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Trailer Lengthening
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<blockquote data-quote="b.boyd" data-source="post: 562642" data-attributes="member: 6708"><p>I lengthened my 24 foot gooseneck with dovetail to a 30 foot without a dovetail. I read and read a lot about it. There are a couple of decent threads on pirate. There is a ratio that you want to follow in terms of where the axles sit. I have seen 60\40,70\30 and 80\20. I believe I did the 70\30. Also, there is some engineering to consider on the reinforcement plates as well. I found that the plates should basically extend about 3 times in length than the heigth of the rail. For example my plates were 42 inches long in length for my rails which were 10 inch i beam. When researching reinforcement plates I found a lot of discussion on the shape of the plates. I made mine with a "fishmouth" on both ends. Further, I cut three holes 1 3/4 in diameter into the plate ,centerline. Both techniques create more surface area for welding plate to the rail and the fishmouth reduces stress risers as a result of rounded edges is what I came across. My plates were the just under 10 inches as for the heigth to squeeze just inside the i beam channel. If you choose making plates shaped that look like a diamond, it actually creates stress risers at the "points".There is even a specific type of bead you can run away from the point to move the stress riser away from the point. But, round edges seem to be what is suggested. Another option is to "z" section the rail to create a stack affect.</p><p> I cut my dove tail off and butt welded on a 9 1\2 foot section where the dovetail was butt welded,. I then relocated the axles and the splice is almost dead center between the axles. I did the long fishmouth plates inside and outside on the rails as i descried above.. I added equally long plates on top and bottom of the rails. Overall I found there are not a lot of great sources on this subject and that looking at engineering behind heavy equipment repairs yielded a lot of valuable principles.I would be glad to send you pics of before, after and the plates if you like. Mine hauls fine and i have hauled well over 10,000 lbs on my trailer. If you are good welder, have sound fabrication skills, do your homework, and take your time you can do it. If not find someone to do it for you from a safety standpoint for not only you, but, other people on the road.</p><p></p><p>Found the one of the threads for you:</p><p><a href="http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/612992-stretching-trailer.html" target="_blank">http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/612992-stretching-trailer.html</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="b.boyd, post: 562642, member: 6708"] I lengthened my 24 foot gooseneck with dovetail to a 30 foot without a dovetail. I read and read a lot about it. There are a couple of decent threads on pirate. There is a ratio that you want to follow in terms of where the axles sit. I have seen 60\40,70\30 and 80\20. I believe I did the 70\30. Also, there is some engineering to consider on the reinforcement plates as well. I found that the plates should basically extend about 3 times in length than the heigth of the rail. For example my plates were 42 inches long in length for my rails which were 10 inch i beam. When researching reinforcement plates I found a lot of discussion on the shape of the plates. I made mine with a "fishmouth" on both ends. Further, I cut three holes 1 3/4 in diameter into the plate ,centerline. Both techniques create more surface area for welding plate to the rail and the fishmouth reduces stress risers as a result of rounded edges is what I came across. My plates were the just under 10 inches as for the heigth to squeeze just inside the i beam channel. If you choose making plates shaped that look like a diamond, it actually creates stress risers at the "points".There is even a specific type of bead you can run away from the point to move the stress riser away from the point. But, round edges seem to be what is suggested. Another option is to "z" section the rail to create a stack affect. I cut my dove tail off and butt welded on a 9 1\2 foot section where the dovetail was butt welded,. I then relocated the axles and the splice is almost dead center between the axles. I did the long fishmouth plates inside and outside on the rails as i descried above.. I added equally long plates on top and bottom of the rails. Overall I found there are not a lot of great sources on this subject and that looking at engineering behind heavy equipment repairs yielded a lot of valuable principles.I would be glad to send you pics of before, after and the plates if you like. Mine hauls fine and i have hauled well over 10,000 lbs on my trailer. If you are good welder, have sound fabrication skills, do your homework, and take your time you can do it. If not find someone to do it for you from a safety standpoint for not only you, but, other people on the road. Found the one of the threads for you: [url=http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/612992-stretching-trailer.html]http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/tow-rigs-trailers/612992-stretching-trailer.html[/url] [/QUOTE]
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