05+ superduty disc brakes

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New rotor and the bracket
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redneckengineered said:
What about the caliper?
Click to expand...
I can get a pic this evening, but I don't have one to compare size to. The axle didn't have any on when I got it
 
Looks exactly like the stock SD 05+ 250/350 calipers I'm running.


Can I take a minute to rant like a **** head? Ok. This thread should be a case study in marketing 101 on how not to release a new product. I really don't want to knock ole Gubni, he's just trying to bring a needed product to market. His kits are usually the ****, they're well built and cheap, and I've used them on multiple builds but this is a gigantic cluster ****. There's basically 3 reasons for having a "kit" for these axles. The factory stuff is huge and heavy. So, we're talking weight savings, overall size, and if you want to add a cherry on top offer the parts in 8x6.5 for an upcharge.

So, if you're trying to bring a kit to market I would think you would start with some basic pictures of the components, pictures of the components assembled, a weight savings figure, and some side by side shots of the size difference between the factory stuff and the kit parts. I don't think that's asking too much, especially considering you're trying to sell this kit to as many people as possible and make a profit. A little extra planning on the front end would have gone a long way here. This stuff isn't cheap, I'm not going to shell out $400+ to save 3lbs on parts with virtually no additional info on what I'm actually buying. Rant off.
 
It’s rear calipers and rotors on the front from what I see. They look pretty much identical

Probably 10-15% smaller though.


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I have an idea to make something work on those axles. I need to spend the time doing it, but RN I'm focused on shipping a bunch of stuff to France, then I'll go back on trying to make my idea a reality.
 
I dont know the Lugnut 4x4 guy or exactly what parts are in his kit, but maybe this will clear up some of the questions and get some tech started in this thread
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05+ dana 60 rotor vs sterling 10.5 rotor, the 60 rotor is the one thats about twice the thickness. Tape measure says the 60 rotor is roughly 13-3/4" diameter and the sterling rotor is roughly 12-3/4.
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Sterling rotor weighs in at roughly 22lbs
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60 rotor weighs in at roughly 33lbs
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Sterling caliper is roughly 15lbs

I dont have a 05+ 60 caliper to weigh but maybe someone else can post up how much one weighs. Surprisingly the front caliper from a dana 50 (bolt on swap onto a pre 05 dana 60) weighs in at 16lbs also.


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kmcminn said:
I had rather him keep the drill guide and drill them himself.
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X2 I have a badass drill press at work luckily, but still wish they had come pre- drilled
 
I hope this isn’t taken offensively I went at this a little different direction...

2008 2500 hd rear rotors and caliper. This way the hub is all that needs machine work, I had to turn the hub down to 4.83” to fit the center hole of the Chevy rotor (figured this may solve a problem down the road with wheel center clearance?) also I drilled my hubs to 8x6.5 pattern. I don’t have the calipers and brackets yet so haven’t gotten to the point of making the caliper bracket adaptor yet as soon as I do I’ll post up.



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As far as the rotors go, rather than redrilling them you can open up the holes that are already in the rotors just slightly and they'll fit, I dont remember what size I drilled mine to it was alot easier than drilling a whole new bolt pattern.
 
d_daffron said:
I dont know the Lugnut 4x4 guy or exactly what parts are in his kit, but maybe this will clear up some of the questions and get some tech started in this thread
3d2058a611b849cddefcc3e3ae6dc9af.jpg

05+ dana 60 rotor vs sterling 10.5 rotor, the 60 rotor is the one thats about twice the thickness. Tape measure says the 60 rotor is roughly 13-3/4" diameter and the sterling rotor is roughly 12-3/4.
ea75fcd26c27125322a8ee6bc385aad2.jpg

Sterling rotor weighs in at roughly 22lbs
145a664a0481a93285e24acd3c6f270c.jpg

60 rotor weighs in at roughly 33lbs
4d89bfb415e03aefeef9baca6a794c34.jpg

Sterling caliper is roughly 15lbs

I dont have a 05+ 60 caliper to weigh but maybe someone else can post up how much one weighs. Surprisingly the front caliper from a dana 50 (bolt on swap onto a pre 05 dana 60) weighs in at 16lbs also.


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Click to expand...


Post specs on your setup.
 
I dont actually have a setup to post, I'm going an entirely different route on my axle.

I was just trying to help out the guys who are considering this setup by posting some comparison specs on the parts these kits are supposably made with. I dont actually have any brake at all on my 05+ SD60 since I'm running a straight drive case and decided to go rear brakes only.
TBItoy said:
It’s rear calipers and rotors on the front from what I see. They look pretty much identical

Probably 10-15% smaller though.


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Click to expand...

I'm running the stock calipers and rotors on the pre 04 SD60 in my jeep. I redrilled the hubs tp the new bolt pattern then opened up the holes in the rotors about 1/8" and slid everything back together. It was significantly easier than trying to redrill a new bolt pattern in the rotors.

One possible problem you'd run into using chevy rotors is the need to turn the wheel bearing register diameter down some so the chevy rotor will fit. Its not a huge peoblem because if youre going to 8x6.5 youre going to have to turn the bearings down to be able to bolt an 8x6.5 rim up anyway.
 
d_daffron said:
I dont actually have a setup to post, I'm going an entirely different route on my axle.

I was just trying to help out the guys who are considering this setup by posting some comparison specs on the parts these kits are supposably made with. I dont actually have any brake at all on my 05+ SD60 since I'm running a straight drive case and decided to go rear brakes.
Click to expand...

That's cool until you lose your rear driveshaft. Brakes at the transfer case would be cool.
 
Yeah I put some thought into that and my reasoning was your most likely to break a driveshaft, axleshaft, etc and need to stop immediately when climbing. In that case the rear brakes are the most valuable to keep from coming down the hill backwards. I definately wanted some wheel brakes incase something crazy happened like both driveshafts Breaking at the same time because thats the kinda thing that would happen to me. I am also still running dual master cylinders and each caliper has a separate hydraulic circuit.

If the no front brakes setup sucks I'll try the rear Sterling rotors and Wilwood Superlite calipers since I already have them.
 
If the space permitted it seems like brakes on the t-case is the way to go? Couldn't you still run dual pedals for front digs and such. Is there someone that already makes kits for an atlas? Even tho I'm already to deep in these damn front brakes, I guess I was the guinea pig on this. Lol
 
There are definately advantages to brakes at the Tcase like the fact that you get to use the axle gear reduction to increase braking power. I personally feel like a rear driveshaft failure on a steep climb with nothing but transfercase brakes would be really bad. The front tires arent going to do you any good to keep you from rolling backwards downhill. With wheel brakes on the rear as long as the wheels are still attached I should have plenty of brakes on a climb no matter what happens. Going downhill would suck with rear only brakes but braking driveline componets going downhill seems unlikely.

Also In my case I'll be using a straight drive case so front digs are out of the question anyway.
 

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