Front driveshaft options

I'm getting into the final stages of my V8 swap. It's a 94' Toyota ext. cab, linked rear with leafs up front. GM D60/14B, full hydro, etc....
I've installed a 6.0/4L80E/Atlas.

The problem I'm having with the front DS seems to be quite common. When going from the Atlas to the 60, I'm getting VERY close to the trans pan. I currently have a Toyota Flange on the axle, with a Non-cv 1350 on the case. At ride height the angle isn't too bad, but gets substantially worse as it droops. I have always ran a square shaft up front with the yota stuff, but my trans/cases were a lot longer. The square stuff is way too big for my new drivetrain.
Due to how my front tube is, I can't push the axle out without a lot of rework. I really don't want to cut the mount back out and offset the motor either.


So the question is, are there any good options as far as small diameter front driveshafts? Junkyard shafts? New?

Im running 2"x.25" for clearance...
got pics of your setup?

Carrier bearing to use a 2 piece shaft.

I just don't have the length to run a 2 PC shaft. I don't have pics of the new drivetrain, but this should give you and idea of the wheelbase.

My new buggy will have a 2"x.25 front drive shaft I hope it holds up I'm trying to avoid a 2 piece myself. The only problem I had is finding parts that will work with that size tube.

tommy450r said:

My new buggy will have a 2"x.25 front drive shaft. The only problem I had is finding parts that will work with that size tube.

Click to expand...

I figure this will be my problem as well. I've seen a few wrangler shafts I may be able to cut down, but they always seem to be 1310.

That doesnt quite help....

Zayne found a place to source the parts for his driveshaft and had a machine shop mod the parts and tube to fit...

On another build, i ran 2"x.25" and sleeved with 1.75x.25 around the trans back up to 2"x.25" to the front yoke.

This is redneck but I took a pto shaft extension an cut the female splines off about 1/2 inch from the male splines an turned it down to a press fit in the dom then I took a 1350 slip yoke cut the tube off of it an opened the center up as much as I could to make it press fit on the male splines.

That may not make since but I got pics if anybody needs em. I ended up with about 12 inches of splines for the slip joint an the splines are almost 1 3/4" so it should hold up.

Post them up if you would....

Ok I will ASAP

Started with 2 of these. The one in the pic I turned down for a press fit in the 2" tube

I made the other press fit the PTO shaft extension I cut up

Here is the female end I cut off the PTO shaft ext. An turned down to fit the 2" tube

An here it is all together

The shaft on the far left is what I started with an the splines are more like 1.5" not 1.750 like I said





https://www.google.com/#q=pto+shaft+extension&facrc=_&imgrc=LSIHWzRjx6jYsM%253A%3Bundefined%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fdoublehh.com%252Fproduct_images%252FPTOAdapter.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.yesterdaystractors.com%252Fcgi-bin%252Fviewit.cgi%253Fbd%253Dnboard%2526th%253D860771%3B648%3B227

My only worry is welding the cast yoke to the splined shaft

They should be forged, not cast. Just treat it like mild steel.

TTB50 longside axle shaft makes a great skinny driveshaft, 1350 yokes on both ends

I had the same problem, mine is a tight fight between the trans pan and header, I got a piece of 1.5, 1/4 wall dom, and Chattanooga Driveline welded the flanges on.

Looks like I'll be going the DOM route. I'll just have to have my yokes turned down. I may also have to limit my droop, to keep from binding.