boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
I am wondering if 1310 u joints and 1310 cv's use the same yoke?
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1310 U joints Question
- Thread starter boardbysled
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CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
same ujoint but different yokes.
A cv has holes in the yoke and threads in the cv
a non cv has holes in the yoke and Ubolts or threads in the yoke and straps.
Neither the strap or ubolt style share the same bolt spread as the CV.
I have put a non cv shaft in a CV yoke tho, I cut the ears with threads off of a CV and used them as forged straps.
Never put a Cv in a nonCV yoke tho.
A cv has holes in the yoke and threads in the cv
a non cv has holes in the yoke and Ubolts or threads in the yoke and straps.
Neither the strap or ubolt style share the same bolt spread as the CV.
I have put a non cv shaft in a CV yoke tho, I cut the ears with threads off of a CV and used them as forged straps.
Never put a Cv in a nonCV yoke tho.
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
What rigs had standard 1310 u joints on both ends of a driveshaft? So I have an idea what to look for when I go junkyard scavenging:redneck:
CHOP SHOP
Well-Known Member
yeah right!!
Your talking thousands of rigs.
I have even found 1310s on mazda trucks, where as the same ford ranger (same year) had metric or saginaw joints.
Look to ANY half ton truck rear shaft form the 70s and early 80s. Look to any import rigs that were built IN the STATES like tacos, mazdas etc. Doemstic built imports get alllot of spicer joints.
Pretty much ANY small joint that has OUTER clips will be a 1310 or close enough that its then time to measure to double check.
What do you need? I most likely have it "in stock"!
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
Swapping a D300 into my Nissan. I have a conversion flange for the rear to go to 1310 and my front axle is already 1310. The D300 appears to have 1310 u-joint yokes. So with my limited budget, I was gonna just get some junkyard driveshafts and shorten/lengthen them.
What would be my best bet for finding the longest slip stock? The rear doesn't need much, but the front needs to be somewhat long. I do plan on putting a limit strap/chain/cable on the pumpkin though so it doesn't have to be stupid long.
Later on down the road, I'll upgrade to bigger u-joints, but I'm a broke bastard and just going with what I have. ****, I still have stock axles in the D44.
Hopefully someone else can find this tech useful, I'm all for junkyard cheap solutions. Minus the doubler kit, I'll have less into this whole swap then having someone build me a driveline (including purchasing the D300).
What would be my best bet for finding the longest slip stock? The rear doesn't need much, but the front needs to be somewhat long. I do plan on putting a limit strap/chain/cable on the pumpkin though so it doesn't have to be stupid long.
Later on down the road, I'll upgrade to bigger u-joints, but I'm a broke bastard and just going with what I have. ****, I still have stock axles in the D44.
Hopefully someone else can find this tech useful, I'm all for junkyard cheap solutions. Minus the doubler kit, I'll have less into this whole swap then having someone build me a driveline (including purchasing the D300).
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boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
Olympic 4x4 has a stranglehold on the junkyard jeeps in the northsound, and I refuse to pay "jeeper" prices.:redneck:
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Totalled
That Ford Guy
91-94 explorers have a 1310 CV front drive shaft
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
So... I got this project most of the way completed over the last week.
Just running into some minor snags reguarding drivelines.
Here are the drivelines I got from the junkyard... Both 1310 straight U-joint shafts, long one is from the rear of a Scout, short one is just some random shaft I found laying around (back of a Bronco II with lots of other random parts)
The main issue is that even with a doubler, the yokes on the front of the t-case are about binding.
What are my options, go with a CV driveline (I have a CV yoke I could use)? Will they offer more angle?
Are there high-angle and low angle yokes? The one on the front of the t-case now is one from my waggy D44.
Worse comes to worse I suppose I could go with a Tom-Woods offset U-joint, but I feel there is probably a cheaper, better solution to this.
Just running into some minor snags reguarding drivelines.
Here are the drivelines I got from the junkyard... Both 1310 straight U-joint shafts, long one is from the rear of a Scout, short one is just some random shaft I found laying around (back of a Bronco II with lots of other random parts)
The main issue is that even with a doubler, the yokes on the front of the t-case are about binding.
What are my options, go with a CV driveline (I have a CV yoke I could use)? Will they offer more angle?
Are there high-angle and low angle yokes? The one on the front of the t-case now is one from my waggy D44.
Worse comes to worse I suppose I could go with a Tom-Woods offset U-joint, but I feel there is probably a cheaper, better solution to this.
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WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
What's the distance between the yoke and pinion?
BUILTnotBOT
Well-Known Member
You can always clearance the yoke with a little grinding to help it flex more but as far as any aftermarket high angle or tall yokes for 26spline 1310 i dont know of any.
A 1310 cv might help some but might also require some clearancing to get it where you wanna be.
Im running Tom Woods 1410's high angle joints on my rig and at speed they bring the wobble. The only reason im running the high angle joint is to help in the angle of my 2piece front line, the stupid cheap deal i got for em and Unless totally necessary i wouldnt recommend this route.
Its a 1310... Id grind em to clearance, flex it out make sure you dont have any binding going on, and have a spare yoke and driveline on hand when you need it....
A 1310 cv might help some but might also require some clearancing to get it where you wanna be.
Im running Tom Woods 1410's high angle joints on my rig and at speed they bring the wobble. The only reason im running the high angle joint is to help in the angle of my 2piece front line, the stupid cheap deal i got for em and Unless totally necessary i wouldnt recommend this route.
Its a 1310... Id grind em to clearance, flex it out make sure you dont have any binding going on, and have a spare yoke and driveline on hand when you need it....
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
30-32" Can't quite remember.
See, I'm not sure if I could grind enough away to make em not hit, they're about bound up at ride height.
My t-case is clocked up, but not ridiculously so (flat belly, but no cutting of the floor), and my rig isn't a monster truck. I think its the LP D44 thats ****ing me.
I know 1310's aren't the pinnacle in strength, but I have stock shafts in the front as well, so I know I need to be nice to it.
Would be nice to run the same style drivelines front and rear though, as then I could carry 1 spare shaft that would work on either end.
WA-Wheeler
Well-Known Member
30 is not bad.... I guess. So at ride hieight it's starting to bind?
