Broken toyota drive shaft

I broke the CV joint on my taco yesterday and I'm wondering if anyone make a stronger CV joint or shaft to replace the toyota stuff?
I'm thinking of doing away with the CV joint all together sence it's a dedicated trail rig any thoughts on that?

Any chance the CV bottomed out causing it to break? The IFS CVs do not have very much travel. I would check with the suspension at full droop and see if the CV is binding.

If you just want to replace it anyways, a standard u-joint will be stronger than a CV.

When i first got my junk together, I used a stock front toyota shaft in my rear, first 15 minutes of the day, the cv broke, replaced it, broke again! had that crap cut off, went with a single joint, no more problems!

No this is on the rear and I was the reason it broke lol
It was in the truck when I bought it so I'm not sure if its part of the original truck or not I just want stronger !

Re: Re: Broken toyota drive shaft

What part broke?

Only thing stronger will be a 1350 cv or one of the larger high dollar aftermarket options

Mine was in the rear to! the factory cv dont like that much flexin! it binds up and will break.

It was the CV joint see pics.

Chuck19 said:

It was the CV joint see pics.

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I was on my phone and pics weren't showing up

Looks like it could have been caused by binding, maybe the rear end dropped out real far?

Sorry I can see them I don't what to tell you!

bluetoy said:

Any chance the CV bottomed out causing it to break? The IFS CVs do not have very much travel. I would check with the suspension at full droop and see if the CV is binding.

If you just want to replace it anyways, a standard u-joint will be stronger than a CV.

Click to expand...

the later model CVs come on the rear factory (Tacoma/3rd gen and later 4Runner) actually have as much or MORE angle than the old straight axle CVs.

96+ Toyotas do not have CVs on the front driveshaft

I used 4th gen 4runner rear driveshafts to build the shafts on the Gremlin.

I checked all the CVs that I had when I was building them, and an 85 model CV was capable of ~32 degrees, IFS front CV ~22 degress, and the 4th gen Runner & Tacoma rear cv would do ~35 degrees.

I don't think it was the angle that got it it was the double low and 4th gear 39 in stickies lol the angle is not to bad on the back shaft when it's setting level.

Chuck19 said:

I don't think it was the angle that got it it was the double low and 4th gear 39 in stickies lol the angle is not to bad on the back shaft when it's setting level.

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Yeah that would probably do it

I'd weld another one on and keep going

and build a spare rear shaft.

complete rear driveshafts are only like $12 at the pull a part

Ok thanks I just didn't know if there was a stronger version I could use I think I will do away with the CV joint anyway.

TG creeper joints are pretty tough if you decide to eliminate the cv joint

Chuck19 said:

Ok thanks I just didn't know if there was a stronger version I could use I think I will do away with the CV joint anyway.

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I'm pretty sure I have some Toyota CVs that don't have that big hole in the middle of the H cage.

That looks like where your broke through at.

Should have bought my sami and the driveshaft wouldnt have broke haha!!!!!!! Good lookin truck man. I'm with these guys, go with a single u-joint

zukimaster said:

When i first got my junk together, I used a stock front toyota shaft in my rear, first 15 minutes of the day, the cv broke, replaced it, broke again! had that crap cut off, went with a single joint, no more problems!

Click to expand...

This ^^