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another 3-link question

DiRtY Bill

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2007
Messages
95
Location
yakima
on a front 3-link is there a reason why everybody runs the upper link on the same side as the 3rd member? can i run it on the opposite side?

I'm thinking that I'm going to have an interference between the upper link and the drive line with the HP housing i have. there's only about 6" from the center line of the drive line to the inside of the frame. that doesn't give me much room to get the upper link in there and the exhaust.
 
Sounds like you may be refering to a 4 link?...What's important is that the track bar is parallel to the drag link. If I understand your question no it doesn't matter which side.
 
I expect a build thread:cool:

progress has been Sloooooooooooow, and will be. when i get my axle (or axel if your from Selah) done, i will post up some picks. i'll be getting my long side shafts cut and splined next week at Ritchies machine shop, (www.ritchiesmachineshop.com) plus i will be getting get my rear axle re-drilled to 6-lug. then i have to wait until i get all my brackets and joints and **** gathered up before i really start a "build". my rig is wheel-able as it sits so its not going under the knife until all the parts are sitting on my garage floor.
 
progress has been Sloooooooooooow, and will be. when i get my axle (or axel if your from Selah) done, i will post up some picks. i'll be getting my long side shafts cut and splined next week at Ritchies machine shop, (www.ritchiesmachineshop.com) plus i will be getting get my rear axle re-drilled to 6-lug. then i have to wait until i get all my brackets and joints and **** gathered up before i really start a "build". my rig is wheel-able as it sits so its not going under the knife until all the parts are sitting on my garage floor.

Thats the way to do it:awesomework: Took me 2 weekends and a few days during the week after work to do mine. I don't necessarily care for the leafs but I'll keep em till I upgrade axles.

What are your plans for the rear, ford 9 inch an keepin the 4 link+panhard?
 
i have a D44 from a binder, its 62" wms-wms, thats what i narrowed the front to. ****ing Pissan gears are too damn expensive to keep the stock rear. i know a 44 isnt the strongest thing but the 180HP my lil V6 is putting out isnt much of a threat to it. especially with the crappy t'case and gear box ratio's nissan put in their rigs. as far as gearing goes im going with 5.38 r&p's until i either change out the t'case or swap in a 4.3 and some other gear.
 
What size tires?

I feel ya on the nissan gear selection. It sucks too because it is quite a beefy rear end. I just swapped some 4.63's from a auto and run 4.56's in the front axle. If I got 35's I'll probably end up swapping a 91+ rear end in and swapping a xterra 3rd member with 4.9's and running 4.88's up front. All ya have to do to do that is swap the side spider gears.

180hp? You have a 60 shot of nitrous on that bitch or what?:haha:
 
What size tires?

I feel ya on the nissan gear selection. It sucks too because it is quite a beefy rear end. I just swapped some 4.63's from a auto and run 4.56's in the front axle. If I got 35's I'll probably end up swapping a 91+ rear end in and swapping a xterra 3rd member with 4.9's and running 4.88's up front. All ya have to do to do that is swap the side spider gears.

I'm shooting for the 35-36"x12.50 range. im running 34x10.50 ltb bias right now with the IFS.

180hp? You have a 60 shot of nitrous on that bitch or what?:haha:

its basically the stock bottom end, the heads are hogged out and port matched and i put together a multi-port injection from parts off about 4 other nissans along with a 60mm TB. i figure if the '87 300zx i got the ecu and injectors from can make 180 stock on the exact same engine and a 55mm TB, i would guess im making around the 180HP. but thats mostly top end, its gutless below 2500RPM
 
I always run my upper link on the passenger side. Avoids exhaust and driveline clearance issues. Now from all my research and just trying to figure out proper link geometry, I personally believe that you get less bind between your pan hard and upper link if they mount on the same side of the axle. Not only that, but like on my setup, you can use the upper control arm axle mount as a pan hard mount as well. As long as its over far enough so that your draglink and pan hard angles and lengths dont clash.
 
I always run my upper link on the passenger side. Avoids exhaust and driveline clearance issues. Now from all my research and just trying to figure out proper link geometry, I personally believe that you get less bind between your pan hard and upper link if they mount on the same side of the axle. Not only that, but like on my setup, you can use the upper control arm axle mount as a pan hard mount as well. As long as its over far enough so that your draglink and pan hard angles and lengths dont clash.

I'll have to draw it up and see if i can use the same bracket. you're in crackima right? one of these days you think you could give me a crash course in solid works? i got a "demo" of SW 10, tried to import a 2d autocad file so i could model it. i gave up after a few hours. i can draw solid models in autocad with out thinking, this solid works **** is backwards to me... unless im missing something.
 
Sounds like you may be refering to a 4 link?...What's important is that the track bar is parallel to the drag link. If I understand your question no it doesn't matter which side.

3-link with pan hard. every picture that ive seen of said setup always has the upper link run on the same side as the differential (drivers side in my case). this causes all kinds of interferences on a Pissan like mine. i'm going to look into a combo mount on the passenger side like Lead foot suggested. but that may make the pan hard too short.
 
too bad you werent close you could come check mine out. remember your building a articulating suspension not an adjustible suspension.
 
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