Reid Bronze Bushings w/ new Knuckles - Assembly issues - Dana 60

the_white_shadow · Feb 12, 2015

Heres the situation: Trying to install new reid knuckles and reid bronze bushings in my chevy 60, but they are SUPER tight when i clamp on the high steer arms. (Using the 4wheelsupply springless steel arms). The disk that sits on top of the bushing and under the high steer arm is 3/16" thick. I put in the stock nylon bushing and it sits below the top face of the knuckle and the bronze bushing sits above that surface. Right now i have the high steer arm bolted up to where the knuckle can still be turned by hand, but still very tight. If i clamped it all the way down it took me to kick the knuckle to move it. Everything is greased up and in the correct orientation. Talked with Reid and they said their bushings are supposed to sit below the knuckle but I cant see a way for that to happen.

Ive read that the bronze bushings need to "bed in" to the kingpin. But I find it hard to believe that things are supposed to be that tight. Do i just clamp the arm down all the way and let things work loose? Then set the preload with the adjusting bolt on top? Or do I tighten the arms to where I can still turn the knuckles by handm, let the bushings bed in, then re-tighten things to the proper preload?

Mainly I dont want to ruin some expensive parts before i even get to use them. Anyone running this combo? What are your experiences?

My Setup:

al1tonyota · Feb 12, 2015

I can't tell from the pics but is there a bolt and jam nut on the arm? If so there should be a washer also that sits on top of the bushing if it is tight without the washer something is prob not machined right? Also did you change the lower bearing? If so make sure the race is seated in the inner c. One more thing is I don't have hands on experience with the brass bushing but the nylons also have a tab to keep them from turning in the knuckle if they have one make sure it's lined up with the groove in the knuckle!

the_white_shadow · Feb 12, 2015

The preload bolt isnt installed in the pic, but is now. However its loose and not making contact with the washer on top of the bushing. Reason for that, is as of right now, its not needed. The preload is being set by the arm. (if that makes any sense). Ive read that if the waser is 1/4" it wont work, but the 3/16" washer will work fine and mine is the thinner of the two. I changes the lower bearing with a new Timkin, but did not change out the race because it was in good shape. (Compared the new bearing with the old and its identical and could have probably reused the old one) The new bushing has a slot for a roll pin to align properly in the new knuckle. The roll pin is installed and lined up in the slot of the knuckle.

tiny · Feb 12, 2015

How deep is the pocket in the arm? Maybe it wasn't machined deep enough. 5/16?

the_white_shadow · Feb 12, 2015

Thought about that as well. The stock bushing sits below the top of the knuckle, while the new bronze one sits up more, just over the top. This is part that doesnt make sense to me. They are identical dimensionally, except for, i think, the taper on the inside of the bushing.

I can have the depth opened up some, if need be. Dont want to take any thickness away from the washer in fear of bending it.

Rokcrler · Feb 12, 2015

Re:

I've had to wiggle the knuckle up into place to drop the bushings in completely supporting with my knee while the arm is being installed.

the_white_shadow · Feb 12, 2015

I wiggled and placed a jack under the bottom of the knuckle. basically jacked the entire front end up and still couldnt slide the bronze bushing flush or below the surface. ?/?

Tanner_myers10 · Feb 12, 2015

I run the same arms & bronze bushings and had the same type of issues when installing. My problem ended up being the diameter of the washer I used was just a little bigger than the machined pocket in the arm.

the_white_shadow · Feb 12, 2015

Took a look at that and the washer fits perfectly and flush inside the arm.

5onrocks · Feb 12, 2015

We just installed them on my Tahoe. They were stupid tight to install but once the weight was on the axle and cycled the steering everything was good. Be sure to adjust/ tighten after it is seated good.

tiny · Feb 13, 2015

I've seen 1/4" washers bend, under hard abuse. After seeing that I made mine out of 3/8" 50plate.

big ford · Feb 13, 2015

I didn't use the washer on the three that I did, put the front end on jack stand and tighten and turn the knuckle at the same time make sure they have plenty of grease they will seat .

tiny · Feb 13, 2015

The washer is what spreads the pressure from the preloading bolt to the bushing. If you didn't use it, big ford, then the bolt would go through the bushing into the kingpin socket.

big ford · Feb 13, 2015

Talking about the washer that someone mite leave between the bushing and the steering arm, I don't know which one ur talking about.

87TPIYJ · Feb 12, 2017

Bumping this thread because of a almost same issue with Solid knuckles on a 78-79 ford 60. The bronze bushing will not sit flush. Play problem though is the highsteer arms ID is smaller than the OD of the bushing. The minute I torque the arm down they bind. Should I machine the arm opening to slip fit with the bushing?

Also even if the bushing was flush I don't see how the upper king pin seal does a dam thing. The seal is D/S 620058 which is supposed to fit 78-79 60s. I have ordered d/s 41778 which is for the later Ford 60's. It looks like it will take up the gap. I guess it's because the solid knuckles and their casting is for later 60's? :dunno:

Hopefully this works. Any advice appreciated.

Edit: after I posted a reply I realized this thread was in general discussion and not tech. I think this is more tech than gen. Can a mod move this to tech section?