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I have a cut up jeep ZJ buggy running an Astro van steering box that I drilled and tapped for hydro assist myself. I'm using a stock jeep pump with the orfice drilled out and a standard old red tractor supply ram. It has every bit as much power as full hydro, but it is noticeably slower than...

That was definately a helpful video, how fast can you turn the wheel with that setup? I know thats a tough question because how fast is fast enough and all, but is it fast enough to keep up when you turn quickly like you would to avoid hitting a tree/obstacle?

I imagine the pump has to run all the time for full hydro, it seems pretty unlikely you would have adequate steering response with the pump cycling on and off. There would be little restriction through the orbital valve back to the reservoir when you werent actively turning so it wouldnt be...

The right stuff is in fact the right stuff, I put that **** on everything. Just make sure its the gray instead of the black. For some reason the black stuf just doesnt work nearly as well.

Glad to see this thing moving! Thats a big motivator to get everything buttoned up and get to wheeling.

1480 Shaft ears went first best I can tell, I kept the factory lockouts thinking they'd be an easily replaceable componet and they'd fail first. Apparently the factory lockouts are pretty strong though because it ripped the ears of the stock 1480 shaft and did nothing to the lockout. The actual...

And then..... there was less talkin and more wheelin! Its been out a few times since I built the new tranny. The only thing I'd change would be RCV's and drive slugs in the front axle, but that was the plan all along. In case anyone wonders, 05+ Superduty factory lockouts are stronger than 1480...

The high RPM sealing situation is caused by lack of adequate ventillation. I dont know the exact situation but I imagine its due to using multiple feet of 1/4" or 3/8" hose and expecting it to be able to keep up with the blowby created by extended periods of WOT. Unless there is a restriction on...

Why not just remove the PCV system alltogether. Both my rigs have the pcv valves removed and 3/4" hose run from both of the valve covers to a location below the oil pan. Seems like all the loops of hose and check valves are added complexity without any real benefit. I understand the PCV system...

Start with a T56, take 1-4 out and send to www.Libertysgears.com to have them faceplated. Then buy one of those H patern to sequential shifters like you can find at www.S1sequential.com and youre all set. I figure you could have it done for about $8k and it'd be about as close as you can get...

So hopefully the solution to this problem is a Sonnax Smart Shell, it replaces the factory HD 6 clutch 3-4 clutch pack with a 9 clutch stack for a huge increase in holding power. I was hoping to get by without this $600 upgrade but as you can see the "HD" 6 clutch 3-4 pack was nowhere near...

So apparently a stock 6 clutch 3-4pack is not up to the task of holding back 500ish hp but I have a plan to remedy this.

I only have one CV, the rear driveshaft. The whole rear driveshaft is just a stock Superduty front driveshaft from the junkyard, nothing special about it at all. I was under the impression that they were pretty tough as long as they werent over extended.

Yall gonna have to wait till I get some RCV's before I'm willing to go over half retard on it. But you'll probably have to see it in person I probably wont have video or youtube. On the other hand I did get some badass video of a full throttle reverse gear assault down Cable Hill.

Man I want to weigh this thing too, I know its light but I dont know how light. Heck the scales may hurt my feelings but I garuntee I did everything I could afford to do to keep weight to a minimum.

Have you seen that many of the larger late model 1350 Double cardan CV's explode that weren't overextended? I didnt think it'd be a problem because I havn't personally seen many broken. We know 1350 joints will hold up so I didnt see why the CV wouldnt hold up too. I guess we will find out over...

Well I'm no "Nickelback of rockbouncers" but we'll see about that unbreakable thing.

I'm also in favor of the spray paint, but I recommend you step up to Rustoleum last couple cans of krylon I have bought have been disappointing. I personally wouldnt consider powdercoat on anything I intend to wheel. It would just hurt too bad to chip up that fresh powdercoat, knowing I could...

I think I see what youre getting at, yes I am very happy with my trailing arm setup. The only problem I have with it is too much travel. I ended up having to use limit straps to limit travel and keep from over travelling the universal joints in the rear driveshaft. I know I could grind the CV...