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He’s talking about the one in KY for sure

Most chassis guys won’t want to do that for a few reasons. You’ll find a few that will do it, most mentioned in this thread … I (partially committed racing) will not though. Main one being quality control and liability. My chassis are assembled in a jig and welded on a chassis table. They are...

Sorry I keep forgetting about this thread I’ll post a bunch more pictures soon, but it’s gone on it’s shakedown run and is getting finalized and final fit and finish soon.

Jim has unfortunately passed away - youll need to source those sets now from Randy with Jimmys / FybrConcepts

That is a really old school Solid Axle Industries front end setup. They do not make those anymore, nor do they have any ability to. My old buggy had that setup on it, I bought every arm they had left in stock and slowly bent my way through them all - have since sold that buggy. What @ronnie j...

He took off treps and went to SXs.... I’d say he’s cutting some corners. Rest of the build, no. Tires, corner cut so far he cut into the next block.

thats 1.75 .250 wall It actually came from WOD as part of the kit for the steering. Give them a call and they can send you the pre bent and notched piece...ive actually used their kit on all of these buggies... My bender will bend it, but I dont like to stress the thing that much if I can help it

its pricey, but its not out of this world when compared to the big picture (or a high end coating on an exhaust) - I know it works, its the same stuff that a lot of the U4 / desert teams are running Its all relative anyway ... this buggy hasn't had an expense spared yet, why start now!

a few things - there are little heat shield plates that will get coated and covered in shielding, but the headers / exhaust are also getting covered in headshield which will take care of it all no problem. Its not cheap...but it is top of the line and comes highly recommended...

Few other detail shots over time. It’s been a while since the last update

Yea - Sorry kinda forgot about this thread it’s in wire and plumbing at the moment before we tear it down for final welding and fitment. Aiming to be riding by New Years. Here are a few pics of it as we were moving it to get wired and plumbed

someone may disagree with me - but anytime you have a shock mounted on a trailing arm, youre right - the proper way to do it means you'll need a bumpstop on the axle. It doesn't need to be an air bump necessarily, you can use a mechanical bumpstop since the IBP will handle a good bit of the...

Nice! Glad that worked out for you. I wouldnt worry as much about making the axle end be adjustable - the tradeoff there would likely be less noticeable than it is at the chassis end. But im glad you were able to make it work with what you had already there. A little adjustment goes a long way!

you want the lowers parallel to the ground and the uppers going downhill from axle to chassis (in a perfect world) this isnt doable in all places...but if you can move your chassis uppers up to those holes and still have less separation at the chassis as the axle, youre (generally) in good...

that rear end squatting you guys are getting is squat (in the anti-squat discussion). get more anti squat and youll limit that...but keep in mind there is a trade off to everything. the calculators work ok for letting you see what does what, but they are definitely not the end all be all for...

well there could be a lot at play here... do you have more pics of the suspension setup?

is the metal bolt sleeve still inside the bushings? You need to get that out first like mentioned above, once that comes out you can usually push them out

twisted customs still makes glass as well. Youve listed the main ones though. Jimmy's has a ton that they dont advertise online...most of them are under the Fybr Concepts name

also remember that all the chrome does not go into the ORI. there is about .5" - 1" of chrome i think that stays outside of the shock at full bump. Best way to set them up is to 1) get them as close to in line with the shock mounts at the axle as possible. Very likely you wont get them...