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Trailing Arms
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<blockquote data-quote="mcutler" data-source="post: 663667" data-attributes="member: 1641"><p><strong>Re: Trailing Arms</strong></p><p></p><p>Other considerations:</p><p></p><p>If your running bypasses, always build your suspension to utilize the entire stroke, regardless of the coilover travel. Bypasses are position sensitive while c/o are velocity sensitive. Typically the bypass will be longer than the c/o due to its distance down the link versus the coilover...it will need more shaft for the travel.</p><p></p><p>On my 42" arms I have single mounted a 14"-2.5 shock: netting 21" of travel- likely to be strapped at about 20" due to driveshaft slip. I have 10" of uptravel.</p><p></p><p>Along with the engineering of trailing arm rear, tuning is extremely different...this I am still studying. Of course you get to use a heavier spring, I'm currently 250/300, but will likely be 3 over 3. After some talk with Wayne-zukizzy at Fox, and Ryan at Accutune, there are many ways to skin the cat. Fast desert with big whoops, lots of steel resting on the shock shaft at the piston...to control the big travel. I'm still learning on this and look forward to tearing into my shocks a number of times to fine tune the manche...but I will be doing it with the help of Fox DSC adjusters.</p><p></p><p>Frankly if your going all out with big money shocks and trailing arms, you gotta go all the way to get the full benefit. Learning to tune yourself would give everyone a better understanding of the entire system. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mcutler, post: 663667, member: 1641"] [b]Re: Trailing Arms[/b] Other considerations: If your running bypasses, always build your suspension to utilize the entire stroke, regardless of the coilover travel. Bypasses are position sensitive while c/o are velocity sensitive. Typically the bypass will be longer than the c/o due to its distance down the link versus the coilover...it will need more shaft for the travel. On my 42" arms I have single mounted a 14"-2.5 shock: netting 21" of travel- likely to be strapped at about 20" due to driveshaft slip. I have 10" of uptravel. Along with the engineering of trailing arm rear, tuning is extremely different...this I am still studying. Of course you get to use a heavier spring, I'm currently 250/300, but will likely be 3 over 3. After some talk with Wayne-zukizzy at Fox, and Ryan at Accutune, there are many ways to skin the cat. Fast desert with big whoops, lots of steel resting on the shock shaft at the piston...to control the big travel. I'm still learning on this and look forward to tearing into my shocks a number of times to fine tune the manche...but I will be doing it with the help of Fox DSC adjusters. Frankly if your going all out with big money shocks and trailing arms, you gotta go all the way to get the full benefit. Learning to tune yourself would give everyone a better understanding of the entire system. Sent from my SM-G925R4 using Tapatalk [/QUOTE]
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