Menu
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Calendar
Monthly
Weekly
Agenda
Archive
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
New profile posts
Latest activity
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
Forums
Rock Crawling Forums
Tech & Fab
Shock tuning
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="mac5005" data-source="post: 737606" data-attributes="member: 4650"><p>When you get the coilover tuned well for great ride, you will most likely need a sway bar to combat body roll. </p><p></p><p>If you have more sprung mass with light unsprung mass, or shocks mounted to the links in a leading/trailing arm fashion, as well as equal spring rates front and rear, sometimes you can get away without a sway bar. This is done by tuning the dual rate stop nut height in relationship to the dual rate slider. </p><p></p><p>This is not the norm for most rigs with tons and unequal weight distribution. </p><p></p><p>Getting the shocks tuned for best ride will allow the body to roll more than it does currently. It's easy to use a sway bar to control this as it is tuneable as well. </p><p></p><p>The sway bar also controls the timing of articulation front vs rear. </p><p></p><p>A rear bar makes the front articulate sooner and work more. </p><p></p><p>A front bar makes the rear suspension articulate sooner and work more. </p><p></p><p>This is why a sway bar can solve more than one issue, and is completely tuneable independently from the shocks. </p><p></p><p>That equates to less compromise between body roll and suspension ride quality and compliance. </p><p></p><p>Generally, put the sway bar on the end of the vehicle with the lighter spring rates to balance the heavier springs and force them to articulate at the same time as the lighter springs. </p><p></p><p>Cdemart2 is just saying to go ahead and plan for one. </p><p></p><p>A fulcrum shim is the smaller diameter shim in a flutter stack that puts a gap between shims in a flutter stack. </p><p></p><p>It allows the larger diameter shim to bend farther allowing more flow sooner before contacting the smaller diameter shim above it. </p><p></p><p>Ex: comp shim stack. From piston down. Diameter then thickness. </p><p></p><p>1.6" .010</p><p> .900 .012" fulcrum</p><p>1.5" .010</p><p>1.4" .010</p><p>1.25" .010</p><p>1.1" .010</p><p>.900" .010</p><p>.900" .200 back up </p><p>1.6" .200 rate plate </p><p></p><p></p><p>I wouldn't immediately up the pressure in the shock to 250. This can play hell with compression valving and tuning as the shock begins to be progressive as the compression ratio increases due to increased n2. </p><p></p><p>It can be an issue on high loads and stuff valving as you exceed the vapor pressure of the oil as it travels through the piston and valving. For getting started leave it at 200. </p><p></p><p>A buddy ran emulsions as low as 150 psi on a super light Toyota buggy with no erosion on the piston ports.</p><p></p><p> It was challenging to get the comp valving light enough, and the coilover was acting like an air shock in compression due to the compression ratio of the shock. </p><p></p><p>I needed to enlarge the ports but wasn't an option at the time. </p><p></p><p>Dropped the n2 pressure from 200-175-150 helped to get 2" preload without a spring change. It had zero preload with 200psi. </p><p></p><p>My point to all that, is yes it's a valid point with emulsions, but don't change too many things at once. </p><p></p><p>Start with the springs and preload. </p><p></p><p>Then lighten the rebound. </p><p></p><p>Then work on compression. </p><p></p><p>Start with straight pyramid stacks. </p><p></p><p>Free bleeds.</p><p></p><p>Then work in a flutter if needed. </p><p></p><p>Tune dual rate stop nuts, tune sway bar. </p><p></p><p>Fine tune rebound. </p><p></p><p>Fine tune compression. </p><p></p><p>Check piston for port erosion, increase n2 if you notice port erosion. </p><p></p><p>Emulsions are fine if you are just trail riding. Keep an eye or hand on temps. If you notice the shocks getting hot (200*) you are hot enough to have fade. </p><p></p><p>This is when the fluid has thinned out due to temp increase, and it feels like both rebound and compression valving has gotten significantly lighter(faster). </p><p></p><p>This shows you are exceeding the working range of an emulsion, and without doubt need a reservoir. </p><p></p><p>Yes resi shocks are better than emulsion. </p><p></p><p>But, you can tune an emulsion in about half the time of a resi shock. </p><p></p><p>A well tuned emulsion is better bang for the buck, and your back, compared to a poorly tuned resi shock on a trail rig. </p><p></p><p>Generally if you feel the bumps or hits in the steering wheel, that's the front. </p><p></p><p>If you feel the bump or hit in your butt/back, that's the rear.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mac5005, post: 737606, member: 4650"] When you get the coilover tuned well for great ride, you will most likely need a sway bar to combat body roll. If you have more sprung mass with light unsprung mass, or shocks mounted to the links in a leading/trailing arm fashion, as well as equal spring rates front and rear, sometimes you can get away without a sway bar. This is done by tuning the dual rate stop nut height in relationship to the dual rate slider. This is not the norm for most rigs with tons and unequal weight distribution. Getting the shocks tuned for best ride will allow the body to roll more than it does currently. It’s easy to use a sway bar to control this as it is tuneable as well. The sway bar also controls the timing of articulation front vs rear. A rear bar makes the front articulate sooner and work more. A front bar makes the rear suspension articulate sooner and work more. This is why a sway bar can solve more than one issue, and is completely tuneable independently from the shocks. That equates to less compromise between body roll and suspension ride quality and compliance. Generally, put the sway bar on the end of the vehicle with the lighter spring rates to balance the heavier springs and force them to articulate at the same time as the lighter springs. Cdemart2 is just saying to go ahead and plan for one. A fulcrum shim is the smaller diameter shim in a flutter stack that puts a gap between shims in a flutter stack. It allows the larger diameter shim to bend farther allowing more flow sooner before contacting the smaller diameter shim above it. Ex: comp shim stack. From piston down. Diameter then thickness. 1.6” .010 .900 .012” fulcrum 1.5” .010 1.4” .010 1.25” .010 1.1” .010 .900” .010 .900” .200 back up 1.6” .200 rate plate I wouldn’t immediately up the pressure in the shock to 250. This can play hell with compression valving and tuning as the shock begins to be progressive as the compression ratio increases due to increased n2. It can be an issue on high loads and stuff valving as you exceed the vapor pressure of the oil as it travels through the piston and valving. For getting started leave it at 200. A buddy ran emulsions as low as 150 psi on a super light Toyota buggy with no erosion on the piston ports. It was challenging to get the comp valving light enough, and the coilover was acting like an air shock in compression due to the compression ratio of the shock. I needed to enlarge the ports but wasn’t an option at the time. Dropped the n2 pressure from 200-175-150 helped to get 2” preload without a spring change. It had zero preload with 200psi. My point to all that, is yes it’s a valid point with emulsions, but don’t change too many things at once. Start with the springs and preload. Then lighten the rebound. Then work on compression. Start with straight pyramid stacks. Free bleeds. Then work in a flutter if needed. Tune dual rate stop nuts, tune sway bar. Fine tune rebound. Fine tune compression. Check piston for port erosion, increase n2 if you notice port erosion. Emulsions are fine if you are just trail riding. Keep an eye or hand on temps. If you notice the shocks getting hot (200*) you are hot enough to have fade. This is when the fluid has thinned out due to temp increase, and it feels like both rebound and compression valving has gotten significantly lighter(faster). This shows you are exceeding the working range of an emulsion, and without doubt need a reservoir. Yes resi shocks are better than emulsion. But, you can tune an emulsion in about half the time of a resi shock. A well tuned emulsion is better bang for the buck, and your back, compared to a poorly tuned resi shock on a trail rig. Generally if you feel the bumps or hits in the steering wheel, that’s the front. If you feel the bump or hit in your butt/back, that’s the rear. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Latest posts
I am moving to Tennessee
Latest: Kubotaorange76
Yesterday at 8:48 AM
General Discussion
For Sale
2005 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer
Latest: jeeptj99
Monday at 11:55 AM
Vehicles For Sale
I.w.i.w clampy
Latest: bobbedrunner99
Friday at 4:44 PM
Tech & Fab
Salvage 10
Latest: ridered3
Friday at 7:47 AM
Tech & Fab
Ultra4 - Battle in Bluegrass (Bowling Green, KY) East Series (4/19-4/20)
Latest: ridered3
Thursday at 12:01 PM
Trail Rides & Competitions
Forums
Rock Crawling Forums
Tech & Fab
Shock tuning
Top