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Tech: At wits end with an overheating motor, long post
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<blockquote data-quote="customcj7" data-source="post: 659834" data-attributes="member: 3103"><p>Alright, so here's where I'm at with the engine. </p><p></p><p>-Replaced the water pump, and then kept the radiator filled with water, but not with direct pressure from the hose. Flow was constant and in my opinion, like it should be, especially at idle.</p><p>- Ran it for a while, took it about 5 miles down the road and back, let it sit in it's own heat after a hot shutdown, etc. Gauge reached nearly 250 degrees, but no steam. Everything ran fine.</p><p>- Picked up an IR thermometer to do temp readings, as best as I can tell it's fairly accurate +/- 10 degrees. Did various heat checks on parts of the engine. Temp gauge read almost 250, water temp in the radiator top was around 210. Intake was 205, with various other locations in the 200 degree range.</p><p>- Here's where it got weird, almost every exhaust header port was around 325-350, except number 6 and number 7 cylinder were 480-495 degrees. That big of a swing would typically mean something to me. </p><p></p><p>Now, backtrack. When I did my tune up on my engine, everything ran fine. Cooling was decent, engine ran well enough, some carb adjustments needed to be dialed in as it was very rich, but it ran well. All this work was because a loose wire dropped onto the headers and cooked and fried the electrical system. I couldn't trace the problem in my spiderweb **** show of wiring, so I took it as a sign to finally fix the hack job of wiring I had. Doing so, I opted to tune up the motor. I changed out the points ignition system for a Petronix Ignitor III system with Petronix coil. New cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. IMPORTANT: The distributor stayed the same, never moved it, loosened it, changed it, etc. Now when I go to fire it up the first time, to say it ran rough was an understatement, it could barely run at all. Headers got stupid red hot in seconds. Timing was WAY off. So I put a timing gun on it, and dialed it in and it smoothed out right there. Seemingly all is right with the world.</p><p></p><p>However, I think I may still have some timing issue. I did it before, but I think I missed something when I checked TDC on the block when I verified my timing marks to be accurate. So I'm going to pull #1, verify TDC and the distributor are lined up like they should be. My engine is supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC, so I'll verify that next.</p><p></p><p>Again, the engine ran smooth, hell it ran smoother before I started messing with the carb again, now it's flooding like mad again.</p><p></p><p><u>But here is the odd question</u> Why would the tune up cause it to get so far out of timing when the distributor wasn't even touched? I mean it took a quarter turn of the distributor to get it back into correct timing, close to 30 degrees off. </p><p></p><p></p><p>SIDENOTE: I'm also going to pick up a mechanical temp gauge to verify my electrical gauge is right based on those IR thermometer readings.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="customcj7, post: 659834, member: 3103"] Alright, so here's where I'm at with the engine. -Replaced the water pump, and then kept the radiator filled with water, but not with direct pressure from the hose. Flow was constant and in my opinion, like it should be, especially at idle. - Ran it for a while, took it about 5 miles down the road and back, let it sit in it's own heat after a hot shutdown, etc. Gauge reached nearly 250 degrees, but no steam. Everything ran fine. - Picked up an IR thermometer to do temp readings, as best as I can tell it's fairly accurate +/- 10 degrees. Did various heat checks on parts of the engine. Temp gauge read almost 250, water temp in the radiator top was around 210. Intake was 205, with various other locations in the 200 degree range. - Here's where it got weird, almost every exhaust header port was around 325-350, except number 6 and number 7 cylinder were 480-495 degrees. That big of a swing would typically mean something to me. Now, backtrack. When I did my tune up on my engine, everything ran fine. Cooling was decent, engine ran well enough, some carb adjustments needed to be dialed in as it was very rich, but it ran well. All this work was because a loose wire dropped onto the headers and cooked and fried the electrical system. I couldn't trace the problem in my spiderweb **** show of wiring, so I took it as a sign to finally fix the hack job of wiring I had. Doing so, I opted to tune up the motor. I changed out the points ignition system for a Petronix Ignitor III system with Petronix coil. New cap, rotor, plugs, and wires. IMPORTANT: The distributor stayed the same, never moved it, loosened it, changed it, etc. Now when I go to fire it up the first time, to say it ran rough was an understatement, it could barely run at all. Headers got stupid red hot in seconds. Timing was WAY off. So I put a timing gun on it, and dialed it in and it smoothed out right there. Seemingly all is right with the world. However, I think I may still have some timing issue. I did it before, but I think I missed something when I checked TDC on the block when I verified my timing marks to be accurate. So I'm going to pull #1, verify TDC and the distributor are lined up like they should be. My engine is supposed to be at 10 degrees BTDC, so I'll verify that next. Again, the engine ran smooth, hell it ran smoother before I started messing with the carb again, now it's flooding like mad again. [u]But here is the odd question[/u] Why would the tune up cause it to get so far out of timing when the distributor wasn't even touched? I mean it took a quarter turn of the distributor to get it back into correct timing, close to 30 degrees off. SIDENOTE: I'm also going to pick up a mechanical temp gauge to verify my electrical gauge is right based on those IR thermometer readings. [/QUOTE]
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