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1310 U joints Question
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<blockquote data-quote="boardbysled" data-source="post: 1499856" data-attributes="member: 18596"><p>So... I got this project most of the way completed over the last week.</p><p></p><p>Just running into some minor snags reguarding drivelines.</p><p></p><p>Here are the drivelines I got from the junkyard... Both 1310 straight U-joint shafts, long one is from the rear of a Scout, short one is just some random shaft I found laying around (back of a Bronco II with lots of other random parts)</p><p></p><p><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/481890_493567490663723_1942106135_n.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The main issue is that even with a doubler, the yokes on the front of the t-case are about binding.</p><p></p><p>What are my options, go with a CV driveline (I have a CV yoke I could use)? Will they offer more angle?</p><p></p><p>Are there high-angle and low angle yokes? The one on the front of the t-case now is one from my waggy D44.</p><p></p><p>Worse comes to worse I suppose I could go with a Tom-Woods offset U-joint, but I feel there is probably a cheaper, better solution to this.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="boardbysled, post: 1499856, member: 18596"] So... I got this project most of the way completed over the last week. Just running into some minor snags reguarding drivelines. Here are the drivelines I got from the junkyard... Both 1310 straight U-joint shafts, long one is from the rear of a Scout, short one is just some random shaft I found laying around (back of a Bronco II with lots of other random parts) [IMG]http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/481890_493567490663723_1942106135_n.jpg[/IMG] The main issue is that even with a doubler, the yokes on the front of the t-case are about binding. What are my options, go with a CV driveline (I have a CV yoke I could use)? Will they offer more angle? Are there high-angle and low angle yokes? The one on the front of the t-case now is one from my waggy D44. Worse comes to worse I suppose I could go with a Tom-Woods offset U-joint, but I feel there is probably a cheaper, better solution to this. [/QUOTE]
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