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Looking good! :beer: Starting on my new one in the next week or so :redneck:

So its been a couple months, another Werock Comp in AZ, some trail wheeling and this thing is still putting a grin on my face everytime I take it out. We had some technical issues at the AZ comp, blew a steering ram apart, and ripped a tire spilling fluid and getting us DQ'd on a course...

Your truck, I'd buy the universal harness. On my buggy I wired it all from scratch since it was very custom.

Bilstein, on a tube thing.

Its a good color scheme. Hard to pick something no one else has so I gave up...and went with what I had wanted from the get go.

pro-pain. is how it should be spelt. Buy as many bottles as you can for when you on trips.

Thanks guys, the rig did great in Oroville. We low scored a couple courses, we were in 6th place and were ahead of Shannon Campbell by 5 points going into the last course before the shoot out. A4 the Terminator. We had to climb and drop the small side then go around and hit the large side...

Posted this run from the other day. Might as well link to the thread. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50152

Was looking at the buggy today and realized I never showed how we did the Jack mount. Taran @ Big Country Customs hooked me up with a nice Radflo Jack. I really like this jack, works very well and effortlessly. Biggest problem the Jack is finding a home for it on a promod buggy with go fast...

Your better off with the bigger pattern and bolts. Another bonus typically the bigger patterned flange yokes allow more angle before binding when matched with the proper driveshaft yoke.

look up crash locking on pirate. if you want to lower the life expectancy of your ARB go ahead and lock it under throttle.

Straight line or even a bit turned as long as your moving slow and not under load is ok...

have put the Walbro pick ups in my last 3 builds including the new buggy and will keep using them for as long as I can buy them. Only other way to do it is a fairly deep baffled sump.

The rubber ragjoint is to stop vibration, the plastic is to tighten up the slip joint and to help is slide and collapse in an accident. If it was tight metal on metal it could rust solid with time and cause issues when it needed to slip.

One shitty trail picture.

That day putting it together is a blur but I'm pretty sure I'm running the outer rubber "seal" by the stub shaft yoke... at least what Dana thought was a seal when they made these things.

some day shots.

Well I finally got a chance to take this thing out. No action shots it was dark out, just a couple of pictures by the fire. Took it out on some Forestry roads for some hot laps and hopefully broke the gears in and got the brakes worked in. This thing stops awesome. Running the Hawk performance...

Wierd, my US made superiors fit right in... :redneck:

Ott ends will probably be 3/4" fine thread. ES150's