alignment specs for front end...

rigimortis rex · Sep 28, 2010

Hey guys,

I just did the first real drive in my chev-yota, and i have a couple issues.

-Does anyone know the correct approx. caster angle for a d44 full width front?
i think mine doesn't have enough angle cause i get a "death wobble" at about 35 mph.

-Also, has anyone experienced issues with clutch actuation with a sm465 swap? i have a chev master cyl, and slave cyl. it still is BARELY able to engage the clutch.

Any help greatly appreciated!:beer:

TrikeKid · Sep 29, 2010

3-4 degrees positive (upper BJ tipped toward the rear) is a pretty standard caster number to go by.

On the clutch, you mean you can barely engage it (barely grabs) or you can barely disengage it (pedal down)? Most hydraulic clutches I've messed with that's been a pedal adjustment issue but that was all stock stuff that had a cylinder r&r'd.

zukkev · Sep 29, 2010

Different makes using 44's had different caster specs...but for all intensive purposes, approx 5* positive caster should keep it heading straight...keep in mind though, there's alot more than just caster that could cause death wobble...:awesomework:

rigimortis rex · Oct 1, 2010

TrikeKid said:
On the clutch, you mean you can barely engage it (barely grabs) or you can barely disengage it (pedal down)? Most hydraulic clutches I've messed with that's been a pedal adjustment issue but that was all stock stuff that had a cylinder r&r'd.

thanks, i think that's what i need to mess with, i think the chev master cyl. has a longer stroke than i anticipated. so i think some changes to the pedal assembly are needed.

my upper and lower ball joints are almost straight up and down. or 0* caster. so i think that is my wobble problem, and i have no steering damper yet:looser: haha. back to work.

-Nick

zukkev · Oct 1, 2010

If you get your caster right, and everything else is good...shouldn't even need a damper....:;

rigimortis rex · Oct 3, 2010

good to know. thanks

nevada · Oct 4, 2010

rigimortis rex said:
my upper and lower ball joints are almost straight up and down. or 0* caster. so i think that is my wobble problem.
-Nick

thats not exactly how that works.
and theres no way you can eyeball caster.
camber, sure, you can see if its way out, either direction, but you cant do that with caster. unless its WAY the hell out, and doing the road grater thing.

take it in, and have it checked, thats the only way to know.

crazybluerider1 · Oct 4, 2010

nevada said:
thats not exactly how that works.
and theres no way you can eyeball caster.
camber, sure, you can see if its way out, either direction, but you cant do that with caster. unless its WAY the hell out, and doing the road grater thing.

take it in, and have it checked, thats the only way to know.

You work for les scquabies or something?

You absolutely can set caster at home.

nevada · Oct 4, 2010

crazybluerider said:
You work for les scquabies or something?

You absolutely can set caster at home.

you cant check caster by eyeballing the ball joints.

crazybluerider1 · Oct 4, 2010

nevada said:
you cant check caster by eyeballing the ball joints.

I didn't say you could. Just because you can't eyeball it doesn't mean it can't be checked at home. Dana axles are very easy to set caster on with a magnetic angle finder. Most fab guys have one in their garage somewhere.

CHOP SHOP · Oct 4, 2010

If you cant see that upper balljoint leaned back then your ****ed.

You dont need a tool to see if the axle is up on its tippy toes. It needs to be laid back.

Time for some long shackles.

This is only going to help with return to center/wandering issues.

Death wobble is caused by people who refuse to accept that their ball joints and tierods and wheel beairings are all SHOT.

rigimortis rex · Oct 4, 2010

CHOP SHOP said:
This is only going to help with return to center/wandering issues.

Death wobble is caused by people who refuse to accept that their ball joints and tierods and wheel beairings are all SHOT.

I'm not trying to look like i know everything, i have heard that the death wobble is caused by zero caster, and the addition of big tires and soft spring rates. i am simply trying to figure out what i need to change to make it go away, NOT start an internet battle.