Dana 60 pinion yoke

[Shane_]

Well, second trip out, second u-joint to go boom. So I need to upgrade. The first question is to what? 1330, 1350, 1410? Second question is whats better, straps or u-bolts? BTW, both times my u-joint went boom, the u-bolts were bent out and caps were still in the yoke. Thanks for any help.


BTW, I'm only running 39.5's

 

[Binder]

1410 with U bolts is the best you can get for that. The yoke is a custom part so you will need to have it machined or buy it from a offroad vendor. If you're breaking joints that often you probably have U joint angle issues and no upgraded U joint is going to help.

 

[Corey Y]

I run 1350 Spicer life joints ubolt style, they hold up real well.

 

[TreeClimber]

I've got two heavy rigs, one with 1310s, the other with 1350s. It's been my experience that when someone is spitting out U joints with great regularity, it's due to either bad driveshaft angles (binding), bad yoke (bent, chipped), too much axle wrap (soft springs, no anti-wrap device) or some other type of drama.

I've only broke one 1310 and it weights 4500 +/-, dana 60, 37s, V8, etc...

Before I changed yokes & driveshaft, I'd really, carefully, look at driveline concerns.

That typed, 1350s are all you should ever need with 39s, and U-bolts are stronger than straps.

 

[JOOP]

Shane you probably have bad axle wrap. This is why I got away from leaf springs. If you can eliminate the axle wrap you won't be going through u-joints.

Post up a picture of the bad u-joint. I bet the ends are rolled over.

 

[PORTER]

If you wheel hard with 39in tires a 1310 wont last. I agree with the other guys that you need to look into making sure the obvious problems dont exist(D-line angle,axle wrap,etc). That being said a 1350 with U-bolt upgrade should suffice.

 

[Shane_]

I think all of you are correct....I do have axle wrap, the drive shaft isnt the best angle, and I have a heavy foot. The Jeep did have an anti-wrap bar on the front when I got it, but I removed it do to suspention hendering. I guess I will need to look into putting it back on.

Now when I upgrade to the 1350 yoke, (and fix all the above) do I need to upgrade the yoke on the driveshaft as well? And with what?

Thanks for all the help :awesomework:
Shane.

 

[JOOP]

I think all of you are correct....I do have axle wrap, the drive shaft isnt the best angle, and I have a heavy foot. The Jeep did have an anti-wrap bar on the front when I got it, but I removed it do to suspention hendering. I guess I will need to look into putting it back on.

Now when I upgrade to the 1350 yoke, (and fix all the above) do I need to upgrade the yoke on the driveshaft as well? And with what?

Thanks for all the help :awesomework:
Shane.

Yes unless you want to run a conversion joint. I'm currently running a 1330-1310 u-joint.

 

[Shane_]

Yes unless you want to run a conversion joint. I'm currently running a 1330-1310 u-joint.

Yeah, I'm not sure on the point of running the conversion joint, beacuse you still have the 1310 week point.

 

[JOOP]

Yeah, I'm not sure on the point of running the conversion joint, beacuse you still have the 1310 week point.

I've never broke one. Even when I had bad axle wrap with the leaf springs, the joint always held up. The axle wrap rolled the caps over crushing the bearings. But I never broke the joint. I did once break the u-bolt style straps because of axle wrap. Didn't take much either. I was going up a ledge, slid back and pop.

 

[TreeClimber]

I think all of you are correct....I do have axle wrap, the drive shaft isnt the best angle, and I have a heavy foot. The Jeep did have an anti-wrap bar on the front when I got it, but I removed it do to suspention hendering. I guess I will need to look into putting it back on.

Now when I upgrade to the 1350 yoke, (and fix all the above) do I need to upgrade the yoke on the driveshaft as well? And with what?

Thanks for all the help :awesomework:
Shane.

You're breaking a Front joint, or a Rear joint?

Fronts break with much less frequency than rears. A picture of the suspension under question might help, along with views of the driveline angularity.

Regarding switching to a 1350 or leaving it a 1310.., in order to gain the benefit, I'd switch BOTH yokes on the transfer case, and BOTH yokes on the both driveshafts (all 4 yokes) and buy two new Tom Woods driveshafts. Shouldn't cost you more than... say... $800-1000. (and that's using Tom's shafts which are far cheaper than anyone else, with better warranty too)

If you just switch the one joint that's breaking, all you do is move the weak point a little further away, but will likely still break something else. You need to find out why they're breaking.

 

[Not Jobless]

If you wheel hard with 39in tires a 1310 wont last.

cough cough bull**** cough cough

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Huh, seems I recall you blathering at great length about how spring under suspension is the cats ass and has no wrap Joop... I guess once again you prove yourself to be full of ****. :flipoff:


As silly as it may sound I'd start by fixing any angle and/or wrap issues then go to a yota shaft. The t case output flange can be had for under $150 and the diff is a simple pooperduty flange drilled with the yota pattern. Simple, cheap and fawking burly.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

As silly as it may sound I'd start by fixing any angle and/or wrap issues then go to a yota shaft. The t case output flange can be had for under $150 and the diff is a simple pooperduty flange drilled with the yota pattern. Simple, cheap and fawking burly.

this ^ is correct.

If you have angle problems than forget about a 1350 upgrade, it is the least tollerant to angle of the spicer joints.

The 1410 or toyota is the best solution.

 

[JOOP]

Huh, seems I recall you blathering at great length about how spring under suspension is the cats ass and has no wrap Joop... I guess once again you prove yourself to be full of ****. :flipoff:

No No no stupid.. I was always battling axle wrap. It was YOU guys that were saying since I was SUA I should have no axle wrap. I always was *****ing about u-joints and axle wrap, stretching the axle u-bolts ect..

Go back and look for your self. I NEVER SAID I DONT HAVE AXLE WRAP.

:flipoff:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

No No no stupid.. I was always battling axle wrap. It was YOU guys that were saying since I was SUA I should have no axle wrap. I always was *****ing about u-joints and axle wrap, stretching the axle u-bolts ect..

Go back and look for your self. I NEVER SAID I DONT HAVE AXLE WRAP.

:flipoff:

You called me stupid.... I think I'm gonna cry.. :flipoff:


Hmm go figure I was wrong.

 

[JOOP]

You called me stupid.... I think I'm gonna cry.. :flipoff:


Hmm go figure I was wrong.

I have a fresh box of tissues if you want one. :kiss:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Only if they are puffs, my nose is almost as sensetive as my feelings... :flipoff:

 

[JOOP]

Only if they are puffs, my nose is almost as sensetive as my feelings... :flipoff:

Why yes they do have the lotion additive. :awesomework:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Why yes they do have the lotion additive. :awesomework:

Perfect.