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Question for a machinist

Toddy said:
Shrink fit it. Dry ice on part and heat on sleeve. Sleeve about .001 smaller then the part. Will fall on and can't get it off after it normalizes.

That's exactly what I was planning.
 
chembree said:

I sell Belzona mainly to industrial clients for my day job. It should work for what he is trying to do the key here is prep. We've had shafts that have been repaired and running for 16+ years.

As far as the tires yes I've patched tires with it before and it does excellent we sell it to alot of mines/quarries to patch those huge dump truck tires. It also works excellent on my waders haha
 
Here's a little project I got going, bought a lathe from work they got rid of it because it had some wear on the bed ways close to the chuck. So I made a spacer/adapter for a old 3 jaw chuck I had laying around
 

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ldwoodruff said:
Here's a little project I got going, bought a lathe from work they got rid of it because it had some wear on the bed ways close to the chuck. So I made a spacer/adapter for a old 3 jaw chuck I had laying around

Clever. Shortens the bed length a bit but saves a lathe. I wonder if that much weight overhanging will affect spindle bearing life. Probably not appreciably. Good deal.
 
Prob shortin the bearing life alittle but for what I paid for it I could replace 50 bearings I think!!! Lol :****: seems to be a good tight lathe. I just wonder how it's going to act at HIGH Rpm's!!!
 
Ages later I've finally finished this repair / project and the chuck seems to spin very true now. But I have come to realize that the jaws are warped, something I understand is very common. That is to say that the inside of the jaws close tighter than the outside. I've read about true-ing jaws by opening them to clamp a round piece on the outside and using a boring bar to take a slight cut on the insides of the jaws. Think this is worth doing? Any other advice?
 
Re:

I have done what you are talking about with what they call "soft jaws". They are meant to be bored out to a size to get the best clamp on a specific part. I have never tried ot on regular chuck jaws though. I know that i have hit them with a tool a few times when working up close to the chuck, amd they were very hard. So im not sure how boring them will work.

You will have to have carbide at the very least to cut it, but more than likely it will take ceramic to cut them

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