Tapered lug nuts vs conical washers for high steer arms

[JEEPKEVIN]

I have a king pin Chevy 60 front with stock knuckles and high steer arms. I have the ARP studs and their tapered nuts holding them on. Obviously in future I'll move to stronger knuckles and associated arms but in the mean time, what do you think is stronger? Tapered nuts or conical washers with reg nuts? The tapered nuts provide more threaded area but do the washers give me any kind of improvement?

When I bought the arms, they included treaded studs and nuts, I sheared one, noticed a little play in steering, repaired and replaced with ARP. I now know the provided studs were nothing more then some threaded rod cut to length. Live and learn.

 

[ridered3]

Nothing to add for the technical side of things, but since @Bebop and I will be swapping my worn out aluminum high steer arms over to steel, I'm quite curious about this topic as well.

I'm running a Kingpin Chevy 60 front, with Solid knuckles, and going to a set of Agan Fab Works steel high steer arms. The arms came with Grade 8 bolts, but I also bought a set of Studs from Barnes since I'm not sure which setup we will end up going with.

 

[RustyC]

Right or wrong..I've been using tapered lugs on my GM knuckles/ high steer arms in my YJ. Been together over a decade and has never been apart. Still tight.
Them bitches are chrome too..

 

[ridered3]

Right or wrong..I've been using tapered lugs on my GM knuckles/ high steer arms in my YJ. Been together over a decade and has never been apart. Still tight.
Them bitches are chrome too..

So chrome does get ya home???

 

[Bebop]

edit : nevermind.

 

[RustyC]

So chrome does get ya home???

Every time. The lug nuts actually came with the high steer arms from the manufacturer. I can't recall the company. There were a ton on preople making arms years ago. The arms are like 1 1/4" or more thick.

 

[Lil ugly]

The difference between conical washers vs tapered nuts has more to do with accurate torque than increased holding capacity. A tapered nut has friction across the entire surface of the tapered section vs just the flat surface of a standard nut. More surface area friction = less accurate/consistent torque values. I think for the purpose of holding your arms in place a stud/conical washer/nut combination is the strongest but overall you are splitting hairs.

 

[JEEPKEVIN]

The difference between conical washers vs tapered nuts has more to do with accurate torque than increased holding capacity. A tapered nut has friction across the entire surface of the tapered section vs just the flat surface of a standard nut. More surface area friction = less accurate/consistent torque values. I think for the purpose of holding your arms in place a stud/conical washer/nut combination is the strongest but overall you are splitting hairs.

Thank!! That makes good sense.