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Postal Jeep 79 what axles will work under this ?
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<blockquote data-quote="TreeClimber" data-source="post: 1361432" data-attributes="member: 16101"><p>Except for the 82- 86 CJ, all the CJs (60s thru 1981) are narrow. </p><p>The next wider axles are YJs, TJs, GrandCherokees (ZJs), Cherokees (XJs), Toyota pickups, Scouts, old Broncos, old Land Cruisers (FJs) etc. Each of these conversions has their pros/cons.</p><p> </p><p>Before you buy any axles, you should ask yourself: What do I want to use this for, once I'm done? If it's a street jeep, then buy some YJ axles. YJ axles aren't very strong (but plenty strong for street use) and are often discarded during upgrades. Therefore they are often sold on Craigslist cheap. Since they can often be bought as a set, are relatively new, are narrow enough to fit under a jeep, and are also already set up for leaf springs, it can be argued this is a good choice. The downside, is they are 5 on 4.5 wheel lug, don't have a conventional wheel hub/wheel bearing, and a little weak. Then just get a set of FACTORY take-off wheels (also pretty easy to obtain) and mount your tires. Voila. Yer done. These are typically a Dana 30 / 35 combo.</p><p> </p><p>CJ axles are slightly weaker fronts, slightly stronger rears. CJs used a Dana 30 front / AMC 20 rear (and sometimes a Dana 44 rear) The CJ vintage Dana 30 fronts had less casting in the housing, and was more prone to flex, ergo, breaking things. The AMC 20 rear was a strong housing, with axle tubes that were prone to spinning inside the housing, and a two-piece rear axle shaft. Those shafts were prone to failure. The good news is they shafts were 5 on 5.5 and had conventional wheel hubs and bearings. </p><p> </p><p>Toyota (old pickup) axles are also a nice swap. </p><p> </p><p>As with all of these configurations, plenty of aftermarket parts/pieces are available for you to polish these turds (smaller-type axles).</p><p> </p><p>But before you start: WHY are you building this? If you're building it for a wheeler, you might consider stopping, and starting with something else. These bodies are HEAVY, top heavy, bulky (too bulky to fit many of our trail systems) and require major modifications to convert to 4x4. Since you're asking relatively easy questions (like, ummmm, what axles to use?), it can be assumed that you're relatively new to doing major re-configures. If I were you (and I ain't), I'd start with a YJ. </p><p> </p><p>However I'm not you, so when I build my rigs, I bought a YJ, and a TJ wrangler. The YJ, I converted the axles to Scout Dana 44s front and rear. They are much stronger than the Dana 30/35 combo, come in 5 on 5.5, have bigger bearings, wheel hubs, and had plenty of aftermarket parts available (I chose chromoly shafts, CTM u-joints, Detroit Lockers). These shafts served me reliably until I upgraded to Dana 60s.</p><p> </p><p>Good luck with you build, whatever you choose.</p><p>Tony</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TreeClimber, post: 1361432, member: 16101"] Except for the 82- 86 CJ, all the CJs (60s thru 1981) are narrow. The next wider axles are YJs, TJs, GrandCherokees (ZJs), Cherokees (XJs), Toyota pickups, Scouts, old Broncos, old Land Cruisers (FJs) etc. Each of these conversions has their pros/cons. Before you buy any axles, you should ask yourself: What do I want to use this for, once I'm done? If it's a street jeep, then buy some YJ axles. YJ axles aren't very strong (but plenty strong for street use) and are often discarded during upgrades. Therefore they are often sold on Craigslist cheap. Since they can often be bought as a set, are relatively new, are narrow enough to fit under a jeep, and are also already set up for leaf springs, it can be argued this is a good choice. The downside, is they are 5 on 4.5 wheel lug, don't have a conventional wheel hub/wheel bearing, and a little weak. Then just get a set of FACTORY take-off wheels (also pretty easy to obtain) and mount your tires. Voila. Yer done. These are typically a Dana 30 / 35 combo. CJ axles are slightly weaker fronts, slightly stronger rears. CJs used a Dana 30 front / AMC 20 rear (and sometimes a Dana 44 rear) The CJ vintage Dana 30 fronts had less casting in the housing, and was more prone to flex, ergo, breaking things. The AMC 20 rear was a strong housing, with axle tubes that were prone to spinning inside the housing, and a two-piece rear axle shaft. Those shafts were prone to failure. The good news is they shafts were 5 on 5.5 and had conventional wheel hubs and bearings. Toyota (old pickup) axles are also a nice swap. As with all of these configurations, plenty of aftermarket parts/pieces are available for you to polish these turds (smaller-type axles). But before you start: WHY are you building this? If you're building it for a wheeler, you might consider stopping, and starting with something else. These bodies are HEAVY, top heavy, bulky (too bulky to fit many of our trail systems) and require major modifications to convert to 4x4. Since you're asking relatively easy questions (like, ummmm, what axles to use?), it can be assumed that you're relatively new to doing major re-configures. If I were you (and I ain't), I'd start with a YJ. However I'm not you, so when I build my rigs, I bought a YJ, and a TJ wrangler. The YJ, I converted the axles to Scout Dana 44s front and rear. They are much stronger than the Dana 30/35 combo, come in 5 on 5.5, have bigger bearings, wheel hubs, and had plenty of aftermarket parts available (I chose chromoly shafts, CTM u-joints, Detroit Lockers). These shafts served me reliably until I upgraded to Dana 60s. Good luck with you build, whatever you choose. Tony [/QUOTE]
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