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Dirt700

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Joined
Nov 1, 2015
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Location
Arkansas
While I'm waiting on my chassis I plan on buying some of the smaller stuff here and there while try to save for the big parts like tired, coilovers, front axle, etc. Trying to think of questions I have had and get them in one thread, so links would be great where I can book mark this stuff. Thanks in advance

1) 2.5x8 psc de ram is what I'm looking at. Is this what most of y'all use? I know they have a 2.75 also. I want to keep steering pretty quick. How many turns lock to lock do you like?

2) Transmission cooler. I'm looking at the different derale ones, would -6an be ok or should I do -8an. Also if there is a cheaper one that is good, let me know. These are the 2 I'm looking at
https://derale.com/products/fluid-coolers/universal/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271073910258/magnetic-transmission-pan-drain-plug-kit-1-2-20-detail

https://derale.com/products/fluid-coolers/universal/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271073910258/8-pass-16-tube-fin-electra-cool-replacement-cooler-8an-detail

3) water pump fitting, I have this thread saved on threading in a fitting, and I know some of you have just welded on a fitting. Just try to see what others have done
http://www.hardlinecrawlers.com/forums/index.php?topic=50751.0

4) engine upgrades, going to be ls engine, going to run the same cam as pholman, they have a kit that has push rods, springs, timing chain, lifters. Would you go thru the trouble of changing all of that on a trail buggy, or just do cam and springs?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/HOWARDS-LS1-American-Muscle-267-276-525-525-112-GM-LS-Comp-Cam-Camshaft-Kit-/111847110683?_trkparms=aid%253D222007%2526algo%253DSIC.MBE%2526ao%253D1%2526asc%253D20150519202348%2526meid%253D5d60cd7ce72f49c785f017f79ba6b870%2526pid%253D100408%2526rk%253D16%2526rkt%253D25%2526sd%253D111849192488&_trksid=p2056116.c100408.m2460

I know I will need help on the wiring harness, but I will wait on that till I get a motor, and I'm sure I will think of something else
 
5) mufflers, I have read most of the threads on here, and magnaflow seems to be the winner, I have looked at the 4 inch and 5 inch straight thru. The is also the race series. I want something semi-quite at idle, but gets fairly loud when you stand on it, here are the 2 im talking about. If anyone has these, or sound clips that would be great.

http://www.magnaflow.com/automotive-performance/mufflers/straight-through/4-round/products/

http://www.magnaflow.com/automotive-performance/mufflers/straight-through/5-round/products/
 
I run the -6 cooler you have listed. I've come to learn my gauge is way off and when taking that into account, it keeps the trans cool just fine.

For the water pump fitting, I got a press in style -20 from cbr. It split the neck when I pressed it in. That was even after freezing the fitting and heating the neck. They did, however, send me a factory take-out pump with like 0 miles with a new fitting installed at no charge. I then welded up the broken pump to keep as a spare with a fitting already installed.
 
Beerj said:
I run the -6 cooler you have listed. I've come to learn my gauge is way off and when taking that into account, it keeps the trans cool just fine.

For the water pump fitting, I got a press in style -20 from cbr. It split the neck when I pressed it in. That was even after freezing the fitting and heating the neck. They did, however, send me a factory take-out pump with like 0 miles with a new fitting installed at no charge. I then welded up the broken pump to keep as a spare with a fitting already installed.
They also have a 15 pass cooler, I can get for $145 on Amazon with -8 fittings, I know that should definitely cool it.

Do you have a link to the fitting you used? Every time I google cbr an fitting it brings up motorcycle stuff. I'm leaning towards the threaded way, because I can't Tig. But I'm sure I can find someone to do it for me. I wish now I would have went -20 on the rad, but plenty of people are using -16 with success
 
My bad, it was cbm. Here's the -16 version. It's a press in fitting. If all goes well you shouldn't have to weld it... unless it breaks the housing.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/221256349673

Actually wait, that fitting is for an aftermarket pump. The part number you want is cbm-10620 or 10626 depending on if you want it short or long. Here's there site. http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/engine-external/cbm-motorsports-ls1-ls2-ls7-straight-billet-water-neck-top-fitting--12an--16an--20an-long-short.html

I know I ordered for the factory pump but maybe they sent the aftermarket version by mistake. Seems plausible
 
Beerj said:
My bad, it was cbm. Here's the -16 version. It's a press in fitting. If all goes well you shouldn't have to weld it... unless it breaks the housing.
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/221256349673

Actually wait, that fitting is for an aftermarket pump. The part number you want is cbm-10620 or 10626 depending on if you want it short or long. Here's there site. http://store.custombuiltmotors.com/engine-external/cbm-motorsports-ls1-ls2-ls7-straight-billet-water-neck-top-fitting--12an--16an--20an-long-short.html

I know I ordered for the factory pump but maybe they sent the aftermarket version by mistake. Seems plausible
Thanks I have it book marked, they are out of stock on the short one, gonna get their t-stat housing also
 
I dont have an answer for you on the Magnaflow...but I run 2 dynomax race bullets. The short 6" ones. One behind the other (couldnt run a single long one due to space, it needed to make a slight turn) - 2.5" into 3" pipe right before the first muffler, short pipe out the 2nd muffler dumps out the side of the belly right before the rear upper link mount on the chassis.

Its not quiet...but its not insanely loud either. I do wish it was a bit quieter on normal trail cruises...but it sounds good and doesnt hurt the ears even on WOT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMVBiyVNo5E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEbBUshAJTM&t=1s&fmt=22
 
slravenel said:
I dont have an answer for you on the Magnaflow...but I run 2 dynomax race bullets. The short 6" ones. One behind the other (couldnt run a single long one due to space, it needed to make a slight turn) - 2.5" into 3" pipe right before the first muffler, short pipe out the 2nd muffler dumps out the side of the belly right before the rear upper link mount on the chassis.

Its not quiet...but its not insanely loud either. I do wish it was a bit quieter on normal trail cruises...but it sounds good and doesnt hurt the ears even on WOT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMVBiyVNo5E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEbBUshAJTM&t=1s&fmt=22
That's a nice buggy man. What cam you got? I seen a few other people, said they like the dynomax mufflers. I will look into them. I can get the 4 inch magnaflows for $60 each and I think they would still be pretty loud. Mine will be true duals coming out by the rear links. My concern with the race mufflers is like you said, I'm afraid I would want a little quieter for trail riding
 
Dirt700 said:
That's a nice buggy man. What cam you got? I seen a few other people, said they like the dynomax mufflers. I will look into them. I can get the 4 inch magnaflows for $60 each and I think they would still be pretty loud. Mine will be true duals coming out by the rear links. My concern with the race mufflers is like you said, I'm afraid I would want a little quieter for trail riding

Thanks! It was a long time coming...about 4 years start to finish laughing1

Its a comp cams Big Thumpr - which isnt the best cam in the world for what we do...but my tuner worked magic on it and it has really good driveability now. I was concerned at first!

The longer your pipes are the quieter it will be. I have a riding buddy with 1 dynomax bullet on an LS motor and his pipe runs all the way out to the rear bumper and his is WAY quieter than mine. I think all the "race" (or really any of the straight through) mufflers will sound about the same, there just isn't much to them...but more pipe will help tremendously. I am not sure what true duals will do for sound...but would imagine they would be slightly louder than non...but not sure by how much really.
 
Any info on what size ram and orbital, current rig is about 3.25 turns lock to lock, I think 2.5 would be nice

2.5x8-9.7ci = 2.59 L to L
11.3ci = 2.22

2.5x8.75-9.7ci=2.83
11.3ci=2.43
 
Dirt700 said:
Any info on what size ram and orbital, current rig is about 3.25 turns lock to lock, I think 2.5 would be nice

2.5x8-9.7ci = 2.59 L to L
11.3ci = 2.22

2.5x8.75-9.7ci=2.83
11.3ci=2.43

close to 2T L-L is actually really nice.

The Gremlin was 2.5x8-9.7ci , I used a surplus center ram so the rod is a little bigger than the psc ram, so mine was ~2.5 L to L. I thought it was just a touch slow.
 
TBItoy said:
close to 2T L-L is actually really nice.

The Gremlin was 2.5x8-9.7ci , I used a surplus center ram so the rod is a little bigger than the psc ram, so mine was ~2.5 L to L. I thought it was just a touch slow.
Thanks Nick, I may do a 2.5x8 with the 11.3ci, as long as 8" is enough stroke, which it should be
 
Dirt700 said:
Thanks Nick, I may do a 2.5x8 with the 11.3ci, as long as 8" is enough stroke, which it should be

that's what she said

to get too 2T L-L remeber that your pump has to fill the larger displacement orbital. for example if you don't have enough oil flow, you will be only able to turn as fast as grandma turning into church on sunday, where with a smaller diplacement orbital it will be more turns but you will be able to turn the wheel like a wore out ford window crank after jim-bob sharted
 
84mallcrawl said:
that's what she said

to get too 2T L-L remeber that your pump has to fill the larger displacement orbital. for example if you don't have enough oil flow, you will be only able to turn as fast as grandma turning into church on sunday, where with a smaller diplacement orbital it will be more turns but you will be able to turn the wheel like a wore out ford window crank after jim-bob sharted
I'm gonna run a cbr pump, that should do the trick, shouldn't it?
 
Dirt700 said:
I'm gonna run a cbr pump, that should do the trick, shouldn't it?

CBR is a good pump. Just make sure you feed it well and have appropriate line sizes. -10 and -8 return. the only -6 in the steering at all should be the pressure lines if anything.
 
84mallcrawl said:
that's what she said

to get too 2T L-L remeber that your pump has to fill the larger displacement orbital. for example if you don't have enough oil flow, you will be only able to turn as fast as grandma turning into church on sunday, where with a smaller diplacement orbital it will be more turns but you will be able to turn the wheel like a wore out ford window crank after jim-bob sharted
Would I be safer to go with the 9.7, and be quarter turn slower?
 
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