3.0 3vze Is Out

[mike d]

3.0 3vze Is Out "Its Alive"

Well after a few good long hours, the 3.0 is out, know its time to wire up the vortec get my motor mounts put in, and adapt my GL430E to the -t-case (Advance Adapters). Ill try to post some pics later.

 

[mike d]

Wow what a project, two years ago when i started this project I didn't know what the hell i was doing. I just knew in my head that its been done by many people, and that there is tons of info. After zillions of hours on the internet and getting crossed eyed looking at wiring diagrams i am finally a heck of a lot closer.

Here is the 3.0 getting yanked out.

Picked up a 1" Body lift to give the Vortec Transmission some room to breath.

Once I stripped all the crap out and got the engine area cleaned up I started to mess around with radiators. Picked this one out it fit just right but i had to modify the aluminum outputs to fit the Vortec hose size.

Test Fit before mod

And then after, with some ghetto brackets welded on.

After I got the cooling a little dialed in i started to mess with the wiring. Yuk!

I was really trying to do this Swop on a budget "yeah right" So what ever i didnt need to buy i didn't. So i opt to use the 4.3 stock harness and modify it were needed. Took me forever just to figure out how wiring diagrams worked, and what all the symbols and #s and crap meant. Once i got the hang of that tracing wires went pretty easy.

Here Im labeling and stripping out wires that i was not going to use.

Next I connected everything connector and sensor in, to see what i had left over or what was missing.

 

[rustytrombone]

heck yess looks like bunches of fun

 

[mike d]

Next i went to test fit the motor to see what kinda room i had to work with. For now this rig is going to stay IFS Until i can save up for a SAS. What a pain, lots more bull S#@$ involved to make it fit with IFS, it has a 3" lift which helped out a little but not much. Oh well, need this thing on the road ASAP.

Here is a test fit with just the motor.

Fire wall clearance

Then i started to run into problems with Oil pan and Differential clearance. Downy and AA made a custom fit Oil. I didn't feel like blowing money on that, so i started to butcher mine. Took a couple different time welding and then cutting and then welding. Finally got it.

Cutting the pan.

Yeah right!

Still didn't fit, cut that crap off, and got it re-welded for the 2nd time.

Had to get a modified oil pump strainer thing, to fit the modified oil pan.

Next was to get the Transfer case crapola figured out. Scored big on craigslist some one bailed on there project and i got the adapters for mega cheap.

Next mounted the tranny to the engine, and t-case to tranny. Put the oil pan back on, and slid here in the runner.

Weird angle.

Snug fit oil pan clearance, Just will have to drive nicely until i can SAS it and get this temporary fix out of there.

 

[mike d]

On to the fuel.
Had to upgrade fuel lines for the Vortec motor. So i figured i would do something with my toyota tank.

After getting some feed back from the forums, i found out that Downey was full of crap, and that the stock v6 3.0 fuel pump from my 4runnner would not create enough pressure.

Stock pump

So here is the new one mounted in.

New external pump mounted.

Fuel line inputs into vortec.

I started off with hardline, but like the majority doing this swap switched to High pressure hose, not such a pain.

Little Helper

Since i chopped off a good chunk of my oil pan, i need to compinsate for what i took out, Put in dual oil filters and figured Oil changes would be easier from here.

Also put in a tranny cooler, and have a oil cooler that isnt hooked up yet.

I was getting close to start cranking over the motor so picked up some fluids for know.

Put in junk fluids for now, cause its all getting drained a week or two after, didn't want to waist good fluids on a motor thats been collecting crap the past two years.

 

[mike d]

Put in a new B&M Sport shifter, I really hate it to tell you the truth its way to big and takes up room. Oh well.

Got the shifter and PN Safety switch hooked up, and function properly.

Then wired up the starter, Had to order a new pig tail for the alternator. Then had to make a fuse box, for all my hot ignition and injector components.

what a mess, for now.

Well after all that i forgot about hood clearance. Wow i lucked out.

So i crank the motor over and i get fuel, I get spark, and check engine light comes on, so i know the ECM is working. But it just dosn't want to kick over, not sure if its years of sitting and the injectors are gunked up. Also have some minor leaks in the fuel line by my filter. Not sure if thats giving me incorrect fuel pressure. So im going to re do all my fuel lines and route them a little different. Also when i turn the key to on my fuel pump should turn on for a couple seconds? Its not, only comes on when cranking the motor.

Some of the wires i don't have hooked up that might be giving me issues, but i wouldn't think they would.


From the Under hood vortec fuse box.
AC wires
Fuse output crank " I think this might be the one of the problems"
Starter relay wire thats on the GM end. Not using that relay, im using the toyota relay, "Not sure if thats an issue"
Brake Trans Shift
Neutral Safety Switch Ouput, " im using the B&M Switch. " Not sure if this is a issue"

From the vortec ECM

4wd front wheel lock input
vss output cruise control consol " need to hook this up somewhere"
Seriall Data II
Cruise engaged Signal
CPP switch Signal
4wd Indicator
EGR valve control
VSS output " need to take care of this one"
Signal Speedo relay?

Well thats about it for wires, the i have not hooked up.

Im also having some issues with the oil pump sender unit. I read that if this not hooked up correctly and if it cant read pressure it will tell the ECM not to let the motor start.?

I have a constant power hooked up to the orange wire.
The tan and white wire go to the guage.
The gray one goes to a relay. " I tied this one into my fuel pump relay on the toyota"

See diagram below

Ive got to get this figured out ive been carpooling with my wife the past 8 months, wow time flies. Im close i know i am. Im doing this swap in my garage in my condo. So im kinda limited during the time of the day when i can crank it over to try and trouble shoot. There is no exhaust hooked up yet makes it a little hard. Talked to randy's exhaust today and is ready for me to bring it up there. Would be nice to bring it up there in running condition.

If there is anybody out there that can guide me or give me advice to get this MOFO on the road running please give me a shot, or if you have some time and your up north hear, and you could help me out that would rock. Im almost two years into the SWAP and im not giving up.


Thanks again

More to follow

 

[Money Mark]

Wouldn't it have been easier to dump that Yota Runner and just buy a Heep Grand Cherokee?:stirpot:

Props for tackling this project though.....even if its taken 22 months.

 

[mike d]

Got the motor for free, and the runner for nearly free.

 

[zig80toy]

Wow, great work man!! :awesomework:

 

[82toyomud]

Well, you better have a line on another motor, for when those filters take out your current one...

Fram =uke:

 

[mike d]

Well, you better have a line on another motor, for when those filters take out your current one...

Fram =uke:

Like i posted before, I put cheepo fluids in and filters, whats the point in putting in the good stuff and then a couple weeks later draining everything. all sorts of dust gunk and debree, is in the motor, well hope not two much. Let it all get swooshed around then drain it, and up grade to the good stuff. Just my thought.:awesomework:

 

[Not Jobless]

Looks cool!

When you go to change the oil filters have fun cleaning up the mess since they're mounted sideways :eeek:

 

[mike d]

Looks cool!

When you go to change the oil filters have fun cleaning up the mess since they're mounted sideways :eeek:

Well you can always get creative and put i dont know maybe something under there to catch it, Like the wifes tupper ware.:flipoff:

We all manage to drain are oil and tranny fluid and thats up sided down.

:beer:

 

[Glenshadow]

WOW.. Sweet... looks so familiar... I was grinning the whole time I was reading the thread... I remember ALL of this same crap. Mine only took a year and some change though.. hahahah.

 

[Turtle Bite]

A few ideas to help get the motor running.

1. What year is your motor/ computer? 98 and newer need to be reflashed to run?

2. You should see 62-65 psi at the test port on the fuel rail schrader valve, my motor has proven to be very sensistive to low pressure. With 55 psi I have all kinds of hard starting and stumbling problems.

3. Yeah the fuel pump should be running for a while when you turn the key. Just put it on an ignition hot circuit. If it is going off the stock toyota wiring that will probably be troublesome (my understanding is the pump is partly controlled by the AFM). I have had mine running off an ignition hot for years, works great.

 

[mike d]

A few ideas to help get the motor running.

1. What year is your motor/ computer? 98 and newer need to be reflashed to run?

2. You should see 62-65 psi at the test port on the fuel rail schrader valve, my motor has proven to be very sensistive to low pressure. With 55 psi I have all kinds of hard starting and stumbling problems.

3. Yeah the fuel pump should be running for a while when you turn the key. Just put it on an ignition hot circuit. If it is going off the stock toyota wiring that will probably be troublesome (my understanding is the pump is partly controlled by the AFM). I have had mine running off an ignition hot for years, works great.

Thanks for the input really appreciate it.

I had the 98 comp, but ditched is because of VATS, went with a 97, which did not have vats, came out of the same rig just 1 year earlier. Im re doing my fuel line right now, cause i had a little leak, which im hoping that was giving me the low fuel pressure. I will find out shortly.

Thanks again.

 

[4xjunkie]

I am assuming the 3.0 is toast, right? Or is it still a good runner?

 

[mike d]

Blown, Gone, Rebuilt, Under the hood of another happy yota. Waiting to die.

 

[Turtle Bite]

Another thing to consider. The injector pinout locations, along with some of the other sensor pinouts, change from year to year. At least one injector and a few other wires were in different locations between my 1997 and 1999 computers.

 

[Thanatos]

My truck will be reborn with a 2RZ-FE hopefully soon. So hopefully soon my 3VZ-E will likewise be transplanted into another host and live on again.