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Whats a good 4 link calculator
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<blockquote data-quote="mac5005" data-source="post: 455379" data-attributes="member: 4650"><p><strong>Re: Whats a good 4 link calculator</strong></p><p></p><p>I shoot for some generic numbers in the calculator. See what fits under the rig and keep going back and forth until I end up with a setup I feel comfortable with. Usually takes about 3 hours of steady back and forth. </p><p></p><p>A/s 60-80% and no more that 5% change through travel</p><p></p><p>Roll axis angle of 0, no more than 2 positive or negative </p><p></p><p>Pinion change less than 4 degrees each direction. </p><p></p><p>Also need at least 40 degrees of triangulation minimum. </p><p></p><p>Try to get upper links as high as possible and as parallel to ground as possible at ride height. </p><p></p><p>Lower links are typically about same length as tire diameter. </p><p></p><p>Double triangulation is easier to get all the numbers in the calculator to function correctly through the travel. </p><p>As well, this keeps the links pivoting on the link bolts rather than using the misalignment of the joint. </p><p></p><p>The upper link frame mount is one of the most critical locations. Changes in 1/4 mean a lot. When I build the mounts I usually build them with three holes for adjustments to the a/s. Usually one hole for 60%, one for 70% and one for 80%. As you move the upper link higher the a/s drops and you also need to move the mounting hole forward slightly. Usually 3/4" up and 3/4 forward is what it typically ends up being.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mac5005, post: 455379, member: 4650"] [b]Re: Whats a good 4 link calculator[/b] I shoot for some generic numbers in the calculator. See what fits under the rig and keep going back and forth until I end up with a setup I feel comfortable with. Usually takes about 3 hours of steady back and forth. A/s 60-80% and no more that 5% change through travel Roll axis angle of 0, no more than 2 positive or negative Pinion change less than 4 degrees each direction. Also need at least 40 degrees of triangulation minimum. Try to get upper links as high as possible and as parallel to ground as possible at ride height. Lower links are typically about same length as tire diameter. Double triangulation is easier to get all the numbers in the calculator to function correctly through the travel. As well, this keeps the links pivoting on the link bolts rather than using the misalignment of the joint. The upper link frame mount is one of the most critical locations. Changes in 1/4 mean a lot. When I build the mounts I usually build them with three holes for adjustments to the a/s. Usually one hole for 60%, one for 70% and one for 80%. As you move the upper link higher the a/s drops and you also need to move the mounting hole forward slightly. Usually 3/4" up and 3/4 forward is what it typically ends up being. [/QUOTE]
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