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General Discussion
RZR Diffs and Drivetrain
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<blockquote data-quote="blacksheep10" data-source="post: 703655" data-attributes="member: 13"><p>Depends on how good your right foot is at being off the throttle when the front comes down. I have excellent luck out of my diffs that I brainstormed the ideas for with my buddy ben, and Kenny at KB3 put together. Bronze pilot with plastic between cups tuned to your case width with oiling grooves. If you're about to go all out, lets get a RS1 diff in there. </p><p>Driveline, I got by for a LONG time on a retubed stock one, I use .120 1.25" 4130 N tube, lathe the pilot on the yoke to fit, interference on there, indicate in, rock out. A joint will get bindy and shitty when the ears tweak in relation to each other. You have to maintain snap ring gap and plane. If out of plane or gap, joint will bind. Fairly easy fix, use spicer joints. I never had a carrier failure, but put KB3 full carrier and driveshaft in and rubber mounted under the carrier. It was free as I helped him develop a lot of ****, and the yokes were turned too large (his first batch) so I had to tig all the caps in. It was all his scrap pile stuff but that's right up my alley laughing1. I have an RCV and a KB3 front trans output (running KB3 in machine), but my trans explosion problems have been related to the pinion retaining ring bolts pulling out of the case. Heli-coil these. Problem solved thus far. Never have hurt the output from my blow up **** ups. </p><p>I run and sell Rhino 2.0's. Having good luck out of them. Good warranty, seem to be a good product as I've broken a lot of **** around them and not them yet</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="blacksheep10, post: 703655, member: 13"] Depends on how good your right foot is at being off the throttle when the front comes down. I have excellent luck out of my diffs that I brainstormed the ideas for with my buddy ben, and Kenny at KB3 put together. Bronze pilot with plastic between cups tuned to your case width with oiling grooves. If you're about to go all out, lets get a RS1 diff in there. Driveline, I got by for a LONG time on a retubed stock one, I use .120 1.25" 4130 N tube, lathe the pilot on the yoke to fit, interference on there, indicate in, rock out. A joint will get bindy and shitty when the ears tweak in relation to each other. You have to maintain snap ring gap and plane. If out of plane or gap, joint will bind. Fairly easy fix, use spicer joints. I never had a carrier failure, but put KB3 full carrier and driveshaft in and rubber mounted under the carrier. It was free as I helped him develop a lot of ****, and the yokes were turned too large (his first batch) so I had to tig all the caps in. It was all his scrap pile stuff but that's right up my alley laughing1. I have an RCV and a KB3 front trans output (running KB3 in machine), but my trans explosion problems have been related to the pinion retaining ring bolts pulling out of the case. Heli-coil these. Problem solved thus far. Never have hurt the output from my blow up **** ups. I run and sell Rhino 2.0's. Having good luck out of them. Good warranty, seem to be a good product as I've broken a lot of **** around them and not them yet [/QUOTE]
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