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Thinking about a new TIG welder ...
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<blockquote data-quote="dmtfabrication" data-source="post: 561156" data-attributes="member: 6825"><p>I use a spoolgun everyday on 6061 tubing, typically square and rectangle in .0625 - .080 wall thickness. We will TIG some visible joints, but 80% is done with the spool guns. I don't have any push/pull gun experience, but once you get familiar with a spool gun its not that bad. I have found that what works best for what we do is .035 4043 or 4047 wire (I like the 4047 because the weld crater has less tendency to crack). The key to not dealing with burn back zapping the tip is use a .052 tip with .035 wire. I go through at least a spool a day and maybe a tip once a week to two weeks. I used to use .035 tips with .035 wire and it was a nightmare. The knurled drive wheels leave a small impression on the wire, which would cause a slight drag through the tip. The wire also tended to spiral as it exited the tip and the spiral was not consistent, causing difficult puddle control. The spiral went away when the tip size changed. Also don't short circuit weld, get it to spray transfer (24-26v); this is what makes sheet metal tougher because you have to FLY. Lap joints weld better than butt joints, inside corner butts weld great, outside corners are junk. We TIG all outside corners. I like to turn all the setting to the lowest possible spray transfer, almost a short circuit, for the thin material, which allows for a much slower travel speed. </p><p></p><p>Sorry to derail the thread. Aluminum was foreign and intimidating to me and the few welding classes I have taken, aluminum is not covered. I had to learn on the job and found the AlcoTec website very helpful. <a href="http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/education/knowledge/index.cfm" target="_blank">http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/education/knowledge/index.cfm</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="dmtfabrication, post: 561156, member: 6825"] I use a spoolgun everyday on 6061 tubing, typically square and rectangle in .0625 - .080 wall thickness. We will TIG some visible joints, but 80% is done with the spool guns. I don't have any push/pull gun experience, but once you get familiar with a spool gun its not that bad. I have found that what works best for what we do is .035 4043 or 4047 wire (I like the 4047 because the weld crater has less tendency to crack). The key to not dealing with burn back zapping the tip is use a .052 tip with .035 wire. I go through at least a spool a day and maybe a tip once a week to two weeks. I used to use .035 tips with .035 wire and it was a nightmare. The knurled drive wheels leave a small impression on the wire, which would cause a slight drag through the tip. The wire also tended to spiral as it exited the tip and the spiral was not consistent, causing difficult puddle control. The spiral went away when the tip size changed. Also don't short circuit weld, get it to spray transfer (24-26v); this is what makes sheet metal tougher because you have to FLY. Lap joints weld better than butt joints, inside corner butts weld great, outside corners are junk. We TIG all outside corners. I like to turn all the setting to the lowest possible spray transfer, almost a short circuit, for the thin material, which allows for a much slower travel speed. Sorry to derail the thread. Aluminum was foreign and intimidating to me and the few welding classes I have taken, aluminum is not covered. I had to learn on the job and found the AlcoTec website very helpful. [url=http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/education/knowledge/index.cfm]http://www.alcotec.com/us/en/education/knowledge/index.cfm[/url] [/QUOTE]
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