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Best source for 7075 links??
- Thread starter kboring
- Start date
pholmann
Well-Known Member
I buy the solid stock I need off of eBay and have them machined. But my dads a machinist so......
MonnlightRacing77
When in Doubt Throttle Out
Heard Wide open Design has decent pricing
pholmann
Well-Known Member
zukimaster
Hold my beer and watch this!
What's really the purpose for running alum links? Is it the weight, strength, or the bling? Just seems like double or triple the cost of what a 2" 2.50 dom link would cost to build. 
patooyee
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- Sep 27, 2008
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zukimaster said:What's really the purpose for running alum links? Is it the weight, strength, or the bling? Just seems like double or triple the cost of what a 2" 2.50 dom link would cost to build.
From the research I've done a solid aluminum link will actually weigh as much or more than the same dia. .375 wall steel. (I don't use .25" wall on anything, it bends too easy IMO.) But the 7075-T6 material has better memory and will return back to "more straight" more times than steel. HOWEVER, a heat-treated Chromo .25" wall link will be stronger than .375" DOM, be lighter than either aluminum or thicker wall DOM, and have as good if not better memory than the aluminum. These are all very general statements.
And since I brought that up, who besides Heretic Fab is in the chromo business?
zukimaster said:What's really the purpose for running alum links? Is it the weight, strength, or the bling? Just seems like double or triple the cost of what a 2" 2.50 dom link would cost to build.
They're supposed to be able bend a little and spring back straight.
Right now my .250 2" square lowers are all bent to ****. I just say they're "high clearance"
pholmann
Well-Known Member
patooyee said:
I generally run an inch over what my heims are. I'm running 2.25" upper and lower on 1.25" heims.
patooyee
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kboring said:
Ideally, yes. But the area affected by the weld is only about an inch or less up the length of the bar from where the weld was made, which is not where the bends ever occur. The middle of the bar that is the spot that normally bends retains its HT characteristics which is really all that matters. That's why Heretic used to sell link kits that came un-welded. (Cutting the bar was an entirely different challenge!)
I had Heretic Fab lower links on the rear of my last buggy and was VERY happy with them. Heretic seems to be out of business now though.
Neal3000
Well-Known Member
He-Man Machine (Traveler on HL)
dieseljeeper
Member
http://www.industrialmetalsales.com/2-1-4-Thru-4_c111.htm cheapest place I have found and shipping was quick
SHAWNEECRAWLER
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Jimmy Penner at EOR had the best price that I could find! Just ordered mine from him a month ago!
kmcminn
Well-Known Member
I have read stories on pirate of people running .120 wall chromolly uppers.
patooyee
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kmcminn said:
Draggbody ran .120 DOM uppers in the rear on his buggy for a long time before one finally gave out. We were all surprised at how long it held up to the BBC. On a lighter buggy with reasonable power I wouldn't hesitate to do .120 chromo uppers at all.
