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Shock tuning
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<blockquote data-quote="mac5005" data-source="post: 737595" data-attributes="member: 4650"><p>Don't start with a flutter stack. </p><p></p><p>Start with getting a tradition pyramid stack as close as possible. Then introduce a .010 fulcrum. And note the change. </p><p></p><p>Also only change one part of the valving at a time. </p><p></p><p>I like to start with the rebound first, when it packs in, the ride quality is terrible. It's hard to see/feel what's actually going on when it packs in badly. </p><p></p><p>The fox chart is a good starting point, but isn't the limits of what you can do. </p><p></p><p>The larger shims affect low speed, medium are mid speed, and the smaller are high speed. That is in reference to piston speed. </p><p></p><p>Get a pyramid stack that feels the best and then change out sections of the stack that achieve the goal you desire. </p><p></p><p>Ex: You may end up with two .008 shims next to the piston on C, then a .010 very small fulcrum, then a conventional pyramid stack after. </p><p></p><p>Come up with an idea of how you want the valving to be. Ie: fast rebound, light low speed comp, with very progressive compression dampening. Then make the valving perform as you desire. </p><p></p><p>The best way to learn is to tune and take notes, tune and take notes, tune and take notes. </p><p></p><p>This way I can lighten or stiffen the valving beyond what's best to confirm a direction and magnitude of the change. Check notes to see what felt better or worse, and in what way. </p><p></p><p>Another note is having a good place to tune that has all the obstacles for low/med/high piston speeds for accurately tuning the entire stack. </p><p></p><p>The best is to tune where you plan to ride the most. </p><p></p><p>Don't ignore the Free Bleed and the dual rate stop nuts. </p><p></p><p>Depending on what piston you have, you can drill/ tap bleed holes. As well as drill the ports out larger if needed. </p><p></p><p>If it's the newer powder metal/sintered piston, that's not an option. </p><p></p><p>I'll help any way I can. </p><p></p><p>Getting the right springs is the biggest first step. 2" preload is ideal, but 1" will work. Make sure you have at least 1" preload all the way around. </p><p></p><p>2" preload is ideal as it ensures you have the lightest springs to hold the weight up at the correct height. </p><p></p><p>Min 50 lbs split between primary/secondary spring, 100 is better. </p><p></p><p>If you can deal with raising ride height to 8up/down. This may get you 2" preload and the extra uptravel helps to give extra time for the valving to soak up a big compression event. </p><p></p><p>Going near/below 100lbs rate on springs, they start bowing badly.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mac5005, post: 737595, member: 4650"] Don’t start with a flutter stack. Start with getting a tradition pyramid stack as close as possible. Then introduce a .010 fulcrum. And note the change. Also only change one part of the valving at a time. I like to start with the rebound first, when it packs in, the ride quality is terrible. It’s hard to see/feel what’s actually going on when it packs in badly. The fox chart is a good starting point, but isn’t the limits of what you can do. The larger shims affect low speed, medium are mid speed, and the smaller are high speed. That is in reference to piston speed. Get a pyramid stack that feels the best and then change out sections of the stack that achieve the goal you desire. Ex: You may end up with two .008 shims next to the piston on C, then a .010 very small fulcrum, then a conventional pyramid stack after. Come up with an idea of how you want the valving to be. Ie: fast rebound, light low speed comp, with very progressive compression dampening. Then make the valving perform as you desire. The best way to learn is to tune and take notes, tune and take notes, tune and take notes. This way I can lighten or stiffen the valving beyond what’s best to confirm a direction and magnitude of the change. Check notes to see what felt better or worse, and in what way. Another note is having a good place to tune that has all the obstacles for low/med/high piston speeds for accurately tuning the entire stack. The best is to tune where you plan to ride the most. Don’t ignore the Free Bleed and the dual rate stop nuts. Depending on what piston you have, you can drill/ tap bleed holes. As well as drill the ports out larger if needed. If it’s the newer powder metal/sintered piston, that’s not an option. I’ll help any way I can. Getting the right springs is the biggest first step. 2” preload is ideal, but 1” will work. Make sure you have at least 1” preload all the way around. 2” preload is ideal as it ensures you have the lightest springs to hold the weight up at the correct height. Min 50 lbs split between primary/secondary spring, 100 is better. If you can deal with raising ride height to 8up/down. This may get you 2” preload and the extra uptravel helps to give extra time for the valving to soak up a big compression event. Going near/below 100lbs rate on springs, they start bowing badly. [/QUOTE]
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