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Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 Magnum and 46RE swapped, Tummy Tucked Daily Driven Jeep TJ
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<blockquote data-quote="Dan_Goodwin" data-source="post: 1572512" data-attributes="member: 4960"><p>With a little momentum on my side it was time to get this build road worthy. This will be a long post as I got all of this done in about a 2 week span in October working entirely in the dark after work since all of our weekends were tied up. </p><p></p><p>To quote David Freiburger 'Don't get it right, just get it running' is such an accurate statement with builds like this. I needed the kick in the pants motivation that only comes from getting to actually use a rig… I can wire the light bar, transmission temp gauge and other non essential things later. </p><p></p><p>First step – a new cardboard to-do list. My pictures also get sparse here because much of this was done in the dark after work and most of it is all stuff that's well documented elsewhere. The mandatory list included: </p><p></p><ul> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Fix the transmission code</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Loom and final install the wiring harness. Protect from melty or spinny things.</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Install rear upper control arms, bump stops, track bars and rear track bar relocation bracket</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Install air intake</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Install coil spring spacers (until proper springs can be ordered).</li> <li data-xf-list-type="ul">Fix brake light switch</li> </ul><p>The P0753 Shift Solenoid A transmission code was first on the list. My hunch was something was wired incorrectly on the relay I added so that's where I started due to the fact that the code remained after swapping out the PCM and transmission. I verified the wiring was correct and started checking resistance across wires to verify I didn't have any bad connections. The problem ended up being the Transmission Control Relay Output wire had pulled out of the terminal and was not making a connection. I re-crimped a new terminal and boot on and crossed this issue off the list</p><p></p><p>I also now have an intermittent issue that occurs when I plug in my code reader that the speedometer goes nuts and the reader will no longer will connect. We'll figure that out when it becomes consistent. </p><p></p><p>The harness was loomed with stuff I bought off Amazon and taped with 3M Super 33 electrical tape. I tried to copy the same method that Chrysler used that wrapped the wires then wrapped the loom to lock it all into place. I'll go into more detail in the wiring post once I have that completed. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]208425[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The Savvy rear control arms were installed and pinion angle set. As of this post, I have not installed the rear track bar and relocation bracket yet. That should happen within the next week. </p><p></p><p>I'd originally picked up a ZJ air hat to tie into the stock TJ air box but due to a tab on the throttle body and notches in the hat, it can't be clocked correctly to point to the TJ air box without modification. For the time being I slapped a parts store cone filter on the ZJ hat. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]208426[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The front Currie track bar was installed and I did run into an issue where the grease zerk interfered with the axle mounting bracket. Some massaging with the die grinder and carbide burr fixed that issue. </p><p></p><p>Next was to address the front springs and bump stops. The factory bumpers had long since left the chat from dry rot and the Rough Country springs were nowhere near up to the task of keeping the new found weight of the 5.9L suspended. If it'd had bump stops, it would have nearly been sitting on them. I went cheap and reliable for the bump stop setup, which consists of Crown OEM replacement bumpers and 2 hockey pucks per side to keep the tire out of the fender. The final combination on the springs ended up keeping the RC 2.5" springs and adding a 2" spacer to them. Do I recommend this for long term use? Nope. But this combo did give me the correct ride height, provide a surprisingly good ride quality and most importantly got the Jeep on the road. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]208427[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Lastly and pretty importantly was fixing the brake light switch. On the TJs, the throttle, brake and (if equipped) clutch pedal are an assembly that is mounted to the firewall with 4 bolts. Without a doubt the worst part of this build was swapping the pedal assembly from the manual to an automatic setup I ordered off eBay. I pulled the driver seat, laid down some blankets and just made it happen. It was all kind of a blur and I've tried to forget the rest of that experience. </p><p></p><p>If you've ever looked at the brake light switch on the TJ, it sits against the brake pedal and is pushed to a normally open state. When the pedal is pushed and takes pressure off the switch, the brake lights come on. I swapped the brake light switch from the manual to automatic pedal assembly and reinstalled it only to find the new pedal stops short of the switch, meaning the switch is always closed and leaves the lights on. The temporarily permanent solution? A zip tie. I cut the tag end off flush with the head of the zip tie and positioned the head to make contact with the switch. It's not dumb if it works.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dan_Goodwin, post: 1572512, member: 4960"] With a little momentum on my side it was time to get this build road worthy. This will be a long post as I got all of this done in about a 2 week span in October working entirely in the dark after work since all of our weekends were tied up. To quote David Freiburger 'Don't get it right, just get it running' is such an accurate statement with builds like this. I needed the kick in the pants motivation that only comes from getting to actually use a rig… I can wire the light bar, transmission temp gauge and other non essential things later. First step – a new cardboard to-do list. My pictures also get sparse here because much of this was done in the dark after work and most of it is all stuff that's well documented elsewhere. The mandatory list included: [LIST] [*]Fix the transmission code [*]Loom and final install the wiring harness. Protect from melty or spinny things. [*]Install rear upper control arms, bump stops, track bars and rear track bar relocation bracket [*]Install air intake [*]Install coil spring spacers (until proper springs can be ordered). [*]Fix brake light switch [/LIST] The P0753 Shift Solenoid A transmission code was first on the list. My hunch was something was wired incorrectly on the relay I added so that's where I started due to the fact that the code remained after swapping out the PCM and transmission. I verified the wiring was correct and started checking resistance across wires to verify I didn't have any bad connections. The problem ended up being the Transmission Control Relay Output wire had pulled out of the terminal and was not making a connection. I re-crimped a new terminal and boot on and crossed this issue off the list I also now have an intermittent issue that occurs when I plug in my code reader that the speedometer goes nuts and the reader will no longer will connect. We'll figure that out when it becomes consistent. The harness was loomed with stuff I bought off Amazon and taped with 3M Super 33 electrical tape. I tried to copy the same method that Chrysler used that wrapped the wires then wrapped the loom to lock it all into place. I'll go into more detail in the wiring post once I have that completed. [ATTACH type="full"]208425[/ATTACH] The Savvy rear control arms were installed and pinion angle set. As of this post, I have not installed the rear track bar and relocation bracket yet. That should happen within the next week. I'd originally picked up a ZJ air hat to tie into the stock TJ air box but due to a tab on the throttle body and notches in the hat, it can't be clocked correctly to point to the TJ air box without modification. For the time being I slapped a parts store cone filter on the ZJ hat. [ATTACH type="full"]208426[/ATTACH] The front Currie track bar was installed and I did run into an issue where the grease zerk interfered with the axle mounting bracket. Some massaging with the die grinder and carbide burr fixed that issue. Next was to address the front springs and bump stops. The factory bumpers had long since left the chat from dry rot and the Rough Country springs were nowhere near up to the task of keeping the new found weight of the 5.9L suspended. If it'd had bump stops, it would have nearly been sitting on them. I went cheap and reliable for the bump stop setup, which consists of Crown OEM replacement bumpers and 2 hockey pucks per side to keep the tire out of the fender. The final combination on the springs ended up keeping the RC 2.5" springs and adding a 2" spacer to them. Do I recommend this for long term use? Nope. But this combo did give me the correct ride height, provide a surprisingly good ride quality and most importantly got the Jeep on the road. [ATTACH type="full"]208427[/ATTACH] Lastly and pretty importantly was fixing the brake light switch. On the TJs, the throttle, brake and (if equipped) clutch pedal are an assembly that is mounted to the firewall with 4 bolts. Without a doubt the worst part of this build was swapping the pedal assembly from the manual to an automatic setup I ordered off eBay. I pulled the driver seat, laid down some blankets and just made it happen. It was all kind of a blur and I've tried to forget the rest of that experience. If you've ever looked at the brake light switch on the TJ, it sits against the brake pedal and is pushed to a normally open state. When the pedal is pushed and takes pressure off the switch, the brake lights come on. I swapped the brake light switch from the manual to automatic pedal assembly and reinstalled it only to find the new pedal stops short of the switch, meaning the switch is always closed and leaves the lights on. The temporarily permanent solution? A zip tie. I cut the tag end off flush with the head of the zip tie and positioned the head to make contact with the switch. It's not dumb if it works. [/QUOTE]
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Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 Magnum and 46RE swapped, Tummy Tucked Daily Driven Jeep TJ
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