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My Yota/Sammi/Hayabusa build (update on page 2)
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<blockquote data-quote="AW10" data-source="post: 353192" data-attributes="member: 5452"><p><strong>Re: Dopalicious - My Yota/Sammi/Hayabusa build</strong></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>For now I leave it in 1st gear. 2nd gear broke the 1st time I took it out about a year ago before I put the 4 link on it. To make the busa gears strong enough to take the weight you have to get them back cut ( google can explaine what that is better than I can.) You can buy gears already done or send yours off to get them, or you can buy harder metal gears like billet. 1st gear is holding up fine with the new 37s.</p><p><a href="http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Transmission_s/54.htm" target="_blank">http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Transmission_s/54.htm</a></p><p></p><p><strong><em>What is the ratio?</em></strong> - Here is all the gears so you can compute any gear choice you want. Lowest gear possible is 89 : 1</p><p></p><p> </p><p><a href="http://s1287.photobucket.com/user/awitherow10/media/Screenshot_2013-12-04-15-07-26_zps0a89eeb6.png.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/Screenshot_2013-12-04-15-07-26_zps0a89eeb6.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p></p><p><strong><em>Where did you buy the busa engine?</em></strong> - I bought mine off ebay. Its best to find a COMPLETE totaled one so you dont have to buy each part you need seperate ( gas tank, ignition that matches gas tank lock, gague cluster, wiring harness, air box, injectors, bla bla bla. ) After it was all said and done I think I have 3,000 in busa parts. I bought the Generation 1 motor because its way cheaper than the Gen 2. Gen 2 is still what they use in the current models and puts out about 25 more horses ( 200 ). 99-07 = gen 1 08-up = gen 2 ( gen 1 gauge cluster is old looking with yellow numbers. Gen 2 is newer looking with red numbers. )</p><p></p><p></p><p><strong><em> And at that point, assuming it would be some degree of reduction, couldn't you then drive the ps pump off the sprocket to get the RPM'S down a little? PS pumps don't gain anything by being spun fast. They produce output increase until around 1500 rpm and then just start bypassing everything beyond there. So even if you did run the ps pump off a pulley that was affected by gear selection I don't know that it would matter that much on such a fast, hi-revving engine. </em></strong> - You would lose steering if you held in the clutch or put the bike in neutral. It would also be just as hard in my opinion to mount the pulley on the output shaft. We called Howe and they sent us a pulley that would work for the engines RPM range and it works very well.</p><p></p><p><em><strong>What does the engine idle at?</strong></em> - What ever RPM you want it to. There is an adjustment screw on the front of the motor. I was messing with it one day and I stopped at 6,000. Not sure how high it would go but you wouldnt want it above 2k I would think. I think I have mine under 1,000 or so. Not really sure, I just put it as low as it would go and still steer with no lag.</p><p></p><p><em><strong>Would it be possible to lock the bike trans in whatever gear you use and possibly remove the rest of the gears for weight savings?</strong></em>I saw your post about how if you had it to do all over you would build one like JThomas's green one so Ill go a little into the trans and turbo. The end game for me on the trans part is to put a reclues clutch in it to start out with. That way I dont have to mess with a clutch anymore because it will disengage the motor when it falls below a set RPM. I am still looking into how I would do this next part ( going to spend some time and a transmission shop and see if its possible) but after that id try to put an automatic trans in with no torque converter. I know without a built converter you lose power and when you only have 175 you dont want to lose any. Let the clutch do the " stall " that the converter would normally do. If this wouldnt work id look into getting a built converter to minimize power loss and stay normal clutch in the motor. I just need to figure out what gears work in the 5 speed and try to get an auto with similar gear ratios. When you talked about losing the rest of the gears... I know you can buy trans with only 3 gears but your not really talking about a lot of weight loss. Might as well keep the rest of the gears for gear range. If the recluse clutch will work with the auto trans without a torque converter then you could pick say 3rd in the bike motor and have more top end or drop the bike motor down to 1st and get more low end while shifting with the auto trans. It would just give you a lot more gear ratios to have in your pocket without a lot of weight gain. This is something im still playing around with. Ive only drove it once so far so ill learn what gears work well later. For reference I uploaded this video to photobucket... not sure how well it will look but this is in the lowest gear it has. It has PLENTY of creep so you dont have to clutch it when you creep over rocks and still gets some pretty good wheel spin ( 13 mph ). Gets to it fast also. I was just messing around on this hill and felt it start to climb so I gave it some gas. Cant really see the wheels spinning but if you look close you can see some mud getting slung out. ( 1st, 1st, low )</p><p></p><p>( Click image for **** video )</p><p><a href="http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/20131116_145711_zps70817ecf.mp4" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/th_20131116_145711_zps70817ecf.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></a></p><p> <img src="/styles/default/xenforo/smilies2/gayflag.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":gay:" title="Gayflag :gay:" data-shortname=":gay:" /></p><p></p><p>The turbo on the green buggy came off a bugatti car. Not sure why he chose to do this ( I assume it was cheaper ) but he said it put out a little over 200hp at the wheels on a dyno. I thought about doing something like this also in the future so I got to looking into it... WOW the options. You can get a stage 1 that puts out 230hp. stage 2 @ 430hp, or stage 3 @ over 700. They are all expensive. Stage 1 is too much money for the ammount of HP you get out of it. No way yota axles will hold up to a stage 2 maxed out but you could dial the boost down to a more reasonable level so they might hold together. Stage 2 also doesnt require much engine mods. Stage 3..... **** that. Heres one of the more popular companies that makes them. </p><p><a href="http://www.tobefast.com/velocity-hayabusa-stage2-turbo-c-63416-p-1-pr-4279.html" target="_blank">http://www.tobefast.com/velocity-hayabusa-stage2-turbo-c-63416-p-1-pr-4279.html</a></p><p></p><p>If you get too much power to have to upgrade axles then you lose your " light weight " build and have to start going to 1 ton axles... then you might as well have gone V8 because whats another 300 hundred lbs ( no idea how much more a v8 weight. pretty sure the busa in under 200 lbs) when you have V8. As you know thats where the big money start coming in.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AW10, post: 353192, member: 5452"] [b]Re: Dopalicious - My Yota/Sammi/Hayabusa build[/b] For now I leave it in 1st gear. 2nd gear broke the 1st time I took it out about a year ago before I put the 4 link on it. To make the busa gears strong enough to take the weight you have to get them back cut ( google can explaine what that is better than I can.) You can buy gears already done or send yours off to get them, or you can buy harder metal gears like billet. 1st gear is holding up fine with the new 37s. [url=http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Transmission_s/54.htm]http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Transmission_s/54.htm[/url] [b][i]What is the ratio?[/i][/b] - Here is all the gears so you can compute any gear choice you want. Lowest gear possible is 89 : 1 [URL=http://s1287.photobucket.com/user/awitherow10/media/Screenshot_2013-12-04-15-07-26_zps0a89eeb6.png.html][IMG]http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/Screenshot_2013-12-04-15-07-26_zps0a89eeb6.png[/IMG][/URL] [b][i]Where did you buy the busa engine?[/i][/b] - I bought mine off ebay. Its best to find a COMPLETE totaled one so you dont have to buy each part you need seperate ( gas tank, ignition that matches gas tank lock, gague cluster, wiring harness, air box, injectors, bla bla bla. ) After it was all said and done I think I have 3,000 in busa parts. I bought the Generation 1 motor because its way cheaper than the Gen 2. Gen 2 is still what they use in the current models and puts out about 25 more horses ( 200 ). 99-07 = gen 1 08-up = gen 2 ( gen 1 gauge cluster is old looking with yellow numbers. Gen 2 is newer looking with red numbers. ) [b][i] And at that point, assuming it would be some degree of reduction, couldn't you then drive the ps pump off the sprocket to get the RPM'S down a little? PS pumps don't gain anything by being spun fast. They produce output increase until around 1500 rpm and then just start bypassing everything beyond there. So even if you did run the ps pump off a pulley that was affected by gear selection I don't know that it would matter that much on such a fast, hi-revving engine. [/i][/b] - You would lose steering if you held in the clutch or put the bike in neutral. It would also be just as hard in my opinion to mount the pulley on the output shaft. We called Howe and they sent us a pulley that would work for the engines RPM range and it works very well. [i][b]What does the engine idle at?[/b][/i] - What ever RPM you want it to. There is an adjustment screw on the front of the motor. I was messing with it one day and I stopped at 6,000. Not sure how high it would go but you wouldnt want it above 2k I would think. I think I have mine under 1,000 or so. Not really sure, I just put it as low as it would go and still steer with no lag. [i][b]Would it be possible to lock the bike trans in whatever gear you use and possibly remove the rest of the gears for weight savings?[/b][/i]I saw your post about how if you had it to do all over you would build one like JThomas's green one so Ill go a little into the trans and turbo. The end game for me on the trans part is to put a reclues clutch in it to start out with. That way I dont have to mess with a clutch anymore because it will disengage the motor when it falls below a set RPM. I am still looking into how I would do this next part ( going to spend some time and a transmission shop and see if its possible) but after that id try to put an automatic trans in with no torque converter. I know without a built converter you lose power and when you only have 175 you dont want to lose any. Let the clutch do the " stall " that the converter would normally do. If this wouldnt work id look into getting a built converter to minimize power loss and stay normal clutch in the motor. I just need to figure out what gears work in the 5 speed and try to get an auto with similar gear ratios. When you talked about losing the rest of the gears... I know you can buy trans with only 3 gears but your not really talking about a lot of weight loss. Might as well keep the rest of the gears for gear range. If the recluse clutch will work with the auto trans without a torque converter then you could pick say 3rd in the bike motor and have more top end or drop the bike motor down to 1st and get more low end while shifting with the auto trans. It would just give you a lot more gear ratios to have in your pocket without a lot of weight gain. This is something im still playing around with. Ive only drove it once so far so ill learn what gears work well later. For reference I uploaded this video to photobucket... not sure how well it will look but this is in the lowest gear it has. It has PLENTY of creep so you dont have to clutch it when you creep over rocks and still gets some pretty good wheel spin ( 13 mph ). Gets to it fast also. I was just messing around on this hill and felt it start to climb so I gave it some gas. Cant really see the wheels spinning but if you look close you can see some mud getting slung out. ( 1st, 1st, low ) ( Click image for **** video ) [URL=http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/20131116_145711_zps70817ecf.mp4][IMG]http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/a639/awitherow10/th_20131116_145711_zps70817ecf.jpg[/IMG][/URL] :gay: The turbo on the green buggy came off a bugatti car. Not sure why he chose to do this ( I assume it was cheaper ) but he said it put out a little over 200hp at the wheels on a dyno. I thought about doing something like this also in the future so I got to looking into it... WOW the options. You can get a stage 1 that puts out 230hp. stage 2 @ 430hp, or stage 3 @ over 700. They are all expensive. Stage 1 is too much money for the ammount of HP you get out of it. No way yota axles will hold up to a stage 2 maxed out but you could dial the boost down to a more reasonable level so they might hold together. Stage 2 also doesnt require much engine mods. Stage 3..... **** that. Heres one of the more popular companies that makes them. [url=http://www.tobefast.com/velocity-hayabusa-stage2-turbo-c-63416-p-1-pr-4279.html]http://www.tobefast.com/velocity-hayabusa-stage2-turbo-c-63416-p-1-pr-4279.html[/url] If you get too much power to have to upgrade axles then you lose your " light weight " build and have to start going to 1 ton axles... then you might as well have gone V8 because whats another 300 hundred lbs ( no idea how much more a v8 weight. pretty sure the busa in under 200 lbs) when you have V8. As you know thats where the big money start coming in. [/QUOTE]
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