• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Track bar questions

JPTHING

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2006
Messages
451
Location
Oceanside, Ca
So my YJ has both a front, and rear trackbar. Most fullsize rigs do not have these, so why should I install a bracket for them, and use them? I am going to use both Z-boxes, and Revolvers, so is my trackbar going to limit my up/down travel, or are these necessary for my application. I am sure that this is a stupid question, but with my XJ, on another Forum, they all advised to get away from the trackbar. Most suggested tri 3-link, tri 4-link etc. Thanks in advance.
 
Well it has a Procomp 4" spring lift, spring over.
 

Attachments

  • DSC002011.JPG
    DSC002011.JPG
    75.8 KB · Views: 71
You can see the trackbar in the pic. It is not attached, nor do I have shocks, this thing rides better than it did when I had just the 4" lift.
 
Rear you can usually get rid of. I would strongly reccomend an antiwrap setup though.

Front you really need it to keep the axle centered as you steer. Especially with taller tires and suspension. Not a hard thing to build at all.

Just a quick note if you are building your own, you get what you pay for in connecting points, if you are using Tie Rod Ends you should be fine, but with Heims you really get what you pay for. Expect to pay upwards of $50 to $70 for heims that are worth thier salt.
 
I have a SOA '95 YJ w/ 35" tires and I took my track bars off and haven't looked back.

I do have 6 leaf spring packs, in which to be honest, are TOOO stiff. I'd like to get a traction bar/anti-wrap setup in the rear (different from a track bar) and go with Grand Waggy springs.

I run most of the time without my front sway bar connected and I don't have any track bars.

I also drive my jeep on the freeway and it was for a long time a daily driver in this same configuration.

I would say that the jeep does get kinda squirrly at 80mph, but other than the bouncy-bouncy.. it drives just fine in my opinion.
 
Dear JPthng;
Keep the track bars or toss the trackbars? This is a question which I've read 100's, maybe even 1000's of times on the Net and I can tell you right now there's no easily defined answer to the question. There are a myriad of factors in which to consider first. First, trackbars will hinder articulation, in fact, with Revolver shackles and Z-bars, along with your stock t-bars, I doubt that you will notice an appreciable increase in articulation. That's how much t-bars limit the articulation, my friend. Some offroaders have fabbed telescopic t-bars with pins so they can be discoed on the trail and re-pinned for onroad use, however I spend enough time crawling around the dirt and mud under my junk as it is, and I definitely don't need another reason to crawl underneath it, so I opted to run sans t-bars. I am also SOA with 35" tires on my YJ and it runs great. The biggest determining factor on whether or not a rig needs t-bars is the leafsprings. If they have a high torsional resistance, that is if they cannot be twisted easily, then you probably have no use for t-bars, but if they have a low torsional resistance, then you might wish to consider using them. If you take a look at crowd running Iron Pigs (the FJ-40 which is the only REAL Toyota 4X4, btw) with SOA, you'll probably notice that none of them use t-bars, because the stock FJ-40 springs are stiff enough that t-bars don't help anything. The best advice that I can give you on this subject is try out your rig without the t-bars CAUTIOUSLY at first, then gradually *learn* the handling differences that you WILL experience and then after a period of time, you can decide whether to install t-bars or leave them off. Ultimately, the choice is yours, but from the description that you've posted of your rig, I'd say offhand that you probably won't need them.
Your friend;
LAMAR
 
KarlVP said:
Rear you can usually get rid of. I would strongly reccomend an antiwrap setup though.

Front you really need it to keep the axle centered as you steer. Especially with taller tires and suspension. Not a hard thing to build at all.

Just a quick note if you are building your own, you get what you pay for in connecting points, if you are using Tie Rod Ends you should be fine, but with Heims you really get what you pay for. Expect to pay upwards of $50 to $70 for heims that are worth thier salt.

Actually, I am going to do 6" long spring perches, and use the flat 3/4" add-a-leaf off my MJ, it won't even touch the springs, unless they completely compress, or twist, which should lessen the wrapping. And with it being flat, it shouldn't affect my suspension movement.
 
Last edited:
Top