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Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 Magnum and 46RE swapped, Tummy Tucked Daily Driven Jeep TJ
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<blockquote data-quote="Dan_Goodwin" data-source="post: 763699" data-attributes="member: 4960"><p>Next was to install the crossmember. If you're using tabs in a double shear setup, here's a tip to allow easier installation after welding. Whether you're installing a heim joint for steering or a harness mount, install an extra washer or some spacer between the tabs prior to welding. This prevents the tabs from pulling together and making your crossmember, seatbelt, etc. nearly impossible to install. Another note if you're using bushings – be careful not to melt your busing when welding. </p><p></p><p>I bolted the tabs to the crossmember, tacked the mounting tabs in place then pulled the crossmember. The bushings from the Barnes 4wd kit have a 3" mounting width so I cut a piece of scrap tube at 3.125", bolted that between the tabs and grabbed the welder. You could also do this with all-thread. </p><p></p><p>Truth be told, I never really liked the transmission mount I'd mocked up before and was on the fence about changing it and after feedback from another forum I opted to change it. The drivetrain wants to rotate around the crankshaft, so the transmission needs to be able to rotate around that axis as well. The way I'd previously designed the mount the transmission was essentially fixed and would have likely broken the weld on the mount or cracked the transmission housing. </p><p></p><p>The factory Dodge transmission bracket centers the TJ rubber mount over the front 2 mounting bolts, moving it away from the crossmember. Unfortunately, it's far enough away that it creates too much of a moment on the crossmember for me to be comfortable with. I decided to build a custom mount out of 3/16" material and a Barnes poly bushing kit and mount. Here was the final result: </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]161467[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]161463[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The transfer case was 20.25" from the driver side frame rail to the center of the rear output shaft, so I matched that dimension here. I intentionally shifted the bushing to the rear to make the mounting tabs as short as possible. Yet another tech tip for overhead welding – wear some earplugs to avoid getting sparks down your ear. It's really unpleasant. </p><p></p><p>I had a few hours after work this week to tackle a small project and decided to mount the transmission and power steering cooler. The transmission cooler mount is simply threaded trick tabs welded to the brace behind the grill. The power steering cooler bolts to a 14ga mounting plate welded above the trans cooler. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]161466[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]161464[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]161465[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Next on the to-do list is to finish the exhaust, install the wiring harness and get power to the starter so I can hear the engine fire up, hopefully this weekend.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Dan_Goodwin, post: 763699, member: 4960"] Next was to install the crossmember. If you're using tabs in a double shear setup, here's a tip to allow easier installation after welding. Whether you're installing a heim joint for steering or a harness mount, install an extra washer or some spacer between the tabs prior to welding. This prevents the tabs from pulling together and making your crossmember, seatbelt, etc. nearly impossible to install. Another note if you're using bushings – be careful not to melt your busing when welding. I bolted the tabs to the crossmember, tacked the mounting tabs in place then pulled the crossmember. The bushings from the Barnes 4wd kit have a 3" mounting width so I cut a piece of scrap tube at 3.125", bolted that between the tabs and grabbed the welder. You could also do this with all-thread. Truth be told, I never really liked the transmission mount I'd mocked up before and was on the fence about changing it and after feedback from another forum I opted to change it. The drivetrain wants to rotate around the crankshaft, so the transmission needs to be able to rotate around that axis as well. The way I'd previously designed the mount the transmission was essentially fixed and would have likely broken the weld on the mount or cracked the transmission housing. The factory Dodge transmission bracket centers the TJ rubber mount over the front 2 mounting bolts, moving it away from the crossmember. Unfortunately, it's far enough away that it creates too much of a moment on the crossmember for me to be comfortable with. I decided to build a custom mount out of 3/16" material and a Barnes poly bushing kit and mount. Here was the final result: [ATTACH type="full"]161467[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]161463[/ATTACH] The transfer case was 20.25" from the driver side frame rail to the center of the rear output shaft, so I matched that dimension here. I intentionally shifted the bushing to the rear to make the mounting tabs as short as possible. Yet another tech tip for overhead welding – wear some earplugs to avoid getting sparks down your ear. It's really unpleasant. I had a few hours after work this week to tackle a small project and decided to mount the transmission and power steering cooler. The transmission cooler mount is simply threaded trick tabs welded to the brace behind the grill. The power steering cooler bolts to a 14ga mounting plate welded above the trans cooler. [ATTACH type="full"]161466[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]161464[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]161465[/ATTACH] Next on the to-do list is to finish the exhaust, install the wiring harness and get power to the starter so I can hear the engine fire up, hopefully this weekend. [/QUOTE]
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Trying to get it mostly right the first time: A 5.9 Magnum and 46RE swapped, Tummy Tucked Daily Driven Jeep TJ
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