Search results for query: *

You've probably answered this question earlier Mike but what welder are you using for all the aluminum work? I really like your approach on different parts and its making me itch to wanna do some myself....

Had the similar issue with mine awhile back. Just gotta work through the quirks C clip drain out of the oil or is it MIA?

Sounds like a bind in your shift assembly.

Hex style here and she's a sloppy bitch and like you mentioned at times it can be a pain to get locked correctly... Splined is the next route for me

I ran my shackles like that for quite awhile with no real issues. When I moved my front axle forward I put more angle on them and prefer that more now. Seems like my suspension is more live on the front especially with down travel. Thought is the shackle is now moving rather than already being...

My 2 piece front vibrates like a SOB anything past 30mph in 4wd. Rear 2wd, front drive in neutral, with front hubs locked I don't even notice it. It's the angles i'm working with for the flipped 300 to clear my clutch fork on the 4 speed. I've debated doing the 1350 axle shaft lately as well...

Always enjoy your builds crash. Its good the rig finally found the right hands to figure things out. Keep the updates comin!!!

I think your going to have. It's not a difficult tear down. These cases are pretty simple

If you plan on expanding bumping it to 70% to save a buck it will bite you. If your pinching pennies on conduit price, oversize it with the thought of expansion and run it in PVC. Take your time and make it look nice. Your going to need a grounding conductor. You'll be buying ground for pig...

Agreed! :beer: I own an ms290 with the 20" bar it's an amazing saw.

No real advice to add but if it was me I would be shooting emails to the guys at radesigns http://www.radesignsproducts.com/ They seem to have the aw4/a340 shifting game down and could probably point you in the right direction. Its a ways away but I plan on using the aw4 trans in my build...

:haha::haha:

You get what you pay for. The fass pump looks good but not too sure on the ebay vp44... I personally wouldnt do it. Im not sure if rebuilding it is possible, cant see how it isnt, but that is another option you might look into. H&H diesel in Fife might be a number to call to get you pointed in...

Im no mechanic by trade and dont claim to be but constantly working on that damn 24valve dodge has taught a poor boy a thing or two and one thing for sure is I wish I wouldve waited and bought a 12valve... just read the earlier posts and yup sounds like the vp44 **** the bed. that sucks man

before you jump to conclusions make absolute sure its the vp44. Put at least 10 gallons in the tank, I dont care what your gauge on your dash is reading. The sending level unit from the factory on 24valves in known to be false.... ask me how i know. once thats done bump start DONT TURN IT...

Right on. When you get it going again and still cant swing the new pump if your ever in Shelton let me know and ill give you the one I replaced to keep in your truck just in case this happens again.

replacing that pump with an aftermarket unit is not an upgrade its ESSENTIAL on the 98-02 24valves. Im running an frame mounted airdog150 with mechanical isspro gauge and the low pressure fuel light did it within 1week of owning my 02 CTD and the truck only had 48k on it when i bought it. Ive...

lets hope its just your lift pump.... you obviously havent done the swap yet so Its time to upgrade from that stock ticking time bomb pump and get something worth a damn before it eats your vp44 also. If you havent read the wallet robbing horror stories of the stock lift pump on 24valves i...

Yup .030

Right on! looks good. I built my own highline fenders on my YJ and the only thing I dont like about them is the rear fender just doesnt quite match the look of the raised front. I got a plan in works to fix that just waiting on the funds. Keep the pics coming looks like a fun project...