Bumps Stops and how you have them set up....

Re:

Great idea!

I can get them for you too if you want!

Look like some aluminum rod drilled and tapped. Would be easy to make you own.

I have used these on several buggies with great results http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/347598-alternative-bling-bling-air-nitrogen-bumps.html

waste of money, a piece of 2" tube with a rubber bump on the end will do the same job till you can get airbumps

TacomaJD said:

Rear center limit straps are great and need to be close to tight at ride height. This is a big help on preventing the rearend from unloading when going off of steep hills or ledges.

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i wouldn't run a center strap unless you've got some kind of unloading or rockhumping problem. if you jump your rig or bounce the rearend way off the ground with that setup it will send your A-hole straight thru the bottom of your seat when you land :****:

That will never happen in my rig. Everybody's wheeling style is different too. My rear diff is able to droop about 2, maybe close to 3" from static ride height before the strap pulls tight. A center limit strap works good on my rig because:

1.) prevents suspension unloading going down steep stuff, similar to how my suck down winch prevents the front from unloading when going up steep stuff.

2.) The more the diff droops out, driveshaft angle worsens. Ideally I don't see how limiting center droop could ever be a bad idea. Especially if bound up in a gnarly rock obstacle that puts your drivetrain in a bad bind, you don't want your diff to be able to droop way down, increasing driveshaft angles, becoming more prone to breaking a u joint under lots of torque and tire grip.

But I don't have a go fast rig, so I won't be jumping **** and needing long travel suspension absorbtion...as neither will most folks in the crawling world.

When I had the Sammy I had a bad habit of tightening my rear suck down winch. Turns out most of the time it crawled better with slack in it. The only time it really helped was super off camber side to side stuff where the rear air shocks would unload...

More relevant to the thread. A lot if cool bumps tops can be salvaged from pull a part. Most rear pickup bumps have a metal plate that can be welded straight to your tube.

TacomaJD said:

That will never happen in my rig. Everybody's wheeling style is different too. My rear diff is able to droop about 2, maybe close to 3" from static ride height before the strap pulls tight. A center limit strap works good on my rig because:

I have air shocks

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I fixed that for you

I think what Neal is talking about is if the shock cannot extend due to center limit strap, the there is not enough uptravel to absorb a hard hit from a jump or drop.

Here's how I done mine. If I had it to do over I would of made some cans that an air bump would of fit into so I could just upgrade the bump stop and not have to cut everything back off. Sometimes i can't think two steps ahead.

^^^ basically how mine are made.

I'm gonna order some bump stop cans for my buggy build an do the dom cheap poly bushing on the end for now but do I need to run 2.0 or 2.5 bumps on the front of a bouncer? (5.3/th350/205) with plans of a mild built 6.0 later 43/44in tires