Recent content by 1996cc

Maybe it’s a regional phrase, but riding it for dirt bikes, or a giveaway that you drive a side by side. I do drive/wheel my Jeep as much as I can… Last was 3 weeks ago-

A whopping 8500. Just bought it with 7500 on it. Popped its wheeling cherry last weekend. It's way more capable than my ZJ, XJ, or TJ ever where. And my XJ was on bias Swampers, locked front and rear (and I didn't care about bouncing it off trees). Plus the JK will do 80+ on the freeway smooth...

My 3.6 liter has way more power than either of my 4.0's ever had. Time will tell if they have the same reliability.

Air soft pellets worked great in my 33" bias swampers too and from the trail. But in my 31" BFG ATs on my daily driver, I hated them- was better with no weights at all. They work fine when up to speed, but when you brake, turn a corner, speed up, slow down, etc., they take a second to...

I got 16-18 mpg out of my chipped 1996 powerstroke. I could get 21 if I stayed at 55-60 mph, but I only do that on 2 lane roads...

I like the OME one on my wife's ZJ.

I have 4 harbor frieght orange ones, that way I never have to change the wheel. It is awesome, and haven't had one fail yet. I tried the even cheaper blue ones, and did burn that one up. Buy them on sale with a coupon and You could buy 5 for the price of your one....

I know you aren't into them, but I put this on mine. Cheapest, easiest option I found. http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=2&parentid=1000&catID=1075+&part=0

a 1" drop XJ pitman arm is identical to a stock ZJ pitman arm

A $100 is a $100, but it's not always about price...

95's are PSDs! Sounds like you have the stock flywheel. It is a piece of crap dual mass contraption. Replace it and the clutch with a LUK single mass (regular) flywheel. You will have a real clutch, easier pedal effort and all around better set up. www.thedieselstop.com has all the info you...

Stock BS is 5". I know 31"s rub, so 32"s would be worse...

If you've never fully spooled it out, you should. They need to be tensioned on to the drum under a load. If you spooled it say half way out now and tried to use it for real, the top wraps of cable would tighten down under the looser wraps below and create a nice big mess for you.

A hi-lift jack is an easier bead breaker, and much more controlled. Tire/wheel on ground, valve core out, jack on tire, lift up a vehicle, bead pops, flip over and repeat. I can swap 4 tires over quicker than you can go to Les Schwab and get it done. Oh yea, and once you have the tire bars = free.