WOD driveshaft bearing

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slravenel

slravenel

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Using the single DS bearing from WOD on my buggy build, but am having some issues getting the right size yoke for the midshaft at the Atlas end.

http://www.wideopendesign.com/Product/11196/Drive-Shaft-Carrier-Bearing.aspx

1350 yoke on the Atlas.

The end of the WOD bearing is 2.25OD which is all fine and well....tubing to fit that is easy. But I cannot for the life of me, find a 1350 weld on yoke anywhere that has a 2.25 OD...

Where are you guys getting the right tubing / yoke combo from?

Thanks!
 
I found the same one that slravenel did. I used a different supplier years ago but he must have gone out of business because I don't find his site online. No harm in turning an a sixteenth of the yoke. Heck if you take of just enough to make it press fit, you can heat the tubing and cool the yoke you will be money with your fit and less likely to ever see failure in the driveshaft at that point.
 
I am the one that makes these carrier bearings so if you guys want something different just let me know and would be glad to turn this down to anysize for you just send it to me and I will take care of you
 
traveler said:
I am the one that makes these carrier bearings so if you guys want something different just let me know and would be glad to turn this down to anysize for you just send it to me and I will take care of you
Click to expand...

Can I buy a 1350 weld yoke from you that is turned down to 2.25 OD?
 
The stub in the bearing can be turned to size.

We do it a couple different ways. 1) 2 x .120 wall tube to fit a Spicer yoke and turn the carrier bearing stub. 2) 2.25 x .250 wall to fit the same yoke and turn down the carrier bearing stub.

The weld yoke we use is a $30.00 Spicer weld yoke.
 
WideOpenDesign said:
The stub in the bearing can be turned to size.

We do it a couple different ways. 1) 2 x .120 wall tube to fit a Spicer yoke and turn the carrier bearing stub. 2) 2.25 x .250 wall to fit the same yoke and turn down the carrier bearing stub.

The weld yoke we use is a $30.00 Spicer weld yoke.
Click to expand...

Why not just make the carrier bearing stub the same size as the $30 yoke?
 
We use the same carrier bearing on 1410 yokes, that are all substantially larger diameter pilots for the tube.

Most 1410 stuff available is for 3", 3.5" and 4" / .083, .095 driveshaft tube.
 
Don't get me wrong, I'm no knocking the product - it's a kick ass unit. But why not add the option upon purchase to have it turned to the right size and include the other weld on end? Seems like you could make some lives easy for folks and get some more sales out of it at the same time? I know I would have bought the optional "kit" ready to go? I would think that this would be a common issue that the customers are having :flipgotcha:
 
I copied this post from my build thread. This is how I did mine.

hokie_yj said:
I worked on the midship shafts today and got both of them tacked together and the carrier bearing mounts tacked in place. The carrier bearings are WOD's single ended bearings. The weld yoke is a Spicer 3-28-777 welded into a short piece of 2.25"x.250" DOM to sleeve into the 2.5"x.120" tubing. And the end yoke is a forged 32 spline 1350 yoke from Northern Drivetrain.

Starting on the rear shaft.





Here's my redneck fixture I set up to get them as square as possible and the joints in phase. I'm sure there are much better ways of doing this, but it's what I came up with and it worked pretty well for me.



All tacked together.



And tacked in place.



This picture makes it look a little closer than it really is, but it should clear the shifter linkage just fine.



Looking back from where the pinion yoke will be. As you can see this thing will see some pretty crazy angles.



Putting together the front shaft.



Mounted in place.



And looking back from the pinion again. The front shaft won't have near the angle that the rear does.



I originally planned to put short slips in these shafts hoping that would help with vibration. I already had all the parts to make the shortest slip I could find. But I mentioned it in another thread and Ryan from He-Man Machine recommend that I not put a slip in them. And since he designed and builds the bearings I figured I should definitely take his advice.
Click to expand...
 
I had thought of something like that as well...

Did the yoke slide into that 2.25 x .250, or did you have to do any grinding. Measurements online are saying the weld yoke OD is 1.77

I think that I may just turn down the WOD bearing end to 1.75 or something and then slide it into a piece of 2.25 x .250 and call it good. Less welds of mine to fail laughing1
 
I spent just a few minutes on each with a die grinder just knocking off burs. Then I heated the tube in the oven for a while and then pressed the yoke in.

I cut the tubing on our big Marvel vertical bandsaw at work so it would be as square as possible.

If you have easy access to a machine shop that would be the easier way to go. I don't have access to one, and I didn't want to pay someone so I built all of my shafts using tubing to sleeve together.
 
hokie_yj said:
No, it's all bushing mounted.
Click to expand...

Now I seen that Ryan said to not put a slip in. But with it bushing mounted I don't see how that will work. :dunno:
 
I am curious about that too.

I know that I have seen several buggies with these carrier bearing setups in a non hard mounted drivetrain setup. I wonder if the movement is just not enough to hurt them?

Curious to see what WOD says here...
 
slravenel said:
I am curious about that too.

I know that I have seen several buggies with these carrier bearing setups in a non hard mounted drivetrain setup. I wonder if the movement is just not enough to hurt them?

Curious to see what WOD says here...
Click to expand...

X2 and what Heman has to say.
 
bjeep said:
Now I seen that Ryan said to not put a slip in. But with it bushing mounted I don't see how that will work. :dunno:
Click to expand...

Yeah, I was skeptical. I guess I still am a little bit, but he's the man that designed it so I'm taking his word on it. I'm sure the bearings will wear prematurely, but they'll be easy and pretty cheap to replace.
 
If your drive train is hard mounted we want to see the bearing mounted solid. We also want to see a solid drive shaft between the bearing and transfer case.
There is no reason that a slip will not be okay in this set up it will just add cost for no benefit.


If the drive train is soft mounted there are two ways I would want to see the bearing and shaft installed.

#1 The carrier bearing hard mounted and a slip in the shaft
#2 The bearing mounted on bushings and no slip in the drive shaft.

We have a lot of people out there running this set up with the bearing mounted solid and a solid drive shaft while having soft mounted drive train and no issues. I see this set up having potential for failure knowing the drive train can flex and the shaft and bearing can't.


I hope this helps you guys out.

We are putting together a kit that will include the bearing, mount, drive shaft tube, and a weld yoke. This will be available on our web site and you will be able to pick all of the parts and options that you want from simple drop down boxes. This thread has been good for us to see what you guys want.

Adam
 
Woodlee said:
If your drive train is hard mounted we want to see the bearing mounted solid. We also want to see a solid drive shaft between the bearing and transfer case.
There is no reason that a slip will not be okay in this set up it will just add cost for no benefit.


If the drive train is soft mounted there are two ways I would want to see the bearing and shaft installed.

#1 The carrier bearing hard mounted and a slip in the shaft
#2 The bearing mounted on bushings and no slip in the drive shaft.

We have a lot of people out there running this set up with the bearing mounted solid and a solid drive shaft while having soft mounted drive train and no issues. I see this set up having potential for failure knowing the drive train can flex and the shaft and bearing can't.


I hope this helps you guys out.

We are putting together a kit that will include the bearing, mount, drive shaft tube, and a weld yoke. This will be available on our web site and you will be able to pick all of the parts and options that you want from simple drop down boxes. This thread has been good for us to see what you guys want.

Adam
Click to expand...

Thanks Adam.

I was thinking it needed a slip with poly mounts. :dblthumb:
 
Woodlee said:
If your drive train is hard mounted we want to see the bearing mounted solid. We also want to see a solid drive shaft between the bearing and transfer case.
There is no reason that a slip will not be okay in this set up it will just add cost for no benefit.


If the drive train is soft mounted there are two ways I would want to see the bearing and shaft installed.

#1 The carrier bearing hard mounted and a slip in the shaft
#2 The bearing mounted on bushings and no slip in the drive shaft.

We have a lot of people out there running this set up with the bearing mounted solid and a solid drive shaft while having soft mounted drive train and no issues. I see this set up having potential for failure knowing the drive train can flex and the shaft and bearing can't.


I hope this helps you guys out.

We are putting together a kit that will include the bearing, mount, drive shaft tube, and a weld yoke. This will be available on our web site and you will be able to pick all of the parts and options that you want from simple drop down boxes. This thread has been good for us to see what you guys want.

Adam
Click to expand...

Adam - Do you know when this kit will be available? I am coming up on needing one soon and ive planned to go this route.
 
Woodlee said:
If your drive train is hard mounted we want to see the bearing mounted solid. We also want to see a solid drive shaft between the bearing and transfer case.
There is no reason that a slip will not be okay in this set up it will just add cost for no benefit.


If the drive train is soft mounted there are two ways I would want to see the bearing and shaft installed.

#1 The carrier bearing hard mounted and a slip in the shaft
#2 The bearing mounted on bushings and no slip in the drive shaft.

We have a lot of people out there running this set up with the bearing mounted solid and a solid drive shaft while having soft mounted drive train and no issues. I see this set up having potential for failure knowing the drive train can flex and the shaft and bearing can't.


I hope this helps you guys out.

We are putting together a kit that will include the bearing, mount, drive shaft tube, and a weld yoke. This will be available on our web site and you will be able to pick all of the parts and options that you want from simple drop down boxes. This thread has been good for us to see what you guys want.

Adam
Click to expand...

So in order to make this happen the "right way" i need a bit of a redesign as I was planning on mounting with no slip, no bushing...but drivetrain mounted on poly bushings (at the motor mounts, the back of the trans, and the back of the Atlas).

I don't have a lot of room to add in big bushings, etc. I can however possibly add some flat poly between the 2 sides of your carrier bearing mounting plates. What are your thoughts on (with no slip in the midshaft) cutting down some poly bushings and putting them on the bolts between the two plates that bolt together? Would that suffice as a "bushing", or would that cause too much movement and vibration in the shaft.
 
bbtank45 said:
Adam - Do you know when this kit will be available? I am coming up on needing one soon and ive planned to go this route.
Click to expand...
X2 about to do a motor swap and am probably going to need a 2 piece front shaft now to dodge the trans.
 
slravenel said:
So in order to make this happen the "right way" i need a bit of a redesign as I was planning on mounting with no slip, no bushing...but drivetrain mounted on poly bushings (at the motor mounts, the back of the trans, and the back of the Atlas).

I don't have a lot of room to add in big bushings, etc. I can however possibly add some flat poly between the 2 sides of your carrier bearing mounting plates. What are your thoughts on (with no slip in the midshaft) cutting down some poly bushings and putting them on the bolts between the two plates that bolt together? Would that suffice as a "bushing", or would that cause too much movement and vibration in the shaft.
Click to expand...


I think the poly between the mounts would work out. I wouldn't just cut down the poly bushings and use them as washers though. I would order a piece of UHMW and put in there. The plastic will be firm but move instead of breaking I bet. You could order that from www.mcmaster.com.

I would also say to put this together using 1/2" locking nuts on the mount. That way if any thing did move then you wouldn't be running into a problem.




We should have the new bearing and kits up on the site with in a week or two.
 
Woodlee said:
I think the poly between the mounts would work out. I wouldn't just cut down the poly bushings and use them as washers though. I would order a piece of UHMW and put in there. The plastic will be firm but move instead of breaking I bet. You could order that from www.mcmaster.com.

I would also say to put this together using 1/2" locking nuts on the mount. That way if any thing did move then you wouldn't be running into a problem.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks; that makes perfect sense. What thickness would you recommend for the UMHW - would 1/4" be enough?
 

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