4runner LSP Valve after lift

PaulSac · Feb 22, 2011

Those of you with a Toyota truck or 4runner that came with the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve, what did you do with it after you lifted your truck? Im sure most Toyota guys are going to say "just remove it". If you did that, did you bypass it completely or just leave it in place without the bar hooked to the rear end? Also what were the after effets? If you slam on the brakes does the rear end lock up easily?

uprunner · Feb 26, 2011

bump bump bump id like to know this as well

notstock · Feb 26, 2011

I left it on, added a bracket equal to the amount of lift to the (rear axle mounting to the lsvp) and bent the little arm until it was biased front to back the way I liked it.

skinny_pedal · Feb 26, 2011

4crawler.com has a bracket to make it even easier for you

uprunner · Feb 27, 2011

what happens if i just take it off?

"S"-box · Feb 27, 2011

****-can-it! if it has a return line, remove it and plug the "T" on the pass side wheel well. if not piece o cake, simply remove it and re-route your flexy line straight to the inlet where the valve used to be! this is definately one of those "don't need it" parts!:awesomework:

HOrunner · Feb 27, 2011

Put in a manual proportioning valve, and you can adjust as need be. Summit has them, but front range offroad has a kit to replace it with an extra fitting to boot. Bt that was like 6 years ago.

PaulSac · Feb 27, 2011

Good info from everyone. Thanks guys. Sounds like a bracket to keep using it will be the cheapest and best method.

TrikeKid · Feb 27, 2011

I cut the arm down to about 4" and safety wired it all the way up on my 85. Full brake power all the time and the truck stopped great. When it was snowing or raining I could slide the wire up the arm a bit to let it drop and take some brake out of it if I was sliding too much. Don't get much cheaper than 5 mintues of your time and a little wire.

uprunner · Feb 27, 2011

im just gonn take it off, less parts= less to break on the trail

"S"-box · Feb 27, 2011

uprunner said:
im just gonn take it off, less parts= less to break on the trail

good idea man, just throw a plug in that T and re-route your line like previously stated:awesomework::awesomework

iece-o-cake!

CHOP SHOP · Feb 27, 2011

Ive answered this one a few times. Hmmm.

either cut off the arm or

do it the right way.

I have removed over 30 of these things over the years. Its easy.

It diverts the extra pressure to the front right tire.

The valve has three lines on it. One is pressure, another is output to the rear hose/tee, the last is a return line going to the front right corner.

If you remove the valve you need to unhook the two lines going back up front (pressure and return). Now go up front and find the right front brake hose, follow it up to the framerail and it will go to a tee under the fenderwell on the framerail. There is only two fitting on the frame right there, a elbow and a tee, the tee is the one you want.

Once you have found the tee, leave the line going down to the hose, leave the line going up to the master, UNHOOK the line going to the rear of the truck. Go to the parts store and get a plug to plug the hole in the tee or replace it with an elbow from a parts truck.

Now take the loose line up front and blow thru it with your mouth or compressor until it spews out fluid and air from one of the loose rear lines. Whatever line is blowing in the rear is marked and bent out of the way. Dont kink it as it can be used as a spare rear line if you ever need one on the trail.

Now hook your rear brake hose to the remaining line that was NOT blown out.

Now the valve is completely eliminated and you have an extra rear hardline already installed from front to rear if needed.

Toyota rear brakes still suck and will not overpower the front.

I have tossed allot of them things in the garbage.

As for metric fittings, the only one I ever need is one plug to cap the extra hole in the tee on the pass front wheel well. I just take an old line and break off the flare fitting with the little chunk of line still in it and then grind it flush with the end of the hex part and just weld it shut. Right when its cooling ya can watch the bright orange color cool down and you can see if it is a nice capped weld or not.

Instant cap. Probably made over 50 them and never a problem.

It takes me two hours just to get to a metric plug from my shop!!

When deleting the second line, just bend the ends out of the way and leave it there. Makes for a nice spare rear line thats already run for a backup in case ya smash or damage the primary one.

uprunner · Feb 27, 2011

:awesomework::awesomework::awesomework::awesomework::awesomework:Chop shop pulls through again, thanks a ton this helps alot

Phantom 309 · Mar 1, 2011

PaulSac said:
Those of you with a Toyota truck or 4runner that came with the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve, what did you do with it after you lifted your truck?

Used an adj porportioning valve that I had left from another project and capped the return line like Chop Shop said. I might be able to dig up a pic if you need.