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Auto trans rebuild questions
- Thread starter shrek1
- Start date
dove'd85
Well-Known Member
i don't know much about auto transmissions, but i do no that you can buy valve bodies with compression braking
if you are looking for a th350 i have one that was rebuilt by daves transmission with a shift kit and less then 20 miles on it iwill sell for dirt cheap, pm me if interested
james
if you are looking for a th350 i have one that was rebuilt by daves transmission with a shift kit and less then 20 miles on it iwill sell for dirt cheap, pm me if interested
james
boardbysled
Tree Nerd.
i would not use a 700r4 because they arn't the best tranny ya can buy with ur money, turbo 400 would do ya great tough as nails an reliable...
Cascade_Crawler
Well-Known Member
You will need a manual valve body if you want a decent off road tranny. You can get a regular or reverse pattern, either will work fine. Not all manual valve bodies have compression braking, most of the drag race VB's will freewheel instead of compression braking. Make sure your getting what you want when you buy, they arnt cheap. Good shifter is also key, there is a cheap hurst one that I got off of summit that works great.
PORTER
Well-Known Member
I would go with the T-350 out of the two you mentioned, tho a 400 would be my top choice. And on the full manual thing, Trans Go makes what they call a stage 3 shift kit that makes the trans a full manual shift with compression braking for about 100 bucks. I have had this kit installed in three of my autos that I have run and it works flawless. Now if you want a reverse pattern you will nees to get a different valvebody to achieve it. If you want a standard shift get the Trans-Go kit as it is about the 1/3 of the price of a manual valve body. Also dont skimp on a shifter, get the Art Carr as they are the best IMO. Good luck.
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PUO-BANNED
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stall speed depends on converter design and engine torque.
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PUO-BANNED
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one that works
pos97TJ
Well-Known Member
Good info, I talked to a buddy of mine that builds trannies for a living and he also suggested running that transgo stage 3 kit. To clarify a bit on the engine braking(correct me if I am wrong) a stock th350 comes with engine braking from the factory the only reason you need to ask for it with the FMVB is because the remove the engine braking and some of the clutches to reduce rotating mass for racing purposes. So it wouldnt be something you would have to add to the standard valve body.
Examples would be helpful:corn:
I think that this was the most helpfull post so far
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PUO-BANNED
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I have some posts in this thread explaining a little bit about torque converters.
http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3915&highlight=Auto+Manual
You need more info than "99 5.7 vortec" you need engine mods, trans and its mods, transfer case gear ratio, axle ratio, tire size, vehicle weight, and inteded use. some shops can build you a custom converter for your application or recommend a off the shelf unit.
http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3915&highlight=Auto+Manual
You need more info than "99 5.7 vortec" you need engine mods, trans and its mods, transfer case gear ratio, axle ratio, tire size, vehicle weight, and inteded use. some shops can build you a custom converter for your application or recommend a off the shelf unit.
pos97TJ
Well-Known Member
I believe his is a stock 99 5.7 vortec with the wiring harness cleaned up, a chip is the computer(not sure which if that matters) and a k&n style filter. He doesn't have the trans yet as this is why he is asking and the t-case will be a dana 300 witha 4.1 kit. His axles have 4.56s also and hes running 40s and he will weigh roughly 3000# and will be used a trail rig lots of steep uphill and downhill so engine braking needs to be good. Any good info is greatly appreciated:awesomework:
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I posted a link to a thread. read it because I'm not typing all that **** again.
like i said, contact the people who built torque converters for a living.
If it was me I would run a TH400, Huges race rebuild kit, 34 element sprag, billet input shaft, repace front drum, low drag planetary (2.75 1st) trans go valvebody kit, and a B&M holeshot 2000 converter or a custom converter.
That would be overkill for that little 5.7 so a Th350 with a good rebuild, VB kit, and a stock converter should be just fine for your friends application.
I like aftermarket or custom converters because event though the stall is higher they are more efficient than a stock converter.
like i said, contact the people who built torque converters for a living.
If it was me I would run a TH400, Huges race rebuild kit, 34 element sprag, billet input shaft, repace front drum, low drag planetary (2.75 1st) trans go valvebody kit, and a B&M holeshot 2000 converter or a custom converter.
That would be overkill for that little 5.7 so a Th350 with a good rebuild, VB kit, and a stock converter should be just fine for your friends application.
I like aftermarket or custom converters because event though the stall is higher they are more efficient than a stock converter.
pos97TJ
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the link, I did read it I understand how it all works:awesomework: I think that the point of shreks thread is that he is building a tranny and wanted to hear what had the best results for other people and why so he could skip having to pull the tranny apart trying different ways to make it hold up and hold the rig back on steep decents. Thanks for the info:awesomework:
junkyard jim
Well-Known Member
Years ago I put a hydraulic pump motor on my rear driveshaft (3 piece type with center carrier) and used a tractor valve to control the braking (this was on my 5 ton 6x6 Nash I used to deliver stuff to Valdez AK in the winters of 77/78)
