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44044 Rancho's, something along the lines of a old Grand Wagoneer, of J10.

Try here: www.westtexasoffroad.com

Do a search for Redneck Ram, I think they are in TX, and they sell a decent kit, a lot less expensive than the AGR units.

I'd bet there are stock parts for that. I've seen older toyota p/u's coinverted to campers, that had a factory looking FF rear axle. Just a thought, never really examined one up close though.

I got one 12" pusher, and two 10" pullers, the only reason I stuck the 12" on there was the "just in case" scenario. They cool the engine just fine, and I'm not running any shroud.

As to an anit theft device, both ideas will work, but I'd say one is simpler, and the other is better.:beer:

I agree, cut a 1" piece of tube, tack that down over the bolt head, and then tack a cover over the tube. That way you effectively enclosed the bolt head, but you aren't heating up the bolt, effecting it's strength.

IMHO, anything 4" or more in lift and you should get an SYE. If you raise the engine too much, you are curing the rear driveline angle, but making the front worse.

x4. :awesomework:

4.0 ltr HO's first came out with the 91's. As said above get a new pilot bushing for the back of the crank / tranny input. The wiring may be different for the CPS hook up. but if you just swapping motor to motor, I'd bet it all plugs in without any needed mods. If you need to change the...

I'd make it out of something like 3/16" rect tubing. Make it with a face that angles down, thicker at the top than the bottom. Look at some of the designs that incorporate a roller onto the lower edge.

Well it depends, exactluy what do you want your bumper to do? Is it a place to install a winch, is it meant as a place to protect the sheetmetal of your vehicle. Or is it being used as afeeler guage on narrow and tight trails. Tells us waht you want, and we'll give you ideas on what you need.

I never believed that 50% to each wheel rule, the torque is not split amongst the axles, nor wheel, torque is evenly applied as an output of the driveline. Torque is not split either from one wheel to the other, nor is it split from one axle to the other. Torque is evenly applied from the...

If you can mount it inside, so the weather doesn't rust up the pins and latching mechanism. Hi-Lift are great when they work correctly, but can knock you for a loop when they don't.

The rhino liner in my Dodge is great. If I was to do an interior, color such as gray or tan, so as not to show dirt would be an idea. Black will only look clean when new, or wet, just an FYI. The thicker applied the better, plus adds as a sound barrier.:cool:

Do it right and get a limiting strap, with the top end mounted slightly behind the axle.

I bet it's the battery, it won't hold a charge, you got a dead cell.

35"s are about the limit for a D30, you should upgrade to some better shafts like folks have said before. And realistiacly a front locker should make your axle shafts last longer. Since it's locked you should be able to get thru opbstacles with less crazy wheel spin as compared to being open.

Farm implement paint, it should be near $25 per gallong at your local tractor store, regardless of color.

The E350 MC should push enough fluid, but you'll need to get an adjustable proportioning valve to meter from front to rear. I've heard of some folks not running porportioning valves at all. I've heard of some having luck with the stock YJ MC and valve. Did you use 1 ton calipers? or 1/2...