Aluminum Link Deflection

[paradisepwoffrd]

you could also mount a gopro under there while you wheel to see what's going on. I would put some fresh paint or something to coat the parts then take it out to verify the damage reoccurring.

A friend is having a similar issue but it is where the driveshaft comes out of the carrier bearing. His is only when the pinion side is full droop and opposite side stuffed. They are DOM links and its turning down the driveshaft weld but not damaging the link. He has 2" or so clearance at ride height.

 

[matth_85]

I am going to do some investigating this afternoon and will report back.

 

[snoball]

Alum uppers and lowers snoball?

Upper. I raised my carrier bearing about an 1/4 inch and it helped. Still rubs a bit though.

 

[matth_85]

I was by myself this afternoon. May have someone stop by later or tomorrow to investigate further. I found an issue. Possibly related, possibly non related.

First off, at a good flex situation it does get close to the link, I would bet that the way it axle wraps a little it could easily come into contact. (pics coming).

To the issue I found. I POUNDED a rock on Little Jager this weekend. Came down in the air on top of it. It actually bent the truss and broke the weld.

 

[matth_85]

Pics.

 

[matlock]

Like I said Something broke. Glad you found it

A properly setup and designed 4 link does not allow the pinion to rotate, it keeps it pointed
at the tcase throughout the range of usable movement, this usable travel is dictated by
bump stops and shock length ( or limit strap)

I'm glad that you found your problem and its nothing that the blue glue gun won't fix :smoke:

 

[matth_85]

I'm not actually sure this is the issue. The ram mount is what is bent/cracked. Nothing to do with the 4-link mounting or truss.

After looking at how close it gets I am thinking that it's hitting when the buggy wheel hops. It doesn't do it all the time but occasionally it will wheel hop up front. I feel like the spring rates are wrong. There is really know way to know without getting it to do it....

In any rate, I am going to re-weld the truss, and repair the ram mount. Also plan to change the front spring rates around some and see if the wheel hop will go away.

It's gonna be a while before I get back into the woods any way. Will report back when I get the repairs made and see how it does.

 

[redneckengineered]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the only buggies I've seen wheel-hop with a 4-link had jacked up geometry which could be part of the problem.

When I said earlier to flex it out with a forklift or cherry picker to be sure, I left out the fact that you should really do this with the shocks off and bump stops either off completely or let the nitrogen out of them. Otherwise you'll never get it in a true bind like you can on the trail.

 

[bjeep]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the only buggies I've seen wheel-hop with a 4-link had jacked up geometry which could be part of the problem.

Bingo!!

 

[matth_85]

Someone correct me if I'm wrong but the only buggies I've seen wheel-hop with a 4-link had jacked up geometry which could be part of the problem.

Could be. I won't call any names of who designed it but I'd be very disappointed if it wasn't right.

 

[matth_85]

I will also add this.

When I got the buggy it had almost a breakover point. When you would get it flexed up the rear would hit a point and almost push itself over. The springs were very heavy in the rear and pretty short for the length shock on the rear. I changed the rates around in the back and added an anti-rock and it does good now. Is real stable. I still think the front needs to be changed though.

Also, there are currently no limit straps on each corner. Just center limit straps.

Anyone have suggestions on what to run on it? If not ill call the place that I got the rear from.

Corner weights are:
1037-1052
738-731

Currently has a 250 lower and a 125 upper. I'll have to measure lengths. That's much heavier on the lower than what I ran on my previous buggy which I never weight but should have been a touch heavier.

 

[Beerj]

Can't go wrong with AssVaults

 

[redneckengineered]

Could be. I won't call any names of who designed it but I'd be very disappointed if it wasn't right.

Pretty sure you mentioned it but I noticed the swift edit

Won't say anything though.

 

[redneckengineered]

I will also add this.

When I got the buggy it had almost a breakover point. When you would get it flexed up the rear would hit a point and almost push itself over. The springs were very heavy in the rear and pretty short for the length shock on the rear. I changed the rates around in the back and added an anti-rock and it does good now. Is real stable. I still think the front needs to be changed though.

Also, there are currently no limit straps on each corner. Just center limit straps.

Anyone have suggestions on what to run on it? If not ill call the place that I got the rear from.

Corner weights are:
1037-1052
738-731

Currently has a 250 lower and a 125 upper. I'll have to measure lengths. That's much heavier on the lower than what I ran on my previous buggy which I never weight but should have been a touch heavier.

You definitely have some bad geometry going on. A buddy had that same issue, ****ed up roll center. Once he got to a certain flex point it was like an invisible hand would push him over. He couldn't hit the trail without rolling on something. I'm no expert but I'm pretty much positive your bottom springs are too heavy. As for limit straps, take your brand of shock and length, look up the specs online for extended length, then figure out where you can weld in some mounts and figure up that distance when you're fully extended. Call up WOD and give them your measurements. They can tell you what length you'll need accounting for stretch (typically I think you leave an 1" or so safety factor). You just don't want to overextend your shock with the weight of a 1 ton axle hanging from it. I was at WOD on Sunday they had a ****load of limit straps on the wall in varying lengths.

Good luck.

 

[matth_85]

Pretty sure you mentioned it but I noticed the swift edit

Won't say anything though.

Not trying to start a who's who **** measuring contest.

Just trying to get my junk to not cut my link in half **** hairs at the time.

 

[matth_85]

You definitely have some bad geometry going on. A buddy had that same issue, ****ed up roll center. Once he got to a certain flex point it was like an invisible hand would push him over. He couldn't hit the trail without rolling on something. I'm no expert but I'm pretty much positive your bottom springs are too heavy. As for limit straps, take your brand of shock and length, look up the specs online for extended length, then figure out where you can weld in some mounts and figure up that distance when you're fully extended. Call up WOD and give them your measurements. They can tell you what length you'll need accounting for stretch (typically I think you leave an 1" or so safety factor). You just don't want to overextend your shock with the weight of a 1 ton axle hanging from it. I was at WOD on Sunday they had a ****load of limit straps on the wall in varying lengths.

Good luck.

Yeah. Thanks for the info. It's been on the "I need to do this list" but until now I hadn't made it a priority.

I feel like a lot of the issue may be in the springs. But, I've been wrong before. I knew the anti-rock was a bandaid.

 

[redneckengineered]

Not trying to start a who's who **** measuring contest.

Just trying to get my junk to not cut my link in half **** hairs at the time.

It's all good. Once you said you have wheel hop in the front it was clear. Your pinion is rotating up and under hard compression the link is bumping uglies with the yoke. I think you have enough clearance, fix the geometry and you'll fix the problem plus I bet your **** will climb a lot better under throttle.

If you can, post some pictures of your rig at ride height from the front and side and link mount locations.

 

[Neal3000]

Whats your upper link length compared to lower?

 

[matth_85]

It's all good. Once you said you have wheel hop in the front it was clear. Your pinion is rotating up and under hard compression the link is bumping uglies with the yoke. I think you have enough clearance, fix the geometry and you'll fix the problem plus I bet your **** will climb a lot better under throttle.

If you can, post some pictures of your rig at ride height from the front and side and link mount locations.

Will do that this evening.


Also, like I said I don't want any names brought into it simply because I don't know the whole story. The shop may have only done some of the work. Either way I am not bad mouthing nor mad at anyone. I traded for the buggy. And other than the small issue we've been talking about it's a very well put together unit. I have had no issues with it other than my stupidity.

 

[Toddy]

Another band aid may be to shorten the uppers a bit and roll the pinion down.