• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

14 bolt axle flange bolts wont stay tight

R H

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2013
Messages
46
Location
Central Indiana
Flange bolts and nordlocks. shoulder of the bolt needs to fit snug in the axle flange, or the axle will work back and forth causing the bolt to loosen.
 

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
3,910
Location
Amish Country
Jwhit55 said:
Flange and cap style, but I was having the same issue with the Yukon shafts also
Did you reuse the same bolts? If so, that remains the only constant and would be a likely culprit
 

zukimaster

Hold my beer and watch this!
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
4,033
Location
Ft. payne AL
Re: Re: Re: 14 bolt axle flange bolts wont stay tight

ranger11 said:
That's my thought bolt them how a wheel or hi steer arm mounts.

PS ford power is living on the edge. Wanna live forever buy a Chevy.
. Ford power is living on the edge! Everytime you go ride, you wonder if it will make it back to the trailer without blowing up!
 

toyota01

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
116
Those axles are easy to put underneath anything,but they dont reach their full potential unless there under FORD POWER!! :flipoff1: Might want to check for a recall!! CHEVROLET: Constantly Having Every Vehicle Recalled Over Lousy Engineering Techniques.

Sorry not much help to the op just chevy owners.
 

Jwhit55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
382
I should've known this would become a Chevy vs Ford thread!! Thanks everybody for the input!! hopefully some of these ideas will fix the issue
 

bdillon2372

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2010
Messages
191
Location
Mowbray Mtn. TN.
JohnG said:
Remove all bolts and clean holes with brake clean and blow out with compressed air. Remembering everything you put in a blind hole has only one way out! Do this multiple times till you have no oil residue at all. Get good quality studs. It should be course thread, get the other end fine thread. Add red Loctite to threads and install studs. Install axle, install nuts. Re-touque every ride till they quit moving.

This should fix it if you don't have something bent like axle flange or housing.
This is what I had to do, got tired of having to check the bolts literally between every hill, the studs cured the problem
 

40spline.com

NEVER LIFT!
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
71
Location
Fort Oglethorpe, GA
Hey Jamie, I see this problem all the time and there's even a huge thread on Pirate about it. Your housing isn't bent and there's nothing wrong with the install. This is just common in big horsepower apps. Here's what fixed the issue on my personal ride. Get you some of the high strength 12 point flange bolts and nord-locks. You can get these from McMaster Carr. Pull the flanges and soak them in brake clean or whatever solvent then allow to dry. Then spray the **** out of the hub holes with brake clean. Wear goggles because it'll shoot right back out in your face. Let everything dry up really well. Cover the bolts in red loctite, RTV everything, and install with the nordlocks and torq the **** out of them. Since doing this I haven't had them loosen at all. I still check them every ride and they stay tight, occassionally I can get like a 1/10th of a turn on them after a long weekend if I cover a lot of ground.

We've actually discussed using a tapered bushing and matching taper hole in the drive plate that acts like a collet gripping the stud diameter. But that's kind of a pain for the end user that just wants to reuse stock hub bolts or off the shelf hardware. Hope this helps.
 

TBItoy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
10,891
Location
Dodson Branch, TN
Re:

I think it would be cool to use studs and small lug nuts for the axle shaft. Just have to cut the correct taper in the drive flange.
 

40spline.com

NEVER LIFT!
Joined
Dec 23, 2013
Messages
71
Location
Fort Oglethorpe, GA
Re:

TBItoy said:
I think it would be cool to use studs and small lug nuts for the axle shaft. Just have to cut the correct taper in the drive flange.

Without getting too technical that's basically what I touched on in my last post. Hell maybe we'll do it, we'd be the only ones doing it and I like doing **** like that. That's how heavy truck axles are done.
 

TBItoy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2010
Messages
10,891
Location
Dodson Branch, TN
Re: Re:

40spline.com said:
Without getting too technical that's basically what I touched on in my last post. Hell maybe we'll do it, we'd be the only ones doing it and I like doing **** like that. That's how heavy truck axles are done.
Yep, I had a Dana 70 that had studs and conical split washers like you were referring to. Sometimes they can be a bear to remove when they lock down on the studs (like some steering arm studs and Toyota hubs/flanges).

I've seen steering arms that came with lug nuts instead of the conical split washers and that seemed like a much easier/service friendly way to accomplish basically the same thing (converting shear load to axial load/locating components).

Bonus that it wouldn't require machine work to the stock hubs like dowel pins.
 

Jwhit55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
382
40spline.com said:
Hey Jamie, I see this problem all the time and there's even a huge thread on Pirate about it. Your housing isn't bent and there's nothing wrong with the install. This is just common in big horsepower apps. Here's what fixed the issue on my personal ride. Get you some of the high strength 12 point flange bolts and nord-locks. You can get these from McMaster Carr. Pull the flanges and soak them in brake clean or whatever solvent then allow to dry. Then spray the **** out of the hub holes with brake clean. Wear goggles because it'll shoot right back out in your face. Let everything dry up really well. Cover the bolts in red loctite, RTV everything, and install with the nordlocks and torq the **** out of them. Since doing this I haven't had them loosen at all. I still check them every ride and they stay tight, occassionally I can get like a 1/10th of a turn on them after a long weekend if I cover a lot of ground.

We've actually discussed using a tapered bushing and matching taper hole in the drive plate that acts like a collet gripping the stud diameter. But that's kind of a pain for the end user that just wants to reuse stock hub bolts or off the shelf hardware. Hope this helps.

Thanks, ill tear them back down this weekend and try this!!
 

BUG-E J

Don't get #labroned
Joined
Dec 1, 2010
Messages
5,128
Noticed my drivers rear leaking and all the bolts were loose. Looks like its miller time! :****:
 

jayphizzle

Junk Wheeler
Joined
Dec 27, 2010
Messages
629
Location
Middle,ALABAMA
I know this doesn't apply to the 14 bolts, but I have to do it in my rear Rockwell every trip. They have lock washers on them and i'm not running any crazy horsepower. I just tighten as needed, but then again, I'm just a lazy ass :JRich:
 

Markrobinson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2010
Messages
679
Bumping this thread for old time sake…

I can’t put hubs on a 14 bolt without thinking of this post. I never met John but still got help from him through the forum.
 

Attachments

  • 90F69FE5-DB05-4CC1-AEDC-BB939BF85BC8.png
    90F69FE5-DB05-4CC1-AEDC-BB939BF85BC8.png
    68.7 KB · Views: 53
Top