• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Brads buggy / car build

P said:
75 per shaft or per assy (side )

I am pretty sure it is $75/axle ($300 total) but you will need a ram to turn the extra few inches...


Brad, the buggy looks nice. Rally like the lines an the rear storage basket. Good stuff!
 
Im sure one could manipulate a 10" ram with mounts and steering arms ( I have some I havent used... ) to work.

Either way, just bein curious.
 
I aint doin any high turn ****, it would take way more $$ and fab than Im willing to go through. Mine does rub link just slightly as it is , not enough to make the lug lug noise, but enough to knock paint off. laughing1
 
I milled mine, for pure simple reason if you get into a bind sometimes your wheel will turn a little more than normal. If your ujoints bind just a little then you make them just a little more weaker. It's a good idea to mill the ends even if your not turning 45+-.
 
Got most of the interior sheet metal in. both seats mounted, most of the wiring ran. and fuel lines. The front actually turns freaking sharp as hell. I cut off my stops on my knuckles and bottom them out, I may grind um down some to get alittle more turn turn. I had to make a new front drive shaft , the bigger tube was hitting my skid plate when flexed out. Made a new one out of some 2",1/2 wall laying around and it works alot better. I still need to clearace about another 1/8 or so to make it work better. Installed some foot rest on the driver side and passenger side. I was going to do a Tbar setup , but it's just too tight on the passenger side. I will more than likely install some grabs down by the seats.
I aired up my struts to ride height. I am right where I guessed it would be 22" belly 81"to the top. It looks alittle high , but then again I'm used to looking at it sitting at full stuff.
Damn, I can't wait to get this bitch going. Even my wife thinks it looks pretty.
As always I'm down to the wire, and will more than likely be working on it the night before we leave to Cali.
 
I have the same fuel pump, its a loud one just so you know
I know, it's loud as hell. I've been running mine for over 3yrs and no problems. Their good dependable pumps.
Where do you have your fuel regulator? Close to the pump or toward the engine?
 
kid rok said:
I know, it's loud as hell. I've been running mine for over 3yrs and no problems. Their good dependable pumps.
Where do you have your fuel regulator? Close to the pump or toward the engine?

I run the factory 6.0 regulator, on the side of the intake. I do run a filter before and after the pump as well.
 
Can I run a high pressure pump with the fuel pressure regulator thats already on the fuel rails. Or do I have have to go through a regulator to reduce the pressure. Also if my radiator doesn't have the steam hole for the 5.3, then can I run it through my vent tube or does it have to connect directly to the radiator?
 
I run one of those E2000 pumps from Napa, straight to the fuel rail. no issues.
as for the the steam port, I had one put in on the radiator I had built from Howe. It actually pumps water through it, so it needs to have be in the loop some how.

Brian
 
vent hose can go anywhere in the coolant system. Top of radiator is best, but you can Tee into the recovery tank or tap the flatspot on the water punp. As for the pump, I am not running any kind of regualator to reduce pressure, I think the stock one will take care of it, because my pump can put out 80 or 90, but when I tested it with the guage it read normal for a vortec, like 55-60 or whatever it was.
 
kid rok said:
ry%3D320.jpg

Is this a good Idea. I am putting quick disconnects on my trans and my gas tank. The thought behind it is when I pull either it will close off any fluid from coming out plus keep debris out as well.
Seems like its a good idea, and I cant see any reason why it shouldn't work. I like it alot. Damn son thats pretty smart. Where did those come from?
 
Thanks for the fuel info.
The quick disconnects are regular air hose fittings. I have had alot of guys tell me they will probably start leaking. I have one on my gas tank as well. I have fuel in it and I'm testing it out to see if it leaks. It's been a week and no leak yet. If they do leak, I think I can install an Oring thats rated for fuel or trans fluid and be ok. I also have one on my transfercase drain plug. I can plug my fill tank to it and fill it up or hook a hose to it and drain it without having to make a big mess.
As far as the idea, I'm a carpenter and have been using them for years on air hoses.
 
using them for years.... LOL

I thought they looked like air line disco's but would have never thought to use them for fluid. I cant say as I've ever had one on anything that didnt leak. Sorry I assumed they were for fluid.

Well let us know if they leak. I like the idea.
 
Don't know but do you think that putting the guick connects on that will reduce the flow of liquids because they are smaller than the lines. Just a thought that you mights have a size or two bigger on the fiting than the trans lines. :dunno:
 
Top