Stokes flavored CJ build

Stokes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
125
to those who know me i know i swore i would never build a jeep....couldn pass up the deal:;
Picked up this 79 CJ7 for 1500 last year and so far have sold off all the running gear and made my money back! heck yeah! to my suprise we towed the rig home then noticed it had a cut down D60 rear which returned a pretty penny.

Build plans include:
full EFI'd 460
NP435 trans
NP203/205
Ford D60 front/14bolt rear
3link front/Tri 4 link rear
42iroks on Trailready's
possibly full hydro? (PSC?)
Coilovers? (Kings, Fox?)
non the less heres where it started
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rear 60 hiding underneath
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turbo350/D20
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Started cutting/cleaning
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linned front frame with 3/16 steel to beef things up
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more cleaning cleaning cleaning (thanks drew for snapping pics)
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welded up the dozen holes through the firewall. was too lazy to go get my hood and cooked my face good ha. but looked way better once primer and paint.
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at this point the rig was moved to the garage.

Started tearin into the 460. paid 750 for it out of a 89 F350. was told it only had 15k on the rebuild.
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cleaned up
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how nice of a sight it was to find that the guy was being honest on sayin it was rebuilt, SPOTLESS inside
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once again i was very pleased on how clean it was
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the "do not bump!" table haha
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more wire wheel work.
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7" milwaukee grinders kick butt
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Nothin runs like a Deere :D
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motor mounts fabbed. used 1.25 poly bushings for all mounts
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sittin pretty
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fenders mocked up, cool to know fenders still fit. hood closes with like 1/2" to spare too
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headers will need massaging to make work but they do fit.
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I have cutt the drivers side header up already to re-weld so it hugs the motor closer to make room for the upper link
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wish i had taken a photo of all the work done under the dash here, custom cut all my pushrods for the clutch and brake MC with brass bushings put at all joints for a smooth push. Corvette MC used, we shal see how much i like it.
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203 and 205 mounted. all adapters came from Jeds machining and i have to say im quite impressed with his work. also put a short shaft setup from jeds on the np435, shortened up the trans by 6"
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crappy photos due to a crappy camera. 90% of welding done on rig is/will be Gtaw. main crossmember between the 203/205
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tucks in there nicely
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bent up shifters for the twin stick setup, put both shifters on a pivot pull to keep things simple with the shifters up top.
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what i do not have a photo of is there are two more mounts to keep the drivetrain stable, built a mount to bolt onto the PTO plate of the x-fer case and another to attach to the dogbone mount on the other side of the 205, pretty confident they arnt going anywhere. which is nice considering my bronco used to go through motor mounts once a season haha

floor all hacked up to make both the tranny fit in the tunnel plus to clock the 205 like i wanted to
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cutt up the grill to get my fancy griffin radiator to fit, made a cradle for it
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frontend mocked up, axle not cut yet.
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doing everthing i can to keep it this low! thats my main motivation to go hydro is for more space to keep her sittin low.

yup, too wide
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Torched off all brackets and ground hosing smooth, pass side knuckle is ready to be hammered off
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standing it up after i tacked the knuckle on was a bad idea, now all the dirt that was sitting inside my diff tubes is sitting inside my ARB:rolleyes: oh well
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axle now sits at 65 wms to wms (cutt 4" off). truss tacked up for the top link.
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thats what i have for pics at the moment, currently working on figurin out what will work good for links

btw, how do i copy my Excel page to post up for you guys to see?
 
Easyest way to do it would be Alt Print Screen, copy it into paint, save it, etc.

I have to ask, why are you going narrower? Arn't you gonna be getting into your links/springs at full turn?

Looks awesome though!:awesomework:
 
Easyest way to do it would be Alt Print Screen, copy it into paint, save it, etc.

I have to ask, why are you going narrower? Arn't you gonna be getting into your links/springs at full turn?

Looks awesome though!:awesomework:


depends on the tires but i was wondering the same thing. im at 67 WMS 39.5s barely fits.

looks good:cool:
 
Well cuttin the front end down some was mostly was to match the cj being so narrow, the full width stuff stuck out so far. I have intentions of leaving this thing tabbed to drive on random occasions. I was figurine it would have a better turning radius than my bronco was with the 40's and leaf springs (late model ford wide spring perch spacing). Ha I could tell ya what the bs on those trailreadys are.
 
Easyest way to do it would be Alt Print Screen, copy it into paint, save it, etc.

I have to ask, why are you going narrower? Arn't you gonna be getting into your links/springs at full turn?

Looks awesome though!:awesomework:

Oh and btw thanks for the info! I'll post up what I have figured, to keep the thing as low as it sits on stands I'll have to ditch the steering box for hydro, would I be push in my luck legally with full hydro? After what I have been reading about running a well balanced setup I'm not so concerned with it driving well, PSC has my attention but are there other opts? Thanks again
 
Oh and btw thanks for the info! I'll post up what I have figured, to keep the thing as low as it sits on stands I'll have to ditch the steering box for hydro, would I be push in my luck legally with full hydro? After what I have been reading about running a well balanced setup I'm not so concerned with it driving well, PSC has my attention but are there other opts? Thanks again

Howe performance makes a realy nice hydro sys
 
heres what im lookin at tryin for the front, probably will shoot for more of a anti-dive number of 80-90 but its a start.
3link1.jpg
 
heres some updates, managed to mock up some links to get a idea of whats gonna work.
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and heres how it looks in the calculator
paintlink.jpg


anyone wanna throw there two cents in? good? bad?
thanks:D
 
heres some updates, managed to mock up some links to get a idea of whats gonna work.
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and heres how it looks in the calculator
paintlink.jpg


anyone wanna throw there two cents in? good? bad?
thanks:D

i have no clue what your color diagram says or shows, sure wish i did though
 
i have no clue what your color diagram says or shows, sure wish i did though

some of the big heads over on pirate have made some link calculators to help predict how your suspension will respond as far as roll or anti sqwat/dive ect. really quite a useful tool to have!
 
Is there any reason why i should not consider using FOA Coilovers? i have been around pricing things out and i want to stay on a reasonable budget, and its very apealing that the FOA coilovers run at a much better price due to being cast instead of machined i have herd, so ajustment is done with a clamp collar like thingy instead of threaded lockrings? opinons?
 
For your needs and any type of wheeling we do, FOAs would be great. If you KOH, then I'd go Fox. Search pirate a little on FOA and you'll see what I mean.
 
heres a look at what i have going for the rear, sorry no new photos at the moment due to the camera dying on me. but heres the link calc. critiques?
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im also in need of some tube tapping done, anyone lookin for alittle side work that has the stuff to tapp for my links? 1", 1.25", and 7/8". ill start another thread with that question to get more attention:D
 
i guess it would have helped if i had posted the right link layout photo eh? here it is
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and here it is layed out under the rig.
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also i finished my upper link bracket for the front, welded the diff truss, plus worked out the trac bar, ill get more photos when its daylight
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102" wheelbase feels small coming from a stretched foolsize bronco, but hey i didnt want to comp cut it and i do not have enough time to stretch the body is 102" it is :eeek:
how it sits the way i have it layed out.
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its gonna be mean :redneck:
 
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