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<blockquote data-quote="ForMud" data-source="post: 685520" data-attributes="member: 12904"><p>You are correct, wire and rebar is to hold the concrete together if it cracks.</p><p>One of the ways to help with cracking is the use of control joints... Saw cut, metal screed, or expansion joints are all used to control where is going to crack, so instead of having a wandering crack it's going be cracked in a straight line.</p><p>Pad prep is another way. Soil compaction is important as is the type of soil your working with. Topsoil is not going to compact while select soil will. I know some guys will mix in some portland cement to the soil, wetten, then compact. </p><p>Then put stone (Ether #57 or crushed concrete ) to help get moisture out from under the pad. This is important up north so it doesn't freeze in the winter.</p><p>The PSI of the concrete will make a big difference too. 3500 and up for pads. 3500 and below for footings and walls.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ForMud, post: 685520, member: 12904"] You are correct, wire and rebar is to hold the concrete together if it cracks. One of the ways to help with cracking is the use of control joints... Saw cut, metal screed, or expansion joints are all used to control where is going to crack, so instead of having a wandering crack it's going be cracked in a straight line. Pad prep is another way. Soil compaction is important as is the type of soil your working with. Topsoil is not going to compact while select soil will. I know some guys will mix in some portland cement to the soil, wetten, then compact. Then put stone (Ether #57 or crushed concrete ) to help get moisture out from under the pad. This is important up north so it doesn't freeze in the winter. The PSI of the concrete will make a big difference too. 3500 and up for pads. 3500 and below for footings and walls. [/QUOTE]
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