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Recommended Rear D60 to Narrow?
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<blockquote data-quote="ItsA96" data-source="post: 1573194" data-attributes="member: 18280"><p>At the moment I'm trying to figure out the rearend, the front will come later.</p><p></p><p>Eventually I'd like to run an E-locker, which has limited application availability and which is what narrowed down my choices to a D60.</p><p></p><p>When I eventually build a frontend, I will with locking hubs which means it will be built 5 or 6 on 5.5 or 8 lug but for the moment the plan is to build the rearend the stock 5 on 5 and convert at a later date.</p><p></p><p>Your 14 bolt ideas are worth considering though. I didn't know you could find one 63" wide or about the hub conversion narrowing the axle. I wouldn't be able to run an e-locker but there's a lot of advantages to going that direction. Being a different bolt pattern, I suppose, if I went that direction I could run a 5 on 5 conversion wheel spacer until a front is built to match.</p><p></p><p>Are these the hubs you're talking about? <a href="https://solidaxle.com/collections/wheel-hubs/products/pair-of-forged-5-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-14-bolt-wheel-hubs" target="_blank">https://solidaxle.com/collections/wheel-hubs/products/pair-of-forged-5-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-14-bolt-wheel-hubs</a> The specs say it narrows the axle by 2.25" overall? </p><p></p><p>If I go the 14 bolt route I'd like to find the same thing though, one with stock 3.73 gears and a limited slip. Which applications should I look for? A quick search narrows it down to: 73'-2012 GM 1ton, C&C, van, motorhome & bus</p><p></p><p>The question with the 14B or a full-floater though becomes what to do about brakes? How to retain the speedo, ABS and e-brake. Running Cadillac brakes solves the e-brake but not the other problems. I honestly could live without ABS so long as there's a way to turn off the stupid light on the dash but I don't recall if the speedo pickup is on the t-case or at the wheels? Using JK or WJ brakes seemed like such an elegant answer but I doubt there's a way to make them work with a full-floater.</p><p></p><p>To be honest, I probably don't need a 14b or full-floater. This rig is being built as an overland, camping, trail rig that I can reliably drive anywhere across the country, go wheeling and sill pull a trailer. I'm not concerned with rock crawling or differential ground clearance. I'll sacrifice ground clearance for strength & reliability. Max tire size is probably going to be in the 35-38" range. And before one of the WJ or JK guys jumps on here and says it, no a JK D44 is not good for up to a 40" tire. If I'm gonna build an axle it's going to be overkill so I don't have to worry about it.</p><p></p><p>Thanks for the response!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="ItsA96, post: 1573194, member: 18280"] At the moment I'm trying to figure out the rearend, the front will come later. Eventually I'd like to run an E-locker, which has limited application availability and which is what narrowed down my choices to a D60. When I eventually build a frontend, I will with locking hubs which means it will be built 5 or 6 on 5.5 or 8 lug but for the moment the plan is to build the rearend the stock 5 on 5 and convert at a later date. Your 14 bolt ideas are worth considering though. I didn't know you could find one 63" wide or about the hub conversion narrowing the axle. I wouldn't be able to run an e-locker but there's a lot of advantages to going that direction. Being a different bolt pattern, I suppose, if I went that direction I could run a 5 on 5 conversion wheel spacer until a front is built to match. Are these the hubs you're talking about? [URL]https://solidaxle.com/collections/wheel-hubs/products/pair-of-forged-5-on-5-5-bolt-pattern-14-bolt-wheel-hubs[/URL] The specs say it narrows the axle by 2.25" overall? If I go the 14 bolt route I'd like to find the same thing though, one with stock 3.73 gears and a limited slip. Which applications should I look for? A quick search narrows it down to: 73'-2012 GM 1ton, C&C, van, motorhome & bus The question with the 14B or a full-floater though becomes what to do about brakes? How to retain the speedo, ABS and e-brake. Running Cadillac brakes solves the e-brake but not the other problems. I honestly could live without ABS so long as there's a way to turn off the stupid light on the dash but I don't recall if the speedo pickup is on the t-case or at the wheels? Using JK or WJ brakes seemed like such an elegant answer but I doubt there's a way to make them work with a full-floater. To be honest, I probably don't need a 14b or full-floater. This rig is being built as an overland, camping, trail rig that I can reliably drive anywhere across the country, go wheeling and sill pull a trailer. I'm not concerned with rock crawling or differential ground clearance. I'll sacrifice ground clearance for strength & reliability. Max tire size is probably going to be in the 35-38" range. And before one of the WJ or JK guys jumps on here and says it, no a JK D44 is not good for up to a 40" tire. If I'm gonna build an axle it's going to be overkill so I don't have to worry about it. Thanks for the response! [/QUOTE]
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