yota brakes

[blue1gen]

so does a guy have to have that load sensor thing on the back of the frame for the rear brake lines? anybody know what im talkin about. i took mine off. now i can't get any presure to the bleeders or at the t on the rearend. i put a new master on it still no presure just a couple drops. any ideas

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

Are you getting pressure to the front??? Did you bench bleed the new master??

 

[zukkev]

Did you completely eliminate it, or just remove the rod???

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

Also what was the reason for removing it? Instead of removing it, you should try tying the end of the arm up under the bed to get maximum braking power to the rear(if that was the problem). I have heard people say that off road, the stock Toyota system doesn't put enough pressure to the rear.

 

[blue1gen]

i m just getin done with the chevy spring and wide axle swap and i thought it looked a hell of a lot cleaner with it gone so today i think im gona clean that stupid thing paint it and put it back in .so should i wire the rod up or take it off

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

i m just getin done with the chevy spring and wide axle swap and i thought it looked a hell of a lot cleaner with it gone so today i think im gona clean that stupid thing paint it and put it back in .so should i wire the rod up or take it off

Definatley wire it up. You will get better braking power.:awesomework:


I am going to clarify this for the reading impaired......

If you are asking if you should remove JUST THE ROD, don't do that, just tie it up. If you are asking about removing the valve all together, go with what Kev said.

 

[blue1gen]

sweet thanx

 

[Skid Mark]

Definatley wire it up. You will get better braking power.:awesomework:

Phillybilly How does have any obstruction in the system help presure...

Leave it off.
bench bleed the master
and run the rear brake line strait
Ive done it a hundred times if your not getting presure at the rear its NOT the load adj if it has been removed

 

[zukkev]

I'd either wire it up, or take the lspv outta there completely, and union the inlet and outlet tubes, or better yet, replace the tube altogether so there's no union at all back there....:awesomework:

 

[Skid Mark]

Definatley wire it up. You will get better braking power.:awesomework:

YOU ARE WRONG in comparison tto removing it

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

YOU ARE WRONG in comparison tto removing it

Wow.... Thanks.:looser:

If he puts it back on and wires it up, he desn't have to union the lines. What's the big deal? You can give him your opinion too without bashing mine.

I simply gave him an easy way of doing it.


Anyhow....I am pretty sure he was asking about removing the ROD not the whole unit. That is what my answer was for.

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

You could also try installing a manual adjusting proportioning valve, like a Willwood proportioning valve.

 

[zukkev]

Ok, from what I've read, wiring it up will give it about 90% full power to rear brakes, and if it is working properly, should give you fluid back at the rear wheels, but if it's stuck closed wiring it will do nothing; there are folks out there that have eliminated it altogether as suggested previously, but potential issues with braking in slippery situations make it a safety concern...I think the best solution for this is to eliminate the LSPV, and purchase an aftermarket adjustable prop valve & mount it up by the M/C, that way you can dial in the amt of rear braking power you want...

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

Ok, from what I've read, wiring it up will give it about 90% full power to rear brakes, and if it is working properly, should give you fluid back at the rear wheels, but if it's stuck closed wiring it will do nothing; there are folks out there that have eliminated it altogether as suggested previously, but potential issues with braking in slippery situations make it a safety concern...I think the best solution for this is to eliminate the LSPV, and purchase an aftermarket adjustable prop valve & mount it up by the M/C, that way you can dial in the amt of rear braking power you want...

x2:awesomework: You dont want your rear tires locking up on you when you are trying to stop on a steep hill climb.

 

[zukkev]

x2:awesomework: You dont want your rear tires locking up on you when you are trying to stop on a steep hill climb.

I presume you mean downhill...I was referring more to snowy conditions, but yeah, any slippery situation...

 

[Yotakid]

I kept the stock unit and just cut the arm off so there was only a couple inches. Then I just used a zip tie to pull it up till I got it where I wanted it. Been working great for the last couple of years.

 

[zukkev]

I kept the stock unit and just cut the arm off so there was only a couple inches. Then I just used a zip tie to pull it up till I got it where I wanted it. Been working great for the last couple of years.

This is another option, if it is properly working to begin with....after a couple yrs, it's probably frozen there by now anyway!!!:haha:

 

[PHILLBILLY1]

I presume you mean downhill...I was referring more to snowy conditions, but yeah, any slippery situation...

Yeah, I was thinkin either way. I was thinkin when you are climbing, your weight is transferred more to the rear, and thus your stoppng power is less in the front, and more in the rear. With the increased brake pressure to the rear, couldn't that cause the rear to lock up causing and undesireable experience? :corn:

 

[blue1gen]

ive allready removed it completly and that dosn't work and im broke so the best bet would be to put it back and do somthing with the rod like remove it or wire it up right

 

[zukkev]

Yup....quite possible...:awesomework: