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Toyota thrid member info
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<blockquote data-quote="TBItoy" data-source="post: 722822" data-attributes="member: 1384"><p>a HP diff is essentially a "V6" diff, it uses the bigger bearings.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I don' think 4.10s are significantly stronger than 5.29s. </p><p>I think that most 5.29s have a worse reputation because they are installed imperfectly, not broken in properly (especially considering most stock 4.10s have 100K+ miles on them), and most people buy the cheapest gears they can find. Also people assume that because they had a "shop" install them, that they are built correctly, which I don't think is the norm (especially 10+ years ago when these reputations were formed)</p><p></p><p></p><p>Do you need 5.29 gears?</p><p>ARB is probably the "best" to limit deflection. ARB would probably be nice in the back of a little moonbuggy. </p><p>Other than that, I'd just run a welded up stock diff, pretty much impossible to bust one if you weld it up right. I've had a spool bend and be ruined after breaking a set of gears (spool weakness may have contributed to gears breaking?)</p><p></p><p></p><p>Set it up with a good pattern on the tight side, solid pinion spacer, LOTS of carrier bearing preload, keep it full of heavy weight (like 250) gear oil, and it should live a happy life (if you mostly just crawl around with it)</p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>Does your transaxle buggy not run the diffs flipped?</p><p>Are you going to run a HP 3rd flipped to put the pinion down low?</p><p> ???</p><p></p><p>unless you are commited to the toyota axles, I'd just run a welded up stock 4.10 for starters (with the bearings set up tight). That will give you a good metric of whether or not it will hold up for you. If it busts WAY easier than you think it should, then you might start looking elsewere.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="TBItoy, post: 722822, member: 1384"] a HP diff is essentially a "V6" diff, it uses the bigger bearings. I don' think 4.10s are significantly stronger than 5.29s. I think that most 5.29s have a worse reputation because they are installed imperfectly, not broken in properly (especially considering most stock 4.10s have 100K+ miles on them), and most people buy the cheapest gears they can find. Also people assume that because they had a "shop" install them, that they are built correctly, which I don't think is the norm (especially 10+ years ago when these reputations were formed) Do you need 5.29 gears? ARB is probably the "best" to limit deflection. ARB would probably be nice in the back of a little moonbuggy. Other than that, I'd just run a welded up stock diff, pretty much impossible to bust one if you weld it up right. I've had a spool bend and be ruined after breaking a set of gears (spool weakness may have contributed to gears breaking?) Set it up with a good pattern on the tight side, solid pinion spacer, LOTS of carrier bearing preload, keep it full of heavy weight (like 250) gear oil, and it should live a happy life (if you mostly just crawl around with it) Does your transaxle buggy not run the diffs flipped? Are you going to run a HP 3rd flipped to put the pinion down low? ??? unless you are commited to the toyota axles, I'd just run a welded up stock 4.10 for starters (with the bearings set up tight). That will give you a good metric of whether or not it will hold up for you. If it busts WAY easier than you think it should, then you might start looking elsewere. [/QUOTE]
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