Welded on beadlocks...now it's physically impossible to get the tire on...wtf?

TacomaJD

TacomaJD

I LIKE CHEAP STUFF.....
Joined
Oct 28, 2010
Messages
14,441
Location
Rainsville, AL
I have a set of 15x8 wheels....not sure what the offset is but they are offset more than the average 15x8 as you can see in the pic below. Seeing as how they're offset like this, it is damn impossible to get the tire over that outside lip. The tire will go on and come off all day long from the back side of the wheel, but you can't get the lip of the tire over the outside of the rim because the smaller diameter portion of the wheel isn't close enough to the lip to give the tire bead enough room to pop over it. It bogs a tire machine down and we even tried twisting the tire/wheel while the pedal on the tire machine was pushed to help it....but it would just almost tear the bead all to hell. This **** burns me up wasting all this time and money for some ****ing valve stem protectors / rim lip reinforcements. Why is it not mentioned anywhere that when you have an offset wheel like this, that you cannot get the tire over the outside lip like you need it if you weld on beadlocks. Surely I'm not the first human being to **** up and try this... If any of you have any sorts of tricks up your sleeve, I'm def open for suggestions...but we have tried just about everything in the book...and failed every single time.

2011-09-24_22-16-59_990.jpg
 
have you tried puting the tire on from the front (side with beadlock ring)? did the ring set inside the lip of the wheel or did it lay on top? try any lube?
 
Yes, tried putting on from the front side with tire irons and pry bars for 4 hours saturday night....then with a tire machine today and that's when it bogged down and us twisting it around almost ripped the bead. Had some of that PB lube **** Saturday night and used the **** at the tire store today trying to get them on. I'm 99.9% sure it's physically impossible without tearing the tire up. Tried putting one tire completely on like it would be normally from the backside of the wheel, then trying to pop the outer tire bead on the outside of the wheel and it will not work.

The beadlocks sat down in the wheel and mounted flush, then after they were welded, I ground them down so the dimensions of the wheel remain unaltered.

...guess I need to just sell these *****es, spend the money on some damn "unoffset" beadlocks and buy some wheel spacers. Fawk me, I have the worst luck ever.... :indianajones:
 
Maybe a more pliable tire would work....I don't know.

You know the part of the wheel (the part that is normally hidden when a tire is on the rim on the inside)...depending on the offset of a wheel, that smaller diameter portion on the inside of the wheel that is supposed to allow the bead enough room to pop down over the wheel lip is all the way toward the backside of the wheel.

This is the way most wheels are.... the smaller inside diameter is to help give the tire room enough to pop over the lip for mounting purposes...and it's usually toward teh outside of the wheel. That smaller diameter portion is all the way toward the backside of my wheels....like if you was to take this picture and switch sides. I would have never thought it would've been impossible to do until we tried every way in the world...even when I dropped them off at my buddy's tire store, he said I don't think you'll ever get that tire on the outside of that wheel lip...and he was right, we couldn't.

wheel_measurements.jpg
 
I would post another pic of the wheels but since we are going to MSORP this weekend, I just told my buddy that owns teh tire store to just mount em like normal so I could at least go ride. I had to be at work at 2pm today so I'll have to pick em up in the morning from the tire shop, but the tires will be mounted on the wheels already like normal. I didn't have time to think about taking a pic of the wheel before I came into work today.
 
Yes that's exactly what they are! Dammit! My beads are already torn just a little bit and I didn't want to take a chance on fawkin my tire up cuz 36/12.50/15 bias ply tsl's are hard to find now that interco has been a bunch of little *****es on production of misc. tires and some of their factories closing down or being bought out...whatever the case is (that's just what I've heard)

From that pirate thread:

"it is a reverse center rim, this means that it is like putting the tire on the back of a normal 15x10, there is a large raised section that makes it very tight and I think that the back lip may also be slightly larger that the normal front one, the are reverse centers because of the deep backspacing."


Why do you think reverse center wheels don't need beadlocks? I've knocked my front right tire off before .....I realize they are better at keeping a bead seated than a standard wheel, but I don't like having to **** with gettin the tire blew back up on the rim when I knock it off lol. Hell I'll prolly just say fukk it and wheel it like it is for quite a while longer. I hate trial and error **** like this that wastes alot of money and time.

I got 128 bolts, lock washers, and nuts I need to sell now.....along with some red powder coated outter rings. molaugh
 
jd, i have just ordered another set of wheels from marsh racing, they call it the large bell to the outside. when you go less than 3.00 back spacing they have to turn the large bell to the outside. that is what we are running on my red us army toyota but we are not running beadlocks. we run 10 lbs of air in the 39 reds.
 
That's normally what I run in my tsl's....I keep an air tank in my toolbox cuz a couple of them have slow leaks. I've only knocked a tire off the rim once and I didn't check the air pressure in any of them that morning before we rode at MSORP, so who knows....it could've had like 3 or 4 lb of air in it...cuz it just kinda fell off the rim, I didn't hit or slide up against anything. I pay alot more attention to air pressure now. Eventually down the road, I'll get a set of true beadlocks I guess....but just use these for now until I can afford a good set.
 
When I actually had a rig and wheeled :flipoff1: I ran 15x8's with DIY's and they were typical 3.75 BSing and I ran spacers to get them to clear ****, so when I added the DIY's it was on a std rim. The inside bead on a normal wheel holds the bead better than the outer is why outer BL's are common. Once you go to reverse center wheels, the inner bead is now the weak point. Yes the outer can still be popped, but burping it is less likely with reversed center wheels is all. I burped a lot before I added BL's
 
Bones, thanks alot for the link and clearing all that up. That **** was/is still pissing me off. Wish I had've known that last week. Oh well, another lesson learned.

Machen, you're going to MSORP this weekend aren't you? If so, looking forward to wheeling with you! :dblthumb:
 
i have a dam nice set of trail ready hd alum beadlocks been in the woods 4 times i take 900 for them and meet ya half way with them call or text me they are sweet wheels and only a couple more hundred than steel ones they have a 3 inch back space by the way
 
I couldn't afford em if they were 500 bucks lol which is why my buddy made these for me on tha cheap at his work. Otherwise I wouldn't have even had a set to weld on. Starting college in the spring and have got to buy a new laptop too...the one I have now has almost **** the bed.
 
Its possible to get them on just a pain in the ass. I had 39.5 x15 iroks on 2" bs wheels with weld on rings. Two went on like normal after a lot of grinding on the outer lip,and the other two we put on from the back like was stated earlier and pulled the bead over the lip. I made sure the outer edge of the wheel was ground smooth,and even, and rounded it off,then used a **** TON of lube. You might need to wedge a few 2x4s ,cut to the right length, inside the tire to keep the inner bead on the small spot of the wheel.
 

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