it IMHO. The vertical separation of upper and lower links at the axle should be 25% of you're tire diameter. The vertical seperation of upper and lower links at you're frame mounts should be half of the separation at the axle meaning 1/8 of your tire diameter. Upper links should be level to the ground at ride height and roughly 70% of the length of your lower links from a horizontal perspective. Meaning if your standing directly to the side of your vehicle, the distance from the center of the bolt through the rear heim to the center of the bolt through the front heim should be 70% of the length from center bolt to center bolt of lower links. (This is not a measurement of the link distance, it purely a measurement from a horizontal view on the X axis.) Upper triangulation needs to be as close 45 degrees as possible.. meaning if you're standing behind the axle the left upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the left and the right upper link should angle 22.5 degrees to the right of the center line. Lastly the lower links need to triangulate in from the axle mount to the frame mount. The tricky part here is that the amount of lower link triangulation will define you're vehicles anti squat meaning it's tendency to have or not have body roll in off camber situations. Basically lesser triangulation in the lower links meaning a link that points more towards the frame rail instead of pointing to the center of the vehicle creates more anti squat. More anti squat creates a more stable feeling or stance when your sideways on a hill but the lesser the lowers are triangulated, the more the axle will walk in towards the center of the vehicle as your suspension drops out. I prefer lesser triangulation in my lowers because I like to feel stable and planted. Big Sam came by the shop when I was setting up my rear links and when he saw where I was planning to set my lowers he said yep you're dead on, he mentioned that his main reason for stopping by was to make sure I wasn't planning to triangulate my lowers a whole bunch. My lowers do bump the rocks from time to time but that hasn't bothered me or cause any problems at all. Overall I couldn't be happier with how my setup performs. Here's a few pics of my rear links when I got finished. [/QUOTE]
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