• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

WOD driveshaft bearing

slravenel

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Messages
680
Location
Atlanta, GA
Using the single DS bearing from WOD on my buggy build, but am having some issues getting the right size yoke for the midshaft at the Atlas end.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/11196/Drive-Shaft-Carrier-Bearing.aspx

1350 yoke on the Atlas.

The end of the WOD bearing is 2.25OD which is all fine and well....tubing to fit that is easy. But I cannot for the life of me, find a 1350 weld on yoke anywhere that has a 2.25 OD...

Where are you guys getting the right tubing / yoke combo from?

Thanks!
 
I found the same one that slravenel did. I used a different supplier years ago but he must have gone out of business because I don't find his site online. No harm in turning an a sixteenth of the yoke. Heck if you take of just enough to make it press fit, you can heat the tubing and cool the yoke you will be money with your fit and less likely to ever see failure in the driveshaft at that point.
 
I am the one that makes these carrier bearings so if you guys want something different just let me know and would be glad to turn this down to anysize for you just send it to me and I will take care of you
 
traveler said:
I am the one that makes these carrier bearings so if you guys want something different just let me know and would be glad to turn this down to anysize for you just send it to me and I will take care of you

Can I buy a 1350 weld yoke from you that is turned down to 2.25 OD?
 
The stub in the bearing can be turned to size.

We do it a couple different ways. 1) 2 x .120 wall tube to fit a Spicer yoke and turn the carrier bearing stub. 2) 2.25 x .250 wall to fit the same yoke and turn down the carrier bearing stub.

The weld yoke we use is a $30.00 Spicer weld yoke.
 
WideOpenDesign said:
The stub in the bearing can be turned to size.

We do it a couple different ways. 1) 2 x .120 wall tube to fit a Spicer yoke and turn the carrier bearing stub. 2) 2.25 x .250 wall to fit the same yoke and turn down the carrier bearing stub.

The weld yoke we use is a $30.00 Spicer weld yoke.

Why not just make the carrier bearing stub the same size as the $30 yoke?
 
We use the same carrier bearing on 1410 yokes, that are all substantially larger diameter pilots for the tube.

Most 1410 stuff available is for 3", 3.5" and 4" / .083, .095 driveshaft tube.
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm no knocking the product - it's a kick ass unit. But why not add the option upon purchase to have it turned to the right size and include the other weld on end? Seems like you could make some lives easy for folks and get some more sales out of it at the same time? I know I would have bought the optional "kit" ready to go? I would think that this would be a common issue that the customers are having :flipgotcha:
 
I copied this post from my build thread. This is how I did mine.

hokie_yj said:
I worked on the midship shafts today and got both of them tacked together and the carrier bearing mounts tacked in place. The carrier bearings are WOD's single ended bearings. The weld yoke is a Spicer 3-28-777 welded into a short piece of 2.25"x.250" DOM to sleeve into the 2.5"x.120" tubing. And the end yoke is a forged 32 spline 1350 yoke from Northern Drivetrain.

Starting on the rear shaft.





Here's my redneck fixture I set up to get them as square as possible and the joints in phase. I'm sure there are much better ways of doing this, but it's what I came up with and it worked pretty well for me.



All tacked together.



And tacked in place.



This picture makes it look a little closer than it really is, but it should clear the shifter linkage just fine.



Looking back from where the pinion yoke will be. As you can see this thing will see some pretty crazy angles.



Putting together the front shaft.



Mounted in place.



And looking back from the pinion again. The front shaft won't have near the angle that the rear does.



I originally planned to put short slips in these shafts hoping that would help with vibration. I already had all the parts to make the shortest slip I could find. But I mentioned it in another thread and Ryan from He-Man Machine recommend that I not put a slip in them. And since he designed and builds the bearings I figured I should definitely take his advice.
 
I had thought of something like that as well...

Did the yoke slide into that 2.25 x .250, or did you have to do any grinding. Measurements online are saying the weld yoke OD is 1.77

I think that I may just turn down the WOD bearing end to 1.75 or something and then slide it into a piece of 2.25 x .250 and call it good. Less welds of mine to fail laughing1
 
I spent just a few minutes on each with a die grinder just knocking off burs. Then I heated the tube in the oven for a while and then pressed the yoke in.

I cut the tubing on our big Marvel vertical bandsaw at work so it would be as square as possible.

If you have easy access to a machine shop that would be the easier way to go. I don't have access to one, and I didn't want to pay someone so I built all of my shafts using tubing to sleeve together.
 
I am curious about that too.

I know that I have seen several buggies with these carrier bearing setups in a non hard mounted drivetrain setup. I wonder if the movement is just not enough to hurt them?

Curious to see what WOD says here...
 
Top